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Discussion Starter · #821 · (Edited)
I didnt get a chance to check out the car seats this weekend due to other car issues, but I did take some measurements. The results look promising, but we'll see what they look like with the seats in the actual car. I think the legroom is the same as the coupe, but I think there should be higher head clearance since the roof line slopes down a little less. Or at least it seems like it does.

I also tried aircraft paint stripper on the overspray on the glass this weekend. I sprayed it on a rag and wiped it over the over spray, it had no effect. I think i will have to spray it directly on the glass, and then let it sit for xx minutes like it says on the can and let it eat at the overspray. Hopefully that does it. If not, i'll be emailing Eastwood again.

So, I finished the DB8R exhaust and did a "shakedown" drive with the car to see how things are all sorted out. It didn't go well, I'm a little disappointed. But, here's some pics and what all went down. Here's the car for it's maiden voyage out of the threshold of the garage.


Really love the look and the sound of the DB8R exhaust.


But thats when it all went downhill. About 2 minutes up the road, the car threw a CEL and began to run terrible. I drove a total of about 6 miles to see if it was an issue with gas or just from it sitting stationary (also got about 5 gallons of fresh 93 octane), but no luck. Its idling was very very low at redlights to the point it stalled out, and the rpms would really hang between gear shifts. Oh, I guess 2 good things of the shakedown run. I love this Neuspeed short shifter and the newly rebuilt shift linkage, and the car is getting into closed loop now.





So I took the car home and parked it, and put the hood up, as usual.


Other things to note during the drive: the rotors are terrible from sitting, my cruise control still doesnt work despite replacing all of the pieces and repairing a broken wire, and I need to realign my steering wheel. It is so far off from when I removed the wheel to remove the dash.

So fast forward to later in the evening after the kids went to bed and the engine cooled off. Surprise surprise, I found this guy hanging from where it was supposed to be plugged into. Also found a break in the wire right at the plug.




So, I "phoned a friend" and will have a new knock sensor plug on the way to replace this one. I'll just cut and solder the new connection and do my best to make sure the plug actually seats on the sensor. Hopefully this fixes all of the weird RPM issues. I didn't get a chance to check the car seats, but I did take some measurements. It looks promising, so once i fix the RPM issue, I'll test out the car seats.

EDIT: Forgot to note the one other issue. Apparently I have reached the life expectancy of the exhaust gasket between the cat and the mid pipe. I could feel and smell (man those fumes in the garage!) a leak here. So I placed an order for a new gasket here. I also realized I need a set of ramps, or a jack that is lowered car friendly. Not that my car is slammed, I mean heck, it's on another car's stock suspension lol. I'm getting really tired of lifting and lowering my car in 2 steps with 2 sets of jackstands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #822 ·
This test drive went much better than the first. I initially thought I wasnt even going to get to work on the car this weekend with all of this OT i had to work, but i managed to get just enough done.

I replaced the knock sensor plug and pigtail, test fit the kid's car seats (tight but a success), cleaned up the inside of the car a bit, reconnected the car's alarm, and continued to diagnose an electrical issue with the license plate lighting. If i shake the harness, the lights flicker. I also straightened out the steering wheel so i don't have to drive the car straight with the wheel turned 90 degrees.

The car is still idling a bit low sometimes, then it picks up back to normal, but then dips down again to the low 600's. Its weird, the engine makes a thunk thunk thunk or a chugging sound when this happens. I still have to double check the timing on the car, not sure why the idle would be so low. It also still is a bit "hangy" between gear shifts and deceleration. So, hopefully this upcoming weekend I can replace the exhaust gasket, check the timing and continue to diagnose that issue, change the brakes and rotors, and finish up the license plate light wiring issue. I hope to get this car inpsected next week so its 100% legal.

And pictures, who doesnt like pictures.



 

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Discussion Starter · #823 ·
Ok, what a weekend. I thought it was going to be super productive, then it got flipped all around on me... So, my inspection appointment was set to be this morning, and in order to achieve that, I really had to hustle on a few things. Get ready for a novel....

Issue 1: License plate lights would flicker when the harness moved. Traced the issue to the plug between the car harness and the plate light harness. Couldnt get it to fix, so i just cut off the plugs and use a posi-tap. Problem solved.

Issue 2: Rotors extremely rusted from sitting and brake use doesnt seem to remove it, I installed new rotors and went for a test drive. still seem pretty noisy, I might need to change out the pads as well. Problem mostly solved.

Issue 3: Trunk was in complete disarray while trying to figure out what was wrong with the lighting. Got that all buttoned up 100% now. Problem solved.


