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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I recently swapped my motor, and used my old GSR transmission with 200k+ on it that ran fine before the swap.

Now, its running perfect, but it wouldn't go into gear. It shifted fine when the car wasn't running, but didnt shift when the car was on, which led me to believe it was a problem disengaging the clutch.

Of course, not wanting it to be something major, I decided to start with the simplest things. I wanted to bleed my clutch lines, so I did the Helm recommended procedure, which I know is not the procedure the majority of you like to use, where you put a hose on the bleeder screw and submerge it in brake fluid, then just pump away without tightening/loosening the bleeder screw in between pumps.

This method has worked fine for me before tons of times. I used it to bleed the clutch lines after I swapped my master cylinder about a year ago. Now, I pumped the pedal until bubbles stopped coming out, but the level in the reservoir never went down. That makes sense, because its sucking fluid back up each time when I don't close the bleeder screw.

Anyway, then I tighten the screw and pump the pedal, and no pedal stiffness comes back. I had plenty of clutch pedal stiffness before I started bleeding.

So I tried the old tried and true, pump down, close valve, pull up, open valve, etc. The fluid never went down in the reservoir. So I pulled the clutch pedal up and opened the bleeder. Then I set the end of the hose on the ground and pumped the clutch down, and no fluid came out. I'm so sick of diagnosing problems, I've been working on this for 5 weeks solid working out problem after problem. Someone help my tired brain. I'm hesitant to think my MC could be at fault because it is pretty new, and I bought it from the dealer OEM. Maybe the slave cylinder? I don't really want to do any more work, but if you all think the slave cylinder is a viable possibility, I'll replace it.

Thanks for your help. I'm weary and I'm gonna go lie down.

I'm not even sure if fixing this problem will help with the shifting problem, because pedal stiffness was fine before...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nope, kept the same clutch that has about 60k on it.

It's a closed system, so there is suction. Though I'm not really sure how the plunger in the reservoir works, it looks like it may let pressure out through the cap/plunger mechanism, but I'm too tired to think logically. I'm pretty sure that's just to keep air from getting in.
 

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when i had the EXACT same problem it was m clutch itself. a spring came out of position and was being lodged when the clutch was supposed to be engaged. try revving high and shifting into gear. if you can, then that is your problem.

my problem = car shifted fine when engine was off. also i could shift into gear if i revved before i shifted.

hope this helps
 

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nate2k5 on Sep/28/07 said:
i would have just replaced the clutch at the time of install...clutch changes are no fun
tell me about it. since i didnt know how to do it i took it to a mechanic and my car was down for about 2 weeks cuz he had other stuff to deal with first
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah, but the thing is, we inspected the clutch, and there wasn't anything visibly wrong with it. I wouldn't think that something would have happened in the 2 times I've fired up the motor since the swap.

I have yet to drive the car, it's still up on jackstands from the swap.
 

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Thrasher865 on Sep/28/07 said:
Yeah, but the thing is, we inspected the clutch, and there wasn't anything visibly wrong with it. I wouldn't think that something would have happened in the 2 times I've fired up the motor since the swap.

I have yet to drive the car, it's still up on jackstands from the swap.
hmm i am not very skilled in this area especially if you've already looked at the clutch disc.

did you physically drop the tranny and take it out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, well we had to drop the tranny to swap it over to the new motor along with the old clutch and flywheel.

I'm thinkin that the MC/SC would explain both the clutch not disengaging and my trouble bleeding the clutch lines. So I'm gonna start off with replacing the slave cylinder I guess.

If anybody has any other suggestions, please feel free to post them, as I'm almost at my limit with dealing with my car. I'm about ready to sell it for scrap metal and buy a lumina that will get me from point A to point B.

As for replacing the clutch and flywheel at the time of the swap. Well, all I have to say to that is: I'm not made of money. This swap was done out of necessity, not power gains.
 

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hey i got the same problem too but i found out that it's my mcs because the adjustment when you connect the mcs to the padel was too far or too close..so this cuz no fluid to go into my system...make sure the fluid level drops so you know that the mcs is working...so...there is a forum on mcs in here that tells/shows you the adjustment....check it out and that should solve the problems...let me know how it went...i know it's confusing but try it out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, it is mated with the release fork correctly. If you mean lined up correctly on the bolt pattern, there's not a lot of room for play there. Right now my main concern is why I can't bleed the lines and get pressure to come back into the pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
GRRRRR! I swapped out the slave cylinder, still only getting a little pedal pressure. It's decent enough pressure to let me know that the system is holding up good, but nowhere near where it needs to be. The slave cylinder is pushing on the release fork, but I dont think far enough.

I wanted to try adjusting the clutch pedal, but that's waaaaay too much hassle. I can't get the damn locknut on the pushrod loose. The whole freakin push rod turns with it, and theres nowhere I can put another wrench on to hold it from turning. I think I'm just gonna tow the freakin car to a shop, after all this work I put into the swap, just to have a little freakin clutch problem worked out. IM OVER IT!
 
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