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Discussion Starter #621
TPS checks out ok, I think the issue is the car is staying in open loop. Id like to think the sensor is not bad already, but maybe I smacked it the wrong way or something g when I was reinstalling the exhaust manifold. As a precaution, I disconnected my air fuel ratio. That thing has been trouble since I got the car back on the road. I would love it if that was the issue. If I can, I will take the car for a test drive tonight. If the problem still persists, I’ll order another upstream oxygen sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #626
Here is a few more updates from this week. Pan is still leaking, no surprise there. I think i have the low RPM hesitation and missing figured out, its stuck in open loop and i think the primary o2 sensor is the culprit.

I ran my scanner and got these results.



Secondary sensor test


Primary sensor test


The car passed inspection and emissions yesterday, so the car is PA legal again. While it was getting inspected, i had them replenish the AC system. Who on here is an AC expert, because i can't figure this out.


I replaced the dryer, compressor, condenser, the o-ring connection points, the evaporator, and the evaporator core.* They removed any remaining oil from the system, put in new oil and new refrigerant (all to spec required by the car).* All of the pressures tested within spec for the outside temps it got to yesterday, but for some reason the air coming out of the vents is only slightly cooler than the outside temperatures.* They messed with it for a little while to make sure it wasnt something obvious, but they couldnt find any reason for the car not to be blowing cold air.* If it is holding the refrigerant, has the proper amount of refrigerant, the compressor is kicking on and off, and the high side and low side pressures are in spec, what would cause the air to not blow colder than what it is?
 

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Random guess because it sounds like you checked everything in the system already. Maybe something wrong with the cable itself connected to the slider to move from hot to cold? Just a shot in the dark though.
 

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Discussion Starter #628
I had the same thought process. I was hoping that was it, but it wasn't. At least it is properly lubricated now though and moves much easier.

Get ready for a whole bunch of text.....

So, I spent a lot of my Saturday and Sunday troubleshooting different things with this car. First, I started with the AC stuff. I rented a set of gauges from AutoZone to hopefully get a little more accurate. Here were the temps, but it was definitely at least 80 in my garage.



I started out by running the car for about 10 minutes with the windows up and the AC on full blast. This was the lowest the temp would go.



So next with the car still running and the AC on, I started feeling the AC lines. The ones that are circled blue were freezing, the ones that are circled red were warm but not hot. This is probably at around 15 minutes of the car running now. So, it looks like the low pressure lines were all freezing and the high pressure lines were warm. I obviously couldn't get to the ones going to the evaporator.




So next I hooked up the gauges.



Here they are with the car running:


And after I shut the car off and left the gauges connected.


I know enough about AC stuff to be dangerous, but I'm trying to learn more. I'm at a loss, it seems like the pressures are right for the given outside temperatures, and the air is cooler than it is outside the car, but it definitely is not as cold as it is supposed to be. If anyone has any other ideas of where I should keep looking, please let me know.

So then I moved onto the stuck in open loop issue. I replaced the oxygen sensor, and the car runs way better. The old sensor (old as in has about 6K miles on it...) was completely black. I'm wondering now if this car was ever getting into closed loop last year now. So after i replaced the sensor I took the car for a drive and through it back on the scanner again. While the car is running much better, it is still not getting into closed loop mode.



I read about making sure the TPS is in spec, so i tested that out again. It is out of spec every so slightly, i'm not sure if this is enough to cause an issue or let alone the closed loop issue i am having. To keep the closed throttle body value in spec, the WOT value ended up being a tad over the 4.5 limit. Does anyone think this is out of spec enough that I should replace the sensor? After adjusting the sensor as much as I could, WOT value was somewhere around 4.65, but the closed throttle was at something like 0.34, and I thought that would give me idle issues so I did not leave it like that.




I don't think it is an issue with the coolant temp sensor, because I am getting readings on my scanner. Again, I am at a loss of what to check next. What sensors/car parts would control if the car goes into closed loop or not besides what was already mentioned? I;m going to test for voltage etc.. at the oxygen sensors next, but I suspect they are getting voltage otherwise there would be a CEL showing up. Whatever it is that is wrong with the car, its not enough to throw a CEL code. If anyone can help with where to go next, please do...I need help!

