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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had this problem about a week while I did some research and testing on this problem.

When I first start the car in the morning, engine runs fine for about 1 to 2 seconds.

The idle then drops to around 14 to 1500 rpms and then fluctuates fast...about 4 to 5 times/sec.

After 60 seconds of this, the idle then drops to about the 8 to 900 rpm and will do a slower fluctuation. However, at this point all I have to do is give the car some gas and the problem is gone. Occasionally and randomly there will be some knocks from the piston hitting the cylinder wall, but only during these first few minutes of warm up.

This only happens once a day, even after 8 hours of working during the day and leaving the car shut off, I won't have the problem until the following morning.

I've checked the: iacv, pcv, and valve clearance. Compression ok too.

Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? Any ideas?

Thanks, CJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2001 doesn't have one. But if it was bad, would i not have a bouncy idle regardless of temp?

O2 not heating up fast enough?
Bad MAP?

...working on the anger management.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
it's misfiring in the 1700-2000 rpm range. Kinda like pulling a plug wire while pressing the gas. But it does go away after driving for a bit. I seem to recall another member having this trouble, but couldn't find the article. The first time all of this started the ECU gave codes 71,72,73, &74. I don't get any of the codes now. Oh well, back to the old drawing board.
 

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same with my 94 GSR it does that to me when its cold, except its at 2500-3000, I posted an article about it but i think it was dlted. i took it to acura and there replacing my EICV for 400 $$$ $ $ $
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
sometimes, usually won't come on when she's idling.

Before I rebuilt the motor I did have the blinking cel, but it was b/c the block was cracked.

errr, what's the eicv again? you mean idle air c.v.?
 

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check your tps.. may be malfunctioning.. if so, i dont think it's possible to replace it.. you would have to purchase a new throttle body. don't quote me though.


EDIT:
you see, i dont know..i would tell you to get a diagnostic, but it's not throwing any codes for you.. maybe try flushing the system out with that new Sea-Foam stuff.. carbon buildup? that could definitely be a culprit of the flux idles.
 

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loud_whispers on Mar/23/04 said:
maybe try flushing the system out with that new Sea-Foam stuff.. carbon buildup? that could definitely be a culprit of the flux idles.
I actually just did this on sunday. My idle is much better, but it seems to idle really low/stumble at stops after warm now. I think an ecu reset will fix the stumbling however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the cel did come on today as i was about to go to lunch and the codes were 71,72,73,74. Always the four of them, So I reset the ecu, and no prob. But I am still noticing the infrequent and random ticking/knocking. It's loud and high pitched. I was told that b/c it is a built block and the fact that the rings were filled that it was the piston tapping the cylinder wall. Imagine someone taking a 10mm nut and dropping it on the concrete, it's about the same pitch, only louder.

There are two things I also noticed: Fuel was leaking from the 1/8 npt port on my fpr...fixed that.

there is some play in the timing belt...might need to tighten tensioner, but all marks line up correctly at TDC.

I'll definetly try the foam though.

I'm gonna try playing with plugs tonight (NGK-7), check the gap, probably pick up a cap & rotor from the dealership tomorrow.
 

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Yeah I think I posted on the other post too. Um mine was going from 1000 to 3000 and it finally just kept doing it! At first it was only when the car was cold, then it just got worse and kept doing it so I disconnected the damn sensor! I hope it does not cost 400 bucks to fix. Disconnecting it though, it revs to about 3500 when its cold and when it warms up it stays at about 2000 or so. I tell you it definately drinks gas without the thing! I think that it has a definate effect with the air to fuel ratio, so watch out! Oh yeah, no engine light came on either, fyi.
 

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i have been told my another person that this could be my problem i have not had a chance to check it out yet.
I hope that this works for you.

I would look at the ECT (engine coolant tempreture) sensor. Since it only happens at a certain tempreture there is probably an open or short in it and is only visable at that tempreture. to understand this you have to understand how an ECT works.
Time to go to school. Your computer in your car sends 5 volts to the ect. depending on how much volts it takes and puts back to the computer lets the computer know how cold the engine is.
example of a good ECT:
80 degrees out side, 80 degrees engine temp, ect reading is 4.65 volts
80 degrees out side, 200 degrees engine temp, ect reading is 2.02 volts
bad ECT (your problem)
80 degrees out side, 200 degrees engine temp, ect reading is 5 volts

so baisicly your engine thinks the engine is to cold so its gonna dump fuel to warm it up. this condition could go in reverse too. it the engine is cold and the computer thinks its hot you will not have enough fuel.
my suggestion to your problem is test your ect by back probing it when u wake up and then after you drive your car. get the voltage reading and see if it makes sense.
 
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