Issue 4: The interior was a total wreck from trying to reconnect the alarm, re-run wires for the various things I installed, etc.. Interior is back 100% and cleaned up with only a few wires left to run. Problem solved. ( I proudly rock the old man tan)


Issue 5: Idle issue is still persistent where the car is trying to hold a sub 500 rpm idle. I removed the IACV to clean it. It was only mildly dirty, but still cleaned it. Put that back together, cleaned out the throttle body, and bled the coolant as an extra precaution. Idle issue is still present, but not all the time. It is absolutely maddening trying to diagnose something inconsistent. Problem = remains.

Issue 6: Weird rpm hang between gears. When shifting gears, the rpms are very slow to drop. When stopping at a read light, the rpms hang enough that if i dont put it in neutral, it will still try to keep pushing the car forward. If i put it in neutral, the rpms will hang around 2000-2500 rpm until i get to a full stop. Then it will slowly drop to about 1200, then 1000, then the car tries to idle at 500 or less and sometimes will stall out. I was hoping cleaning out the IACV and such would fix that, but no dice. I also checked the tension on the throttle cable to see if that was holding it up somehow, seems fine and the throttle plate in the TB seems to return to fully to its closed position without any hangups. Problem = remains.

Issue 7: AC needed recharged after having to disconnect the evaporator from the system to replace the cabin harness. I tried to put more freon in the system, but it refused to accept any. It certainly appeared the clutch on the compressor was engaging and disengaging, but it would take 2-3 oz of freon and thats it. AC condenser fan also was not kicking in. I have to do some further research on the AC system, I can't think of a reason why it wouldnt accept any freon, especially when it worked fine before i had to remove the evaporator from the car. Problem=remains.

NEW ISSUE: So, I never made it to my appointment today to get the car inspected. While out and about to test drive the car after all of this work, it decided to do something new. I took the car to 6,000 rpm a handful of times, and each time right around the 3000-3500 rpm mark, it felt like it was holding back or hesitating. At one point after leaving a stop light, I noticed the oil light was on and flashing. So, of course, I think Oh ****. Checked the pressure gauge, and it was still showing good numbers. right between 65-70 lbs at 3,000 rpm, and around 40-50 (maybe a bit less) at 2000 rpm. Got the car home, checked for devastating noises and didnt hear anything out of the ordinanary. The car was trying to idle at 500 rpm again. When the car tried to do this, the oil light stayed on constant, then when I gave the car some throttle it started to flash. At this point, I had be driving the car for about 20--25 minutes. Combination stop and go and up to 60+ on the highway. I let the car sit for about 10 minutes then fired the car back up again. No oil light, no flashing oil light, sounded fine.

Fast forward to later that evening, I checked the connection and the oil pressure sensor and it was solid. As a test, I removed the connector and fired up the car. The oil light did not come on. if i disconnect the plug from the sensor, I would think that should trigger the oil light....right? Also checked the oil level, its right where it needs to be. I'm really at a loss here...I'm hoping the car got to damn near stalling levels the last time I was stopped at the intersection and that trigged the oil light because the car couldnt generate enough pressure at such a low rpm. So, i'm thinking the stupid idle issue is to blame for this. I'm not sure what is to blame for the idle issue though. I am going to test my TPS to see if that is in spec. Maybe if that is out of wack, that will fix my idle issue and my weird rpm hanging issue? And I'm really not sure what is up with the AC system all of the sudden. If anyone takes the time to read this novel and maybe give a suggestion for something else to look at, man i would appreciate it. I really hate this. The car actually ran better with the shorted out harness and with it stuck constantly in closed loop, go figure....
 

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Discussion Starter · #824 ·
Alright, I'm thinking I'm starting to get things figured out.

The idle issue might be figured out, or at least something that isnt helping it. I'm sure this is probably contributing to the rpm hang too. The TPS is way out of spec and I cant adjust it any further. I ordered another one from rockauto, but its stuck in shipping purgatory somewhere.... At closed throttle with the adjustment maxed out, i was getting 0.89 volts and WOT i was getting 4.89. Not sure how that exactly relates to idle issues, but it is out of spec.

The hot / cold slider cable is all bound up and the heater valve is stuck open. Hopefully i can get the cable unbound tonight. That might fix my AC issues all together, the valve for the heater was all bound up too in the engine bay. And speaking of AC issues, i didnt realize it until yesterday that my condenser fan was coming on all along. It was my rad fan that wasn't coming on. God bless the shop manual, got that figured out in about 5 minutes. I found this guy chilling underneath a bunch of electrical tape.



I'm going to cut the connector off of my extra harness and wire it in.

Also, started a little side project that I;ve been wanting to do for a while now. I let the kiddos pick out the colors they wanted. As soon as this dries, i'm going to try and get their hand prints on here next before i high temp clear coat it. The boy is getting bigger by the day, not sure if his hand will fit on here anymore, but i'm gonna try.

 
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