So, after feeling defeated, I needed to go for a drive and take a pretty picture lol.

 

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Per the Hondata Calibration I was using to check my TPS, mine was nearly dead on, but was still having weird issues, I had no CEL or any codes related to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #630
Per the Hondata Calibration I was using to check my TPS, mine was nearly dead on, but was still having weird issues, I had no CEL or any codes related to it.
what kind of issues were you having? Did you end up replacing the TPS?
 

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I ended up replacing mine which fixed my cruising issues.

The throttle would cut out kind of violently while holding the throttle steady, car would shake. If I let off the gas during cruise, and got back on the throttle, it would hesitate. I thought it was a hesitation of some sort or a lean spike due to lack of fuel on my tune. The calibration and realtime setting on S300 showed it was working when the car was off. What I thought was a lean spike was the throttle "closing"
 

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Discussion Starter #632
Got the Open Loop issue narrowed down, it is a wiring issue. I just need to figure out which one it is coming off of the ECU harness. I'll be breaking out the shop manual tonight. For ****s and giggles, I might disconnect my boomslang harness from the ECU and bypass the VAFC2 all together just to make sure it isnt an issue with that harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #633

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Turns out the open loop issue is NOT narrowed down and still pissing me off. But, the AC issues is fixed. I followed this link here: https://www.team-integra.net/forum/19-projects-diy-article-talk/204686-c-not-cold-try.html

and sure enough thats what my problem was. temp in the vents went from 60ish to between 46-48.
I did the AC fix on my integra last night and drove all around town in 2 and 3 position and it was actually comfortable for once (Florida humidity lol).

Thanks, didn't know about this, but at least I know why my AC wasn't blowing as cold as it should have been.
 

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Discussion Starter #635
I havent updated my open loop closed loop issue in a while. Its still on-going. A fellow DB'er on Honda Tech is shipping me his ECU to see if mine is junk for some reason.

So, observation 1: When my car acts all goofy and sputters and dies etc..., it only does it under load when its trying to get into closed loop. If i pop in the clutch or put it in neutral, it free revs with no hang ups. As soon as i put it back in gear and try to go (if it is still trying to get into closed loop) it hesitates and pops and sputters like its not getting fuel. By luck, while i was working under the hood the car started having its issue while I was bleeding the coolant. The fuel pressure remained the same when it was sputtering, so it leads me to believe it is NOT a fuel issue.

Observation 2: I put some miles on the car with my scan tool connected in "live" mode to see what things were reading out as. Which doesnt mean they are reading correctly, but its a starting point. I missed the picture of the first screen, but here are the ST and LT fuel trim and O2 sensor readings right after startup before the car really gets warmed up.





And after the car is at operating temp. The really is no change.





I still have to go through the manual to see if any of these readings are in range with what they are supposed to be. I think its worth noting that whenever the car has its issue and tries to go into closed loop, the readings for the primary O2 sensor go to something like -36 and bounce around. I am 90% sure the readings for the secondary sensor stays at 0. I'm on "staycation" from work next week so i plan to do some further investigating into this car's odd issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #636
I tried to take a couple of videos of the car acting up. *You may need to turn up your speakers to hear it in the first video, the second video is pretty noticeable.*



And a couple of new pics because why not.

Supporting the people that help me out


And a pic of the car from my front porch, looking very dirty.*
 

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Discussion Starter #637
A couple of updates. My loaner ECU did not fix my open loop issue, so i can rule out the ECU being bad in my car. I wish that was the case though, i don't like chasing wires. So i'm still fighting with electrical issues, but not bad enough that i cant drive the car everyday. I like this picture i took of the car this morning. My truck was parked out front so i moved the car from the garage to the parking pad so it would be easier to get the boy into the car.



And from the other night. Just a boy and his Acura lol

 

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that is a great picture, makes the paint look amazing
 

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I'd like to run a compression test on the motor to see if i am getting something ridiculous for a number, that would prove something is not synced as it should with the work i did in the head. BUT, the results will be off anyways because i cannot get the motor up to operating temps if it wont run lol.
 
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