Some more updates from the weekend and looking for some guidance. First, i have mostly welded in the inner panel arch. This welder is really frustrating. While it is a lot better than my flux core, getting this thing dialed in and staying in is absurd. I took some more scrap metal and messed with the settings again and got it to where it was making a nice spot weld without blowing through the car. Moved over to the car and it was fine, then all of the sudden it was not fine. And then back to fine, and so on and so on. I can't complain much, this is my first time with a MIG, and my buddy is letting me use the welder basically free of charge, but holy crap this thing is finicky. So, the arch is in, but i have to clean some things up where the welder started blowing holes through the metal again for seemingly no reason, and i need to finish up some additional spots. I am butt welding this, which i know is something i shouldnt expect to be able to master having never used a mig before and using a butt weld technique on such thin sheet metal. With that in mind, please be gentle with the welding comments lol. I hope to have this more sorted when it comes time to the outer panel, i'm not as concerned with looks as i am with strength and rust proofing for the inner panel stuff.
And here is where i need some guidance, i ended up getting that deck lid with the oem spoiler. i need to clean it up a bit before i start getting it paint ready. I need some good suggestions on getting these out so i can replace them, they're bad. PB Blaster and a screw driver isnt going to cut it.
And i want to treat/replace if necessary these studs in the wing. To do that, i need to remove the gasket or cushion or whatever this is. They do not make replacements for these anymore. Before I start ripping these off and destroying them, does anyone have a good solution for a replacement for these? I could get some rubber gasket material, but its not quite the same material, not sure if it makes a difference or not though.
Started removing the engine harness to install the new one to hopefully eliminate my electrical demons in the car... i got as far as the injectors and some of the under manifold plugs before i called it quits for the weekend.
This happened a few times...got some wire repair to do.
And does anyone want to give me an idea as to what is going on here? So i replaced my cabin harness previously, everything plugged up right where it was supposed to. Moved on to the engine harness which is also OBD2A and find this at the passenger side shock tower. Same wires, same order, different plug?
THis is the only plug that i have found to be different...makes no sense to me.
Oh and retrofit updates, sanded out the 3 lines on the lens and gave them a good polishing. not perfect, but 1000% better.
Anyone have good tips for unplugging the crankshaft position sensor? that is the last plug i have that i need to get undone to swap out this harness, i fought with it for about an hour today and i cannot get these plugs to come apart.
Aside from being frustrated with the engine harness, I mostly finished up the retrofits. Just have to put the misc. pieces back on each one to finish up and put somewhere safe until the body work is done. Oh, and the wiring, definitely got to do that. The output looks so good now that these are cleaned and polished, can't wait to drive them down the road.
Well, i disassembled and re-polished the lenses a bit with a different pad. I think I may have used the same pad as the compound and got some nasty swirls. Liking the results much better, not 100% but these are old headlights.
The stupid breather tubes on the back, just the longer one on each side actually, has cracked and fallen to pieces when I tried to re-assemble. I'll have to rig something up to get those back on there. And i am literally one plug away from swapping out the engine harness, this crankshaft position sensor is terrible. I sprayed PB blaster where the plug mounts to the metal bracket for 2 days and tried to get it to budge over the weekend. nothing...i'm going to look at removing the crank pulley, the belts, and anything else in my way this weekend so i can get a better grasp on this stupid plug.
Should be making some serious progress on the car moving forward now. I lowered the driver's side of the motor and was able to get both hands on that stupid crank sensor plug and remove it. I had to fix 3 more plugs on the new to me harness, but should be buttoning that up this weekend. Hopefully also in that progress is replacing the oil pan and gasket with some new OEM parts. Well, the pan is new OEM, i'm going with the fel pro perma dry this time around. i have the hondahabit studs on there already. Also, under the direction of my wife lol, i have made another purchase. I've spent so much time messing around with my friend's 25 year old welder trying to get it to work right and i just can't do it anymore. It is clearly not functioning 100%, something is making the wire feed inconsistently and is making the metal work an absolute nightmare. My new welder showed up yesterday, i bit the bullet and bought an Eastwood mig 135. I'll be borrowing the gas bottle from my friend's welder since i just filled it up and working on getting it setup to finish up the metal repairs on the car. Moving forward full speed, one weekend at a time!
New to me engine harness install and connector repair = complete.
New oil pan and gasket install = complete
Rear Quarter panel inner wheel arch repair = 90% complete (love this new welder).
As soon as i install the exhaust manifold back on the car, i can fire the car up to make sure i didnt butcher something with the engine harness install, and maybe...just maybe....it will fix my open loop issues. Only thing left to do in the engine bay is replace the o-ring for the oil cooler and i believe thats it. I'll work on cutting the outer panel replacement to fit the car next and start working towards getting that on there.
I need to redo the oil cooler, its leaking now that the car was running. I really hate that o-ring. I'm buying a new torque wrench to make sure i'm not smashing it, i dont fully trust the wrench i was using, but its all i had.
Well, I had a mostly productive weekend of working on the car. I finished the inner panel work and seam sealed it all up. Next, I went over the car and circled every low spot, ding, and dent I could find. Then went over with my first round of body filler and sanded it down with my DA. I'll still need to go over and block sand these spots to get them good and level. I now need to clean my garage, so much dust just from this little bit of filler.
I'll probably need to do this at least once more before I get to the epoxy primer. You can see in this last picture i started test fitting the donor panel. This was wear it went wrong and I made a mistake. I mis-measured somehow from one of my reference points and cut the donor panel a hair too short (maybe a little over a 1/2"). Super annoying. It can be fixed with another small piece of metal and some additional weld time, but I'm still mad that I have to do it and it was completely avoidable.
