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Thanks to everyone here. After fifty years of reading I finished this whole thread. Going to install the big brake kit in the front and leave the back stock. Have all the parts ready and will have a shop install for me soon and come back with some feedback.

Fronts
Type R Napa Eclipse Calipers (their eclipse line is already powder coated black)
Mini Cooper 280mm Centric Premium front rotors (the hub and outer surface are coated black from factory)
TSX HPS Brake Pads HB366F.681

Rears
LS Napa Eclipse Calipers
LS Centric Premium rear rotors 120.4007
LS PowerStop z23 Evolotion Brake Pads

All four new rubber brake lines made by Centric - I don't mind the some spongy stock feel. I've driven cars with extremely sensitive brake pedals (Newer Nissan Altima) and it was driving me insane I kept braking abruptly. Reading that it's even more sensitive using stainless brake lines.

Since I'm already doing all this should I just buy the wheel bearings for the rears? I did the fronts last year. Also I have a scraping noise in the fronts that I'm completely guessing is from something stuck in the brake system/dust shield. I don't need to be holding the brakes for the rhytmic scraping to happen. Just driving straight or turning at certain angles gets it going. The faster I drive, the faster the scraping sound happens. At a certain point in the cycle the scraping sound happens but I haven't had it checked out and have no place to pull the wheels off to see for myself.

And on top of all that my relatively new rota r specs are oxidating where the tires are mounted and slowly lose air pressure so I need to look at buying new wheels :l
 

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I am planning to use the Acura RSX type S Calipers, pads and Rotors (redrilled to 4x100) on an Civic Si that I am building.

I have a 1" brake master cylinder, can any one chime in on the appropriate size MC.
The Canadian Civic Si did not come with rear disc brakes but it does have a 15/16 MC.

Just looking for confirmation of the 1" MC.

Thanks.
 

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1,201 Posts
I just swapped wheels from te37 15x7 to stock LS mesh wheels and the caliper brackets are hitting every so slightly on both wheels... Is this normal? should I file away some of the bracket or just add a 1-2mm spacer/washer?
You can do either. A grinder or even dremel with the right wheel can grind the bracket down or you can get a 3mm spacer and be done.
 

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been reading but not yet seen anyone post a thing about the proparts website the kit they sell is one a good price but two says it comes with rsx calipers and need to be installed upside down for fitment so i assume it should be a bolt on but any one know more about how well it would do compared to the type r ?
 

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You won't find anywhere selling Type R rear calipers. I tried Pro Parts and 3 different eBay sellers but they all came with the wrong calipers because people had turned in the wrong cores (most likely on purpose since they were too cheap to pay retail). I ended up just getting the Wilwood rears.
 

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So I'm looking at the Proparts site for rear brake lines, and read in this thread about ordering ITR lines so you get the extra inch.

On the ProParts site the Stoptech rear lines for a 94 LS and a 97 ITR have the same part number?
 

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so jeff what your saying is that they should bolt right up only trouble is bleeding it the first time around holding it in the air with fluid in and press on the piston to push out air?
Exactly. The bleeder screw has to be at the highest point on the caliper meaning you have to swivel it so the screw is facing up.

I noticed slightly better pedal feel with the rsx calipers but it wasnt worth the trouble
 

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Awesome write up here guys. One of my rear calipers decided it was going to hang up on me so I have decided to go for the big brake upgrade. I was able to find ITR rear calipers for $70 plus a $30 core charge and that seems like it will be worth it so i have proper bleeder screw placement. My only question is will the GS mounting bracket work with the ITR caliper or will i need to get the ITR bracket with it? The ones i found come with the brackets but if i can save a couple $$$ then I will see if i can find them without. Here is the cite I found the calipers if anyone is interested:

Parts - TheAutoPartsShop

Parts - TheAutoPartsShop
 

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So I attempted to do this upgrade and I have some issues. Is the rotor suppose to wobble when spinning it? Mine wobbles and pushes the pads to the side while the caliper is on. Was I suppose to use the ITR caliper hardware (except the pad spring) because whenever the rotor spins, it wobbles dangerously close to the retainer clips. Whenever I brake, it makes a strange noise from the passenger side-it stops whenever I squeeze the brakes harder. The drivers side doesn't make that noise? Would an uneven ride height cause that? Thanks for the input.
 

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No, it's not supposed to wobble and it's not supposed to rub or make strange noises either.

You're supposed to use all the ITR caliper hardware (bracket, bolts, caliper)

Time to redo the installation
 

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I have a 2000 LS with 240k+ miles on it. Purchased it in October 2014 with some documents of maintence done. I don't have anywork done on brakes that I see. They have been good to me since then. Also I have LS mesh with Yokohama YK580 195/55/15

Now currently looking into some new brakes/pads for the rear as they are on nearing EOL. Fronts have about 40% life left if I remember correctly. I'm going to have a mechanic do this for me as I moved in March to an apartment complex and they do not allow for such work to be done. Would it be more beneficial for me to do fronts and rears at the same time?

Thank you!
 

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Sounds like your car is just a daily driver, so just replace the pads all the way around, it literally takes 45 mins and would cost about $40 (if you are near an Advanced Auto and can use coupon code TRT30)
 
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