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I'm not sure I would trust the T off the block. Safe way to do it would be to mount the T on the engine, firewall, etc and then run a short hose off the block to it. That just doesn't look like it's going to hold up well to vibrations, bumps, etc. Just my .02 but that could be an expensive problem. Hopefully we get to see this thing in action soon!
 

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So much this ^

I've seen them fail catastrophically before. I've also seen one instance where a nice guy didn't finish last because he got his engine turned off before it grenaded.

Either way, brass on a lever like that is bad. I'd also worry about that little steel (?) adapter/extender. That, with all the force from the T and the hoses, looks like a recipe for failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,625
I'm not sure I would trust the T off the block. Safe way to do it would be to mount the T on the engine, firewall, etc and then run a short hose off the block to it. That just doesn't look like it's going to hold up well to vibrations, bumps, etc. Just my .02 but that could be an expensive problem. Hopefully we get to see this thing in action soon!
That could be an option. I might be able to rig up a brace/bracket for the T to rest on so it takes the force off of the mounting location. The only thing running off of the T is just 2 hoses so I dont think the force will be too bad compared to some who mount the sensors right on the T.
 

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The worst grenade I know of was a brass T that had the stock pressure sender and a hose. About or maybe even less force than your 2 hoses. That one also didn't have the extender. I'd keep the brass off of the block. Put an 18" hose in there instead of the silver extender. Be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,627
The worst grenade I know of was a brass T that had the stock pressure sender and a hose. About or maybe even less force than your 2 hoses. That one also didn't have the extender. I'd keep the brass off of the block. Put an 18" hose in there instead of the silver extender. Be safe.
I guess ill have to do some research on the hose then. Maybe I can use the hose I already have and move it in between the block and T. Then I can just put the sender directly into the T.
 

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I guess ill have to do some research on the hose then. Maybe I can use the hose I already have and move it in between the block and T. Then I can just put the sender directly into the T.
That's exactly what I would do. Maybe buy/make a L bracket to zip tie (or bolt somehow) the sender and T to.
 

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So I moved the oil lines/fittings around so now the T will be off of the hose. I had to order a new 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapter because when I removed it from the block some of the threads were stripped. Not sure how that happened but the threads in the block are still fine. I think it was just the cheap material the adapter was made out of.

Other than that I ordered some more parts:
*Intake manifold coolant hose, injector o-rings, and injector seals (Honda).
*15ft of -8AN braided line, 2 straight -8AN fittings, and 2 90* -8AN to 1/2NPT fittings so my oil cooler setup will be complete (SummitRacing)
*3in Vband flange and clamp set for my downpipe to exhaust (eBay)
 

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Discussion Starter #1,631
Last night I removed the old factory clutch line which was more work than I thought it would be. Didnt realize how many brackets, lines and connections were involved in the clutch line. Ended up just undoing the line from the clutch master and following and cutting the line all the way to the slave. The new braided line I bought from Luck4rmkc was much easier to install lol.

Junk


New line installed. Sorry for the bad pics lol.



Also received my oil cooler line hardware from Summit Racing just now.
 

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I just publicly wanted to welcome Justin to the moderator crew of the site..... he's a valuable resource around here


.
 

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I just publicly wanted to welcome Justin to the moderator crew of the site..... he's a valuable resource around here.
Thanks Steve! Glad to be a part of the T-I team!

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Received my 3in Vband flange setup for my exhaust today.


Tomorrow I will be receiving the adapter fitting for the oil line so I can finally button up the motor. Gotta hurry up and get the motor in soon so I can snap a pic for the T-I calendar :biggrin:
 

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Well put in some work on the teg this weekend. Ended up dropping the motor in and began installing the turbo parts.
New Competition Clutch stage 4 disc


Pressure plate


My new technique on installing the tranny. Took a whole 20 seconds to line up the tranny. Just slid right on.


Dropped the motor in. My oil adapter line fitting didnt come in so I decided to leave the intake manifold off so I can install it easily once it comes in.

While I had the motor out I decided to delete the rear wiper sprayer line and tuck the windshield wiper sprayer line.


Motor in and beginning to install turbo parts.

 

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Discussion Starter #1,636
Did some more work tonight. Ran and connected the oil cooler lines, installed oil extension line, T fitting with oil pressure sender/turbo feed line, mounted boost solenoid and ran vacuum lines for the boost solenoid. I need to pick up some larger barbed fittings for the solenoid to be able to use the 6mm lines as recommended by Tial.

Didnt get pics of everything but Ill get some more this weekend.





Also received my heat wrap for wrapping the lower portion of the downpipe since it sits pretty close to the oil pan.



Other stuff I got
Intake manifold coolant hose


Injector seals



Last but not least I ordered my Hondata S300 V3 from Phearable.net preinstalled in a P28 with boost control, and a free basemap.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,639
Spent some more time on the teg last night and today. I dont have much time to update this (going out to dinner in a few. Will update tomorrow) but I ran into an issue with the RC 750cc (SH4-750) injectors. For some reason my injector clips dont fit in them. I have OBD1 clips (also tried OBD2 style) and neither fit. I am guessing I might need to purchase some RC pigtails? Anyone else have this issue?
 
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