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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any tips on replacing the distributor? Is it hard? I know the cap is easy but what about the rotor and stuff?? Anything else I should do to it when I replace all that stuff?
 

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actually theres a new article on how to do that BUT its for a gen 3, it should give you a good idea though
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is there really a diff between a 3rd gen and 2nd gen b18a1??
 

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the distributor assy. comes out after taking off three easy to reach bolts. when you pull it out try to mark the angle it is at, so your timing won't be too far off when you put it back in.
 

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I CHANGED THE WHOLE DISTRIBUTER, ROTOR, CAP, PLUGS, AND WIRES A FEW WEEKS AGO oN MY 92 LS AND IT oNLY TOOK MY LIKE 1/2 HOUR. SO YOU SHOULD HAVE NO PROB, IF YOU KINDA KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOIN' IT'S NOT A BAD DEAL AT ALL.
GOOD LUCK BRO JUST REM. THAT WHEN YOU TIGHTEN DOWN YOUR NEW CAP TO GO EASY oN IT OR YOU MAY CRACK IT. AND DoN'T FORGET TO REPLACE THE GASKET
 

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Quote: durb69 on Aug/22/02JUST REM. THAT WHEN YOU TIGHTEN DOWN YOUR NEW CAP TO GO EASY oN IT OR YOU MAY CRACK IT.[/QUOTE] Ditto, but for the bolt in my case. I tightened it too
much (don't know my own strength), and broke the bolt.
I had to unscrew it from the other end and put in a new
bolt. Be easy with it.

oh, here's that post
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the tips, I'll be workin on it today. Back in the day when I had my Karmannghia they had distributor caps that were clear and you could see the rotor and stuff moving inside. Might be cheesy to everyone but I gotta ask, would anyone get something like that for dressup?
 

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if you like it get it.
 

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i think it would be kinda neat as only as its really clear to see the movin parts. could you see it spark or anything. dunno if you can see that but if you can then at night that would look awesome
 

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I have trouble removing the screw from so I can get the rotor off does anyone have any ideas on how to get it off? And where is the article on it I couldnt find it?
 

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Jacksont001 on Aug/22/02 said:
the distributor assy. comes out after taking off three easy to reach bolts. when you pull it out try to mark the angle it is at, so your timing won't be too far off when you put it back in.
You don't need to remove the whole distributor to replace the cap and rotor. :)
 

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I know that, but he asked 'bout the distributor first, then the cap and rotor.
 

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Tuk,
Be very careful. If you are not then you will strip that screw. When I replaced my rotor, I went to the hardware store and got a hex screw to replace it. That way it will be harder to strip. It worked like a charm. Just make sure you get an automotive grade screw. As for getting the existing one off...press really really hard and turn. My friend stripped his screw and he had to take a dremel tool and cut the rotor off so he could get a pair of vice grips on the screw in order to get it off. Good luck!
 

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Thanks man but i am a little late on that i just have to get a hold of a dremmel in other words I heard that you can cut a slit in it and use a flat head screw driver to do it i think i am going to have to pay someone to do it unless there is anyone in my area on team integra that would like to help me out i live in largo fl
 

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Yeah not to hard just watch out for the timming bolt adjustment.. you dont want to set that off and forget where it was last positioned.. or can result in a messed up engine. =P
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had a problem with getting the dang screws off and didn't have time to get it done before work, so I am going to have to try again tomorrow. Friggen guy at the autoparts store gave me the wrong ignition coil and now I have to go get that tomorrow too. 75 bucks. Those dang rotor screws are a pain in the ass, gotta get a new rotor now. I'll have my buddies help me. I haven't seen anyone with a clear distributor cap on an import. They used to have it on a lot of old VW stuff. I don't think they lit up at night either.
 

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Hey I have a red APR clear distributor cap. You can't really see your sparks unless you have the lights off. I guess if you have the yellow clear one it would show more. They have brass contacts and for some reason mine corroded and the center button wore down in two months. I've been through two of them so far but want another one. I sealed the second one with silicon paste around the gasket and wiped a really thin layer on the whole distributor cap. The contacts still corroded but just a little. The next one I get will be coated with silicon before I even install it all the way. They look cool if you can get one and the brass contacts do increase preformance. I felt the difference right away. They are always out of stock though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the info guys I got my parts after going 3 damn times to the same place to get them, it was the ignition coil that was messed up, used a dremmil to saw off the old rotor because that screw was a pain in the butt and got it all back together, runs great and I hope it stays that way! Thanks again
 

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I have a couple questions regarding the replacement of the rotor and cap. I searched and this thread has the most relevant information on the topic so i'll post it here. I have a G2, does that diagram in the article apply to my engine too or is the wire configuration different? Also, does that gasket come with the new cap or does it have to be purchased seperately? Thanks guys.
 
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