Team Integra Forums banner

781 - 800 of 2483 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
I think I found the problem. A beer would definitely help lol. Ill PM you the address.

******************************
So I just got in from doing the compression test. The car was warmed up and I did the test after driving for a good 30 mins or so but heres the results:

Dry
4 - 180
3 - 180
2 - 150
1 - 235

Wet
4 - 270
3 - 260
2 - 235
1 - 300+(maxed out the gauge)

:thumbs_down:
Is it safe to say that I will need to tear the motor apart?
Ugh.... I feel your pain! Sorry man! Hope you can figure it out soon.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #783
Ugh.... I feel your pain! Sorry man! Hope you can figure it out soon.
Me too! Ive only got maybe 8k miles on this rebuilt motor :rolleyes:

*****************
So Paul AKA 95_TeggyRS came over and we took a look at the motor. It looks like theres quite a bit of oil leaking around the headgasket right above the block.

A bad head gasket would cause low compression numbers correct? The oil doesnt look milky and the coolant looks clean and has been at the same level since I put the motor in. Hoping for something simple like a head gasket over the idea of rings or block issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,783 Posts
yeah, a bad HG will definitely eff' up some comp numbers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
There was a substantial amount of oil seeping from the HG, He definitely has a valve cover gasket leak which at first is what I thought was leaking down but after further investigation it is seeping from the front left corner below the dizzy all the way over to the back drivers side. I would definitely pull the head an check it all out man.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
Just curious, I remember asking you about what you revved to and you said it quit making power around 8600, but I feel like an R motor with cams should be going wild above nine. Would this have contributed to it falling off up top or am I way off?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #787
Just curious, I remember asking you about what you revved to and you said it quit making power around 8600, but I feel like an R motor with cams should be going wild above nine. Would this have contributed to it falling off up top or am I way off?
I guess it could. I think the power issue was a combination of this, plus when I got it tuned I didnt have a intake tube which was causing a large amount of turbulence in the air getting sucked in at that high of RPM's. The plan is to pull the head maybe next weekend and see how the head gasket looks. I am really hoping that the issue is just the head gasket but wont really know until that happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,783 Posts
it really really depends on the cams. a lot of cams just increase the mid and top range power levels without going about the 8.5-9k range. the intake manifold and setup is going to determine a lot about that as well. if youre making a ton of power at 9k+ id bet it drives like **** until about 5k. not ideal for a daily to push your powerband up that far. ideally you eant a strong mid rang and top end with a liveable lowe end (given were 1.8s)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
it really really depends on the cams. a lot of cams just increase the mid and top range power levels without going about the 8.5-9k range. the intake manifold and setup is going to determine a lot about that as well. if youre making a ton of power at 9k+ id bet it drives like **** until about 5k. not ideal for a daily to push your powerband up that far. ideally you eant a strong mid rang and top end with a liveable lowe end (given were 1.8s)
Word, that makes sense. I figured with the victor x intake you were shooting for more top end. That manifold is crazy in person lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #792
So I got around to pulling the head today. Found a few things that could be an issue.

Drain plug for my radiator. Not sure what the stuff on the plug is but looks to be about the same color as the copper spray used on the gasket?


Head gasket:







Valves:






Block:



When I was loosening the head stud nuts and they didnt feel like they were at 80lbs. Has anyone ever had an issue with ARP head nuts backing out? Unless they werent torqued correctly when they were installed. Im not a fan of the copper sprayed head gasket not sure if that caused an issue or what but when I install the new one copper spray wont be going on it.

There also seems to be a bit of oil in cylinder 1. Not sure if it leaked down when I pulled up the head or just a little too much oil when doing the wet compression test.

I will be ordering a new OEM head gasket tonight.



Almost time for the game! :beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Is there any scaring to any of the cylinder walls??I don't understand the copper spray I cant imagine that does any good. Definitely had a breach is sealing between the head and block with all that oil present.Who assembled the motor your buddy or rich??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #794
Is there any scaring to any of the cylinder walls??I don't understand the copper spray I cant imagine that does any good. Definitely had a breach is sealing between the head and block with all that oil present.Who assembled the motor your buddy or rich??
I didnt see any scarring on the 2 cylinders I checked but I havent rotated the motor to check the other 2. Still set a TDC.

Im not sure of the copper spray either. My thought is that if there was an advantage Honda would have done it to the head gasket from the factory.

Rich built the block but I think my buddy put the rest together. On a good note I did verify that I do in fact have CTR cams :wink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
That's good to know, the spray helps seal the HG after doing a little reading and asking around. I'm wondering if it was the fact that the head was not properly torqued to spec which left it possible for leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,522 Posts
ARP studs are supposed to be "re-torqued" (checked) after the first 500 miles of use. Some people do it, others don't, with mixed results. Sounds like you might have backed off a little judging by everything being "wet" with oil. I posted about this when I did my head swap and basically figured the "re-torque" was BS and over precautionary. BUT, I did re-check mine at 500 miles and they were fine.

You should really drain the block of the coolant before doing this (plug on front of the block behind header), lessens chance of oil and water mixing.

But there is definitely oil on that HG which is no good (as someone already said). And I would say no copper spray as well, its unnecessary.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #800
ARP studs are supposed to be "re-torqued" (checked) after the first 500 miles of use. Some people do it, others don't, with mixed results. Sounds like you might have backed off a little judging by everything being "wet" with oil. I posted about this when I did my head swap and basically figured the "re-torque" was BS and over precautionary. BUT, I did re-check mine at 500 miles and they were fine.

You should really drain the block of the coolant before doing this (plug on front of the block behind header), lessens chance of oil and water mixing.

But there is definitely oil on that HG which is no good (as someone already said). And I would say no copper spray as well, its unnecessary.
I will definitely be re-torquing the studs this time around. Might give me some motivation to just get my s2 pro2s at the same time :biggrin:
 
781 - 800 of 2483 Posts
Top