[SirLaughsALot]

Hi guys, I am in one hell of a predicament...lucky me.

I started working on my fuel cutoff today at around 2pm ish...spliced the yellow/green wire, ran it down to a switch, and connected the switch to a ground. Anyways, it worked for like 5 minutes or something, and when I tried to reconnect my fog lights (splicing ground, and putting back on its two wires) my engine wouldnt start. Tried flicking the switch, changing wire locations, etc.

Now I just short circuited the ECU, ran a code 48...the primary o2 sensor...

Anyone know whats up? I need this thing ready by the morning...whoopy, who's the dumbass who decided to do it during the week....omg.

I found an awesome spot for a fuel cut off switch btw..lol.

Checked my splicing, they are fine...just cant figure it out.

Please help.

*edit* Forgot to mention I returned it all back to normal...that was my first attempt at fixing the problems. There is still a spliced yellow/green wire that goes towards where the switch would be, but there is no switch.

Um, I am going to go check under the car, see if the o2 sensor wiring is messed up...could it have been pulled while I was splicing the yellow/green wire? Doesnt it come up right through the same spot as the fuel pump? I am rethinking what happened with my ABS...wiring was bad.

Yup, thats all I can think of, thanks for helping.

 

[TitoG]

Try resetting your ECU by pulling the fuse in the engine bay fuse box next to the battery and wait about 2-3 mins then put the fuse back and start the car and see if the cel comes back on.

Just and FYI. Theres no need to ground the switch. I never grounded anything when installing the kill switch. All i did was cut the power wire and hooked up some extension wire and connected my switch at the end. And its holding up perfectly fine for 2 yrs no problems. Ive also installed kill switches on 4 other integras same way and no problems whatsoever.

 

[SirLaughsALot]

Forgot about resetting the ECU, dad suggested it, ill go do it.

Ty.

 

[SirLaughsALot]

Not sure if you guys completely understood my previous posts...

I am not getting any gas into the engine. Fuel is not working.

Maybe that will help you guys.

 

[SirLaughsALot]

UPDATE after resetting ecu, still running a code 48.

 

[TitoG]

So you pretty much have the switch taken care of right?

Now all you need to do is figure out why you have a cel 48?

 

[SirLaughsALot]

I completely took the switch off....its just the spliced wire and my additional wire (not connected to anything).

Other than that, I just took off my fog light electrical for now...it was in the same area, and I was planning on using the ground from it anyways.

In other words, its all back to normal....I figured thatd be the best thing to do...I dont have a fuel cut off at the moment.

Think I should hook it back up to a switch, and then add other wires? What wires do I add to a 3 prong switch? Middle prong ran the fuel cut off wire...bottom had ground...didnt use top.

Is that correct?

 

[TitoG]

the switch i used was only a 2 prong. I think for the 3 prongs you have to figure out which one is the ground and eliminate it (in other words dont use it). I believe the middle bar is definately a go but now you have to figure out which of the outer prongs is the ground. Go to autozone and by a 2 prong switch. It'll make life a lot easier

 

[SirLaughsALot]

I have a 2 prong one as well, what are for each prong?

Its a very small switch, a longer prong and a shorter prong.

Do you know which is which? I got mine from radioshack for like 3 bucks or something.

Not lighted..

I need to know the wiring...which wire goes where. For my fog lights I have a wire running directly from my fusebox (wire has a fuse on it) and it gives the lights power. I probably wouldnt use this would I? The other wire is a white wire, connecting the lights themselves to the 3 prong thing, I wouldnt use that for sure. And you said no ground.

So Im guessing just 1 wire? Or do I add the first of the 3 I just mentioned, which is a power wire...

 

[SirLaughsALot]

Ok, the 2 prong was way too small to fit.

I completely took off the added wire, wrapped the two yellow/green wires back together to make them whole again, and taped them accordingly.

So now, with it all back to normal, the code 48 is still on.

No fuel to the engine.

 

[SirLaughsALot]

The alarm is working again. (LCD controller stopped working)

Main relay might be out.
Fuel Pump relay might be out.
Ignition relay might be out.

I am looking up the location of these right now in helms...

A tech is coming by my house later today to check it out...

Theres your update, 3 days into this.

 

[TegTyme]

good luck, keep us posted

 

[SirLaughsALot]

Ty kent...I think ill need it.

 

[SirLaughsALot]

Everything is fixed.

Just so happens I didnt check 2 fuses (hidden by my alarm stuff) and one of which was the 15amp ignition switch...which I thought I had replaced. Instead it was some other 15 amp right at the end of the main fuse box...thought that was it for some reason.

Car runs nice btw.

New NGK sparkplugs (i was running autolight platinums, never run anything but OEM for sparks guys..omg bad for the engine), new oil change (Kendall GT-1/Oil Stabilizer, etc) from Good Year for like 12 bucks...new oil filter too, yay.

Its now starting to rain, time to kick ass.

 

[mikeb01453]

why would non oem spark plugs be bad as long as they are wat the factory recommends

 

[TheGSRGuy]

If they're platinum and gapped correctly, there's no discernible difference. I use Bosch platinum (single electrode) gapped to factory spec. No need to pay $12 for a single NGK when I can get an identical Bosch for 1/4 that.