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I'm wanting to do this with legend/nsx calipers but the discard thicknesses are making me a little nervous. The minicooper rotor starts at 22mm with a discard of 20mm (approx.) while the legend's original rotor, starts at 28mm with a discard of 26mm. So with a new mini rotor the calipers are already pushed out 4mm further than they would be on legend rotors that are at the discard thickness, and 6mm further than they would be on a new rotor (thats quite a bit in the brake thickness world). Anyone had any problems with this? Im I just gunna have to toss my pads sooner than I normally would and mic the rotors religiously? Any body had premature warpage problems due to a large caliper on a thinner rotor than its meant for?
 

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Ok so then for the front ITR calipers u can use the mini cooper rotors and for the rear ITR calipers u can use 04 rear civic rotors as a bolt on?
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
23T is ideal but it should come with it. The rotors are 22mm thick and the 23t means the spacing is for a 23mm rotor. So the piston wont be overextended very much if at all when the pads are near there end.

If you get a 25t Bracket you'll have an issue with that I think
 

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Okay guys, I NEED HELP!!

I installed everything in today. I used the legend 2 piston calipers, 23T brackets, and the 11" cooper rotors. I bled the front brakes and I still have a super spongy pedal that reaches to the floor.

When the car is off, I am able to press the pedal until it firms up a bit but if I stop and re-pump it, it goes to the floor again. Also, I notice an "push of air" sound like a leak near my intake box (possibly the ABS unit) on the very first pump on the pedal.

I tried to think of something that can be causing this problem but I can't so I googled it and found out that L & R caliper are suppose to be swapped around so the bleeder valve is suppose to be on the top rather than the bottom. I didn't know that so I will try to fix this tomorrow morning, give it another bleed, and see how it goes.

If it still doesn't work properly can someone pitch in any ideas it may be?
 

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Yea the master cylinder is original I believe. I'm going to swap the calipers around and rebleed all four of them first and see if it works. Can someone explain why I have a "hissing" sound by the intake box on the very first pump though? The pedal would slowly get firm after several pumps but then softens and reaches the floor again.
 

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Yea the master cylinder is original I believe. I'm going to swap the calipers around and rebleed all four of them first and see if it works. Can someone explain why I have a "hissing" sound by the intake box on the very first pump though? The pedal would slowly get firm after several pumps but then softens and reaches the floor again.
That's the brake booster doing its job. When you pump it you're running out of vacuum in the booster and the brakes get harder to push.

Dont bother swapping the calipers. Put your bleeder hose on the first caliper in the correct bleeding sequence, crack open the bleeder, top off the reservoir and have a beer and wait. With the bleeder facing UP gravity will slowly push all air out. You've still got air in there. Brakes are a PITA.
Repeat on the other 3 in the correct bleeding sequence. This is a gravity bleed and will get all the air out, it just takes a bit of time.
 

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That's the brake booster doing its job. When you pump it you're running out of vacuum in the booster and the brakes get harder to push.

Dont bother swapping the calipers. Put your bleeder hose on the first caliper in the correct bleeding sequence, crack open the bleeder, top off the reservoir and have a beer and wait. With the bleeder facing UP gravity will slowly push all air out. You've still got air in there. Brakes are a PITA.
Repeat on the other 3 in the correct bleeding sequence. This is a gravity bleed and will get all the air out, it just takes a bit of time.

Today I swapped the left caliper to right and right caliper to left. Now that I have the bleeder valve at the top of the caliper, I bleeded all four calipers.

On the first bleed (of the entire cycle)...the first and second bleed of each caliper would have some air and then the third to fifth bleed of each caliper I would have a mainstream of clean fluid coming out (no bubbles) so I end the bleed. I take my car around for a spin, same issue and the pedal is still not as I thought it would be. Next I did a second bleed (again, of the entire cycle). Same thing happens, first couple bleed would have air and then there would be no more air. The pedal is a little firmer as before but not what I expected it to be.

Throughout the bleed process I noticed I hear a little whine sound from the master cylinder when the bleeder valve is open (so when the pedal goes toward the floor). As soon as the bleeder valve is closed, the noise goes away. Is this normal?

And I don't quite get what you're saying. So I attach a hose to the bleeder valve, just let it run, close the bleed valve, then top off the brake fluid (repeat process in correct bleed order)? Are you saying i don't even pump the pedal? lol.

Or...should I try rebleeding again to see if my pedal gets any firmer? I just feel like my pedal isn't suppose to be where it's suppose to be. How is it suppose to feel with upgrade calipers? The pedal is quite sensitive, but its like a spongy-sensitive...if you know what I mean.
 

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Are you saying i don't even pump the pedal? lol.

Also, throughout the bleed process I noticed I hear a little whine sound from the master cylinder when the bleeder valve is open (so when the pedal goes toward the floor). As soon as the bleeder valve is closed, the noise goes away. Is this normal?
1. Yes that's exactly what I'm saying.
2. Yes, that's normal. It's the sound the fluid makes when running out the master cylinder.

You can gravity bleed all four at once as well, just watch the reservoir and make sure it doesn't drain low.
 

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Wouldn't that take forever to be done though since brake fluid comes out AS the pedal is pressed down? What exactly is gravity bleeding? And what do you mean having the bleeder valve facing up? Like it being at the top side of the caliper or unbolt the caliper and have the valve Facing at 12 o clock?
 

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it does not take that long. and gravity bleeding works because the brake fluid reservoir is higher up than the bleeders, therefore forcing the fluid thru the lines. Also, when the bleeders face up, it is MUCH easier to get air out of the system.

Itll work. Trust me.

Just dont let the reservoir go empty, or else youll have to start all over again at the Right rear caliper
 

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Wouldn't that take forever to be done though since brake fluid comes out AS the pedal is pressed down? What exactly is gravity bleeding? And what do you mean having the bleeder valve facing up? Like it being at the top side of the caliper or unbolt the caliper and have the valve Facing at 12 o clock?
Take forever? Not forever, but longer yes. Gravity bleeding uses the fact that the reservoir is higher to let gravity push the fluid through the system.

The bleeders MUST be facing UP or you'll never get air out of the calipers! So if you mount legend calipers "correctly" for the piston orientation you cant bleed them on the rotor since the bleeders would be facing down. You have to bleed them flipped upside down so the bleeders are facing the right direction. You can use blocks of wood and pedal presses or let gravity do the work to get all the air out. Either way, the calipers bleeders must be facing UP (1 or 2 oclock) to get air out of the system.

 
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