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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I went to the Honda dealership to order my rod and main bearings today, but the dealership didnt give me a very solid answer on how to select the color of bearings for the rods??

I am installing Eagle rods and they werent sure what to do with them for selecting the bearings?? Do I used the number that is stamped on the OEM rods in conjunction with the letter stamped on the crank for eagles?? Or what?

Thanks
nick
 

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eagles are sized as a #2 honda rod.

but that should be taken with a grain of salt, as they're more like hit-or-miss #2; 50% of the time, they end up more like a #3. (it's one of the pitfalls of a cheap rod)

best thing to do is get them mic'ed by somebody that knows how to use a tenth mic accurately, then pick your own clearances and bearings accordingly. this is aka blueprinting.

otherwise, try sizing them as #2's, buy bearings accordingly, and plastigauge. if they end up a little tight or loose, take them back and get different bearing as necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well from a few engine builders on HT and some other words through here, I think I am just going to go with #3 sizing, the only sh*tty part is that the dealership doesnt return the bearings aftger they are opened and plastiguaged, so....I am going to try out #3's, cross my fingers
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How would that be?? Either way it is a 50/50 shot.....why buy #2's when "most likely" like everyone has said including daboy it will be a #3.

I look at it this way, I can #3's and most likely like everyone says will be the right ones!

Another thing too, they arent cheap! Just about $20 for a rod, which is $80 I am throwing away if I take a gamble with #2's!
 

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try a different dealership then....

first, that'd sadly overpriced for clamshell bearings. second, every other dealship i've worked with will take back bearings that aren't used, minus a 10% restocking fee.

crossing your fingers really isn't the way to go here... when you're talking 12tenths is just as dangerous as 18tenths... when you want 15tenth.... you don't have a lot of room to be hoping with.
 

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The rods should come with the bearings. My eagle rods did. And they should always be miced and machined befor the install. At leas that what my guy says.
 

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my eagles didn't come with bearings... as there's no way for them to know what size to send; every crank is different. i don't know of any rod manufacturer that bundles bearings with their aftermarket pieces.

if i *did* get bundled bearings, i'd be very wary of them.
 

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nicklk on Feb/09/04 said:
How would that be?? Either way it is a 50/50 shot.....why buy #2's when "most likely" like everyone has said including daboy it will be a #3.

I look at it this way, I can #3's and most likely like everyone says will be the right ones!

Another thing too, they arent cheap! Just about $20 for a rod, which is $80 I am throwing away if I take a gamble with #2's!
Berings arn't cheap and neither is a blown motor. You're taking a gamble with just throwing a #2 or a #3 in there. If you're gonna do it, might as well do it right. $80 dollars in the can can quickley turn into $800 to fix a $80 dollar mistake.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am not gambling, no matter what the CORRECT size of bearing is going to go into the motor, I am just trying to save time, by going with the #3's in the first place rather then getting the #2's and it MOST likely will be the #3's. If I get the #3's and they are too tight I will throw them away or just buy the #2's.That isnt a concern haha.

I wish I Could go to another Honda dealership, only thing the next nearest one is 120 miles away, no car, kinda makes it rough. I am going to order the #3 size oriented ones and hopefully I made the right decision. If they dont fit, I will get teh #2's
 

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DaBoyNBlu on Feb/10/04 said:
why not just get everything mic'ed and be positive on the first order?
ditto. bearing size will also change if the journals had to be machined at all. building a motor with aftermarket parts is NEVER an off the shelf deal.
 

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Eagle is open mon-fri, so calling on the weekend is a no go.
I had the same problem with the dealership. I brought all the info on the block stamps, the crank stamps, the old bearings colors etc etc.
I am swapping cranks and only had to correlate the new numbers but the guy at the counter looked at me like I had a third eye.
"No problem," I told him, "I'll just order the Fuel rail studs that I need and call you on monday with the bearing color codes."

My wife started laughing after we left, Apparently I hit him with a barrage of info and He was clueless. Then when I asked him if someone in the shop could use a bore gauge to verify the diameter of the eagle rods he started to sweat.

Yes he literally started sweating and stammering.
 

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When I find out I'll post the info here, but I have a sneaking suspicion about the numbers stamped on the side of my eagles


They are the same width, that's just an optical illusion
 

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Hey look what I found!!
on the old one

FROM ENDYN'S SITE said:
Use Honda bearings oNLY!!! The crank-end of the B16 and H22 rods has been sized for a #2 Honda bearing. All other rods are sized for a #3 Honda bearing.
The rod bearing-to-crankshaft clearance should be 0.0015-0.0017".
The piston pin-to-bushing clearance should be 0.0004-0.0006".
Will update as info is discovered.
 

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when you call endyn, their story changes a bit.

i spoke to larry, and a bit of the truth begins to be uncovered about "you get what you pay for".

he said that about half of their eagle's end up actually being #3... he said the other half are #2's, or somewhere where you have to run split-colors.

it's best to ditch all the numbers and stamps and figure them out yourself. two of mine were #2's, only one was a #3, and one was between, where i had to split colors. this is what it ended up being after mic'ing everything myself. larry ended up being pretty right.

also, the rod bushings tend to run a little tight (also something larry told me). i noticed this myself on 2 of my rods--certain combinations of pins just wouldn't slide well in the bushings. well, you can either just "work" the sticky pin around (the bushings are easy to bend), or just make sure that whatever pin you use with whatever rod slides around well with little lubrication.
 

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The numbers on the side are what's really confusing me. if they are serialized, why wouldn't you get four sequential ones?

Thats why I think it has something to do with the bore size.

The parts department opens tomorrow, I'll give Eagle and Acura a call, in that order.
 
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