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I've driven the car the past few days in 50 degree temps. Something has to change with my cooling setup. First the car takes way to long to heat up coolant wise. This is a pretty simple fix, just swap back to standard thermo...

The other issue is that the oil temp takes absolutely forever. I struggled to see temps get over 140 after 30 mins of driving. Granted I'm not beating on the car but only because the oil temp is up to par yet... I am using a greedy thermostat cooler/adapter

So I'm going to remove my current sandwhich plate and throw the stock oil cooler back on. I'll use the stock cooler to help bring my oil temps up. But currently I'm using the coolant ports for the cooler going to turbo. This has be changed up, this time I'll use the radiator and add another port to the coolant pipe for the turbo...
Lol, Well... when every cooler/line on the car is made of aluminum or SS :rolleyes:, you get lots of surface area for heat to escape.

I joked about it in another thread, but damn man that really may be the case lol. I am shocked the oil won't get to temp even with the thermo. Although the lower coolant temps certainly wont help the oil temps either.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
I think partly problem is that my oil cooler is massive... The oil thermo still allows some oil through even when dead cold; its always about 10% open I've read. I can literally watch my oil temps decrease when the car is in motion.

In this 50 degree temp, the car takes about 15-20 min for coolant to get up to 190 degrees. I agree this isn't helping the oil at all..but I'm not sure how much 15 degrees in coolant change will help my oil temps. I'm worried about chilly mornings at the track, having to deal with getting my oil temps up.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
I finished the car up last week. I had to rip pretty much everything out of the car to add the oil cooler and bungs to the radiator. A few more bolts and I could have head the off. All the turbo stuff had to come out to get the radiator free.

I got a -6 and -4 bungs welded to the radiator. These are feeds for the wastegate and turbo. They merge into a Y fitting that goes into the waterpipe on the backside of the block. Since I'm using the stock oil cooler now, I had to get rid of my KMS adapter plate. With that plate gone I needed a new oil feed for the turbo, I picked up a fitting that goes into my greedy thermo plate.

I also did a new t-belt/tensioner and added the belt covers back on.



Car heats up so much more appropriately now with oem t-stat (I got the t-stat from honda). After about 5-7 mins the car is warmed up to operating temps. Oil gets up to about 150 degrees after about 10-14 mins of driving. This is a huge win for me :)

I've driven the car quite a bit when its not raining. I've noticed a new problem. The car seems to be missing at high RPM; around 8000 or so. It has also missed one time at 6000 rpm. But I can replicate at 8000. If I keep the gas down car will keep going. I did a log run and everything looks good that ecu is seeing. I'm concluding that its my dizzy/igniter/coil.

I've also experienced another issue that the dizzy/igniter/coil do. The longer the car sits the harder it is to start. If the car sits without being started for a month. It wont