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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i jus got a megan racing testpipe for a 98 integra and it dindt come wit a o2 sensor plug so is it a good idea to make a plug for it meaning i hav to drill a hole??? anyone hav the same promblem with a testpipe??
 

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yeah it's pretty common..not much of a point though because you're just going to throw a CEL anyway because the sensor won't like what it sees.

also if it's stainless, that's kind of hard to weld. might rust down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yeah its stainless steal damm its gonna rust...well im goin to get that thing that tricks the o2 senssor so ya...but is it normal for the testpipe to be too short to??
 

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you can always get a custom test pipe.. they're very cheap and very customizable.. and psst.. lots of people on this forum don't like test pipes.. so find out your info and end this thread quick.. heheheh.. =)
 

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an inch and a half sounds like a big difference. are you including the donut gasket. i've noticed a few times on here that people have forgot to nstall that. If you did install the donut gasket and its still an inch and half, i'd say you have the wrong one. it's not a big deal as test pipes are easily made and customized like mentioned above. if you know anybody that knows how to weld, not just little spot welds...it takes like 5-15 minutes, stainless or not. good luck.

edit*
also as mentioned above, test pipe isn't really what you would need/want. especially if it's a NA car. if you try a search, MD has posted a dyno graph several times showing that a high-flow cat provided more hp while the test pipe actualy showed a loss on a NA car...if i remember correctly.
 

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You can drill a hole, but you will still need to weld it as someone said before. So unless you have welding experience and a welder, I'd leave it to a muffler shop to do it for you.
 

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edit*
also as mentioned above, test pipe isn't really what you would need/want. especially if it's a NA car. if you try a search, MD has posted a dyno graph several times showing that a high-flow cat provided more hp while the test pipe actualy showed a loss on a NA car...if i remember correctly.
as someone who uses test pipe (i really dont care if you flame me, its what i like), i will say a few things:

i had test pipe installed and threw *no* CEL. i have no cat either, and i still throw no CEL

a test pipe = free flowing = small gain when compared to an 'exhaust system'. i believe MD said youll get a +2 hp gain if you use test pipe vs an exhaust system.

if you get test pipe, hollow out your cat and leave your resonator on. the sound is LOUD w/ no cat or resonator.

also consider investing in a silencer.

one last thing:

performance cats vs normal cats? both are free flowing. ALL of my mechanics and 210 performance have said the same thing. buying a 'performance' cat is a waste of money. get OEM, as all cats nowadays are free-flowing.
 

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satx-94integra on Jan/27/06 said:
Quote: edit* also as mentioned above, test pipe isn't really what you would need/want. especially if it's a NA car. if you try a search, MD has posted a dyno graph several times showing that a high-flow cat provided more hp while the test pipe actualy showed a loss on a NA car...if i remember correctly.


as someone who uses test pipe (i really dont care if you flame me, its what i like), i will say a few things:

i had test pipe installed and threw *no* CEL. i have no cat either, and i still throw no CEL

a test pipe = free flowing = small gain when compared to an 'exhaust system'. i believe MD said youll get a +2 hp gain if you use test pipe vs an exhaust system.

if you get test pipe, hollow out your cat and leave your resonator on. the sound is LOUD w/ no cat or resonator.

also consider investing in a silencer.

one last thing:

performance cats vs normal cats? both are free flowing. ALL of my mechanics and 210 performance have said the same thing. buying a 'performance' cat is a waste of money. get OEM, as all cats nowadays are free-flowing.
Wow...with all that incorrect information, please refrain from posting anymore.
 

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I hate misconstrued arguments.

You might get more HP buy not having a cat, but is it going to make you faster? There's too many variables here. I've seen NA cars go faster without a cat, and I've also seen them go slower as well. Depending on how it is done, and many other variables there is no promise that the car makes more horsepower in a useable range. Most straight pipe honda's I've seen haven't made more useable horsepower, only peak and such a small window the car tooka while to rev back up running through the gears. Every car and setup is different, and having a pipe that is tapered to help air velocity is different the having a huge step after the air leaves the exhaust manifold and changes to a much larger diameter pipe instantly.

Other then that I'm not sure where you can get an o2 sensor bung alone, but on google a search yeilded about 50 results or so that looked promising to find one you can have installed, (drill a whole and weld it.)

Not that anyone cares for an opinion, but I think you can go cleaner for the planet with a cat in this setup, but the only reason I don't believe ina cat on a turbo, is well they burn so much hotter tehn a NA car.

That's antoehr argument, good luck buying an o2 bung.

Do yourself a favor spend the 50 -100 to dyno it beofre and after race pipe install. Many people here will tell you which plot is faster. The resources to learn are on this site as well.
 

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satx-94integra on Jan/27/06 said:
i had test pipe installed and threw *no* CEL. i have no cat either, and i still throw no CEL


uhhh, you're OBD1. There's no second back sensor after the cat to throw the CEL.

The CEL deal with testpipes has to do with OBD2 people guy...

you only have 1 O2 sensor. The primary one doesn't do the CEL checking...it's the one that runs the ECU for closed loop.

The back secondary O2 sensor in OBD2 which you don't have, is the one that compares the O2 content to the primary sensor and throws the code if the difference exceeds a certain voltage value .


secondly, if you want to pop in an O2 sensor onto a testpipe for OBD2 without leaks then I suggest you get an O2 bung and weld it in. Use anti-seize on the threads only (careful) or you'll have fun trying to remove the sensor later on without damaging it.
 
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