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I used compressed air from a leak down tester when I did my valve springs and seals on my last motor. And yes the euro export tool makes it a breeze!

I have thought about an alternate way to do this without shop air. I feel like if you had the piston at TDC it would not let the valve drop to far when installing the seal. Once the seal is back on it does hold the valve pretty solid in whatever position you have the valve in.

The only thing I foresee being a bit of a pain without shop air is installing the springs back on and the keepers. When you compress the spring it is very easy to push the top of the valve down with the tool if you don't get it just right. If you did this with no air pushing the valve back up into the seat you would have to remove the entire spring compressor setup and reach in and physically pull the valve back up against the seat everytime you made a slight error.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,246
Sorry for the delay guys I will respond to the above messages later on just have a busy day and would like to get the car back up before I have to do some Mothers day stuff. Ran into an issue with one of my bolts snapping while torquing down the cam caps. Not sure how it happened since I tightened down all the 12mm bolts finger tight, then to 5lbs in the correct torque sequence then was going back and tightening them to a final 20lbs then on the 3rd one it just snapped before getting it very far in there.

Already got the rest of the bolt out. About to go wait outside Honda until they open and get the replacement bolt. Fun times
 

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Alright so the teg is back on the road. Took a couple short drives since getting it back on the road havent seen any smoke, drives fine but the real test will be later tonight when I pull the plugs and see how much oil is down there.

So the method I used for replacing the seals with the head on I read about on Honda Tech. What you do is:
*Rotate the crank so that the cylinder you are working on is somewhat down
*Grab some rope then proceed to drop it down the spark plug hole
*Once you have a decent amount of rope in the cylinder (I used about 12-16 inches) you can rotate the crank until the piston comes up and stops
*Once the piston stops the rope will be pressing against the backside of the valves which will allow you to begin working on the valves without worrying about them dropping against the piston
*Once you are done with that cylinder you rotate the crank the opposite direction then pull the rope out and move to the next cylinder. Its somewhat ghetto but it works lol.

Pics of the install didnt come out very well, used my girlfriends camera since its smaller and easier to use then mine. Nothing fun about flipping through menus and adjusting everything while your hands are covered in oil lol.

The head with cams removed and rockers loosely ziptied back out of the way.


One of the valves with the valve spring removed


Euro Export valve spring compressor in action


One of the old seals (left) and a new one (right)


Messy work bench


Attempting to take pics of some of the old seals




I do highly recommend the Euro Export valve spring compressor tool. It may not be as fast as one of the cylinder style compressor tools but is much easier to use. It fits perfectly on the top of the head and everything lines up just right when it comes time to pressing down the retainers. The amount of work needed to press down on the valve spring is very minimal. I was able to do most of them by hand with just an oily socket on the bolt. The hardest part was just putting the keepers back in place but with the round cup that comes in the kit you dont have to worry much about dropping the keeper. I plan on buying my own next time I have to do any work on the head. The tool is decently priced at $80 last time I checked.

Hers a pic I found online that shows how the tool is setup
 

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awesome. well since i plan to do springs now and lmas at some point in the future i guess ill buy one myself and throw it on AST for the downtime. love the rope trick. most likely will go the same route myself.

heres hoping there no new oil in the cylinders when you check!
 

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Nice job! I might end up doing the rope trick to change my springs retainers

Hope this fixed the oil in the cylinder situation for you!

Did you end up using the mallet and socket to break them loose or was the rope and the EuroX enough?
 

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Did you end up using the mallet and socket to break them loose or was the rope and the EuroX enough?
Yeah like Paul had said I went through and gave each retainer a couple light taps with a hammer and 12mm socket to loosen them up a little then I just used the tool for the rest.

Thanks again! :beer:Ill send the tool back your way probably Monday as long as I can make it to the post office before they close.
 

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Been putting miles on the teg this weekend after replacing the stem seals so I decided to pull the plugs and check out the pistons. Looks great so far! The excess oil I had on the pistons appears to be drying out so it looks like the stem seals were the problem. I will check on them in a couple weeks and see how they look but for now I think im good. Since I had the spark plugs out I went ahead and did a compression test and had 170 across the board so the numbers are improving. I have a total of 291 miles on the rebuild now and things are looking good! :biggrin:

Plasti-dip will be here Tuesday so it looks like next weekend the teg will be rocking some new colored shoes.
 

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I drive a green integra and I approve of this color. Haha. I like it

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Thanks!

So I got them mounted. Im letting the center caps dry overnight until I press them in. This color is really hard to capture correctly on camera.



 
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