Ugh.... I feel your pain! Sorry man! Hope you can figure it out soon.I think I found the problem. A beer would definitely help lol. Ill PM you the address.
So I just got in from doing the compression test. The car was warmed up and I did the test after driving for a good 30 mins or so but heres the results:
4 - 180
3 - 180
2 - 150
1 - 235
4 - 270
3 - 260
2 - 235
1 - 300+(maxed out the gauge)
Is it safe to say that I will need to tear the motor apart?
Me too! Ive only got maybe 8k miles on this rebuilt motorUgh.... I feel your pain! Sorry man! Hope you can figure it out soon.
I guess it could. I think the power issue was a combination of this, plus when I got it tuned I didnt have a intake tube which was causing a large amount of turbulence in the air getting sucked in at that high of RPM's. The plan is to pull the head maybe next weekend and see how the head gasket looks. I am really hoping that the issue is just the head gasket but wont really know until that happens.Just curious, I remember asking you about what you revved to and you said it quit making power around 8600, but I feel like an R motor with cams should be going wild above nine. Would this have contributed to it falling off up top or am I way off?
Word, that makes sense. I figured with the victor x intake you were shooting for more top end. That manifold is crazy in person lolit really really depends on the cams. a lot of cams just increase the mid and top range power levels without going about the 8.5-9k range. the intake manifold and setup is going to determine a lot about that as well. if youre making a ton of power at 9k+ id bet it drives like **** until about 5k. not ideal for a daily to push your powerband up that far. ideally you eant a strong mid rang and top end with a liveable lowe end (given were 1.8s)
I didnt see any scarring on the 2 cylinders I checked but I havent rotated the motor to check the other 2. Still set a TDC.Is there any scaring to any of the cylinder walls??I don't understand the copper spray I cant imagine that does any good. Definitely had a breach is sealing between the head and block with all that oil present.Who assembled the motor your buddy or rich??
I will definitely be re-torquing the studs this time around. Might give me some motivation to just get my s2 pro2s at the same time :biggrin:ARP studs are supposed to be "re-torqued" (checked) after the first 500 miles of use. Some people do it, others don't, with mixed results. Sounds like you might have backed off a little judging by everything being "wet" with oil. I posted about this when I did my head swap and basically figured the "re-torque" was BS and over precautionary. BUT, I did re-check mine at 500 miles and they were fine.
You should really drain the block of the coolant before doing this (plug on front of the block behind header), lessens chance of oil and water mixing.
But there is definitely oil on that HG which is no good (as someone already said). And I would say no copper spray as well, its unnecessary.