This weekend coming up, I'll keep working with the filler on this side of the car and move to the other side and finish trimming the outer panel for final fitment. Before i weld in the panel, I plan to use the body adhesive for the entire length of the wheel lip.
I also placed an order today for a "Spoon Sports starter pack" lol.
Possibly stupid question here. While i have the time, i want to double check something to see what is the correct placement. I have KYB GR-2 shocks and struts all the way around on the car, what is the correct placement of the fork in relation to the bottom of the strut? I've seen other struts where there is a tab that clearly tells you when to stop. I think the way i have it now, i have the fork placed so that where the strut starts to bellow out, it is flush with the fork opening at that point. if that makes sense.... does that sound like the correct placement?
I tried the fan pushing the dust out, that didnt work as i was intending it to, it just kind of blew it around. So i tried and fan to pull it out, i think the dust is just a little too heavy. So, instead of trying to multi task some things, i think i'll hold off on the remainder of the body filler work and get the outer panel sheet metal welded in place. at that point, i can connect the filler neck back up, put the wheels back on the car and move it around. i'll just park the car in the parking pad for when i do the bondo work so the dust is already outside and won't have far to go to get out of my life lol.
As it turns out, i am an idiot. i double checked my suspension forks for correct placement, i'm 1 for 2. the drivers side was right where it needed to be. Somehow i messed up the placement of the alignment tab and none and everything was all out of where it should be. So, i get to rent a spring compressor again and get that straightened out. Got a lot of the excess metal cut off the donor panel, should be good to body adhesive the wheel lip Friday night and start tacking the rest of the fender in place saturday night.
also, painted the hype r muffler for the car's new setup. You can see the totes and totes of parts i've acquired. I hung it from the rafters in the top floor of the garage, gave me good access all over to paint it lol.
edit: Looking for suggestions on how to handle another previous issue. So, like many north eastern cars, the compensator arm bolts were frozen and the sliding nut inside the frame of the car came out of the tracks. i had to cut metal out under neath the car to get access to make the repair. Now, here is the question. Do i get some scrap metal and weld the holes back up? Or do i do something like in this image i borrowed so i still have access in the future for whatever reason?
So, playing catch-up again with this thread. I fully assembled and tested my air compressor setup. My paint gun is an eastwood concours pro, it only needs 6 cfm to atomize and i have that with my one air compressor, but its only 33 gallon, i'm lacking in capacity. So, i fixed up an air compressor my dad had and i made a system that will tie the two into one line CORRECTLY. Each compressor feeds into a tee fitting, each with a check valve so neither tank backfeeds into the other. From there it mounts to a wall mounted regulator (soon to be wall mounted) and then the air feed for the gun goes here. I tested it out for a bit, it works fantastic, there is only a slight hesitation with the black air compressor filling up quickly while the red one nearly full, then it operates as normal. I also upgraded all of my air fittings to high flow fittings, the difference is night and day, i was really shocked at the difference.
I also picked up a gunbudd as some extra help. If it doesnt work for me, no big deal i'm sure i can sell it easily.
Also been "practicing" a lot with this thing, its helping me control my angles better. That was always my problem when painting smaller pieces, sometimes i wouldnt be perpendicular to the panel.
Fast forward to this past weekend
First time the car was out of the garage in like 14 months, drove out no issues.
I can't wait to remove this exhaust system
I'm not super happy with this placement, but i didnt want to remove the Jdmohio sticker or the garagebuilt sticker, so i made it fit.
And my kid saw the car again, he kept asking what happened to it and kept fiddling with everything lol. he kept saying oh no, what happen car?? Last time he was in the car when it was running he was 1, oiy time flies.
Here he pulled the dipstick right out of the car and tried running around with it
Now onto where i need some opinions, cuz i'm not sure how this is possible. From the factory, do OEM type r springs sit like this??
Passenger side (probably closer to 4.75, i was leaning a bit)
It looks like i'm off about 1.5" side to side. Ideas? Not super concerned with it at the moment, but something i'll have to dig into over the winter it looks like. I did fix the strut that didnt seem like it was sitting correctly, both are fully seated in the fork now.
So, continuing to press forward with the car, but i took some time off the actual car this weekend. I bought enough paint to do a junk hood and my garbage front bumper so i can see if i have any hopes of painting this myself. It was an expensive test, but i'm pleased with the results. Now, keep in mind that both of these parts are junk. I didnt spend a whole ton of time prepping them because it just wasnt worth it. the hood had dents, its rusted, and i attempted to put a coat of sealer on the hood but the black from the hood still bled through. the bumper has cracks and i did get one run in the bumper, but feel like this is the hardest part of the car to paint so im not mad at the results. i'm feeling pretty confident in my "paint booth;s" setup and my capabilities. The hood turned out like trash, but i had a feeling it would just based on the condition it was in before i started painting.
my freaking arms are killing me from all of this block sanding. Well, this it it, next week is the week. i'm taking the whole week off to get this car done. If it only gets in primer for this year and paint is next year, so be it, but we'll see how this all plays out. The body is about 75% ready for primer. I have several locations that still need a bit more filler to fill in some low spots, and i still have to fully block out one of the doors. I plan to get the body squared away this weekend and into Monday if i absolutely have to. Then, epoxy primer and fill primer tuesday for the car, block sand wednesday and primer the other various pieces wednesday, paint and clear on Thursday for the car and whatever pieces i can fit in the garage with it, and finish paint and clear Friday. In a perfect world, this is my plan anyways.