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Discussion Starter #1
Growing weary of troubleshooting. 2000 Integra LS lost all power while driving recently. Since it was towed home, I've confirmed the following:
1. Battery is perfect. 12.7 V.
2. I have a strong spark at the end of each of the new plug wires. I also have 4 new spark plugs. Spark is present.
3.When loosening the nut at the end of the fuel rail, when turning key to "on" position. Fuel gushes out. Fuel appears present.
4. Arrows on cams are pointing up, and the crank pully is aligned with the notch. Timing appears perfect.

I guess this leaves "air." Could I be having problems with the vacuum? I know nothing about this equipment. Is there anything else I could be overlooking? I've checked every fuse as it relates to ignition and fuel. Still, nothing. Am wondering if it could be the ignition immobilizer, CKV sensor (crankshaft speed), or starter.

I really need some help with this as I'm losing my mind, and can't afford to two to a mechanic, let alone pay to have it fixed.

One final thing ... When the car stopped running and I got it back to the garage, I noticed the alternator belt was gone. I replaced that and the a/c belt while I had all the belts off. Also, when I turn the key, the first 2-3 seconds sound normal, but then it turns to more of a "whirring" sound. Don't know if this could be a failing starter.

Please advise.Don't want to waste time messing with dizzy, or coil pack if my spark is good, but some people suggest it could still be a bad coil pack, even though my spark appears strong at all 4 cylinders.
 

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The starter is good if the car cranks. Could be one of the following:


1. Water temperature sensor has failed. In this case the car would still start if you crank it for about 5-10 seconds.
2. Engine lost compression. Perform a compression test to verify.
3. Open your distributor cap and make sure that the rotor is on tight. If it came lose you would still have a spark but the actual timing would be off.
4. Verify that the valves are properly adjusted
5. Confirm that the air hoses are on tight. Although I'd think that the car would still start, only idle/run rough.


Of all the above I'd say you likely have a compression issue considering that the car is boosted.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Crank no start.

Car is boosted? What does that even mean?

1. Car doesn't fire no matter how long I hold key in "start" position.
2. I have 120 PSI on each fo the 4 plugs.
3. Rotor is snug.
4. Have no idea if valves are properly adjusted, but vehicle was running perfectly prior to losing power on the highway. Thought a simple alternator belt replacement would remedy everything. It hasn't.
5. Air hoses appear tight.

I have fuel at the rail, but maybe they're not getting to the injectors. Also, I'm wondering if the starter could be weak. Reason being is the vehicle makes more of a whirring sound than a cranking, but every now and again, I think I must get the crankshaft in the "right" position because it sounds more like chugging and trying to start than whirring. Does that help? Could take quick video if you'd like.
Thanks for the feedback.
 

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I thought I saw you mention a turbo. But I guess I had it confused with another post. BTW, boosted means you have a turbo or a supercharger. 120 PSI in each cylinder means your car lost partial compression. It should be close to 180 psi. This would be consistent with valves either partly open or bent. When you did the compression test did you crank it until the needle stopped moving? Did you remove fuel pump fuse and had your foot on the gas pedal? Did you remove all spark plugs prior to the test? Did you remember to release the pressure from the gauge before testing next cylinder? If the answer to the above is yes, you need to perform a leak down test to determine where the compression goes before doing anything else.
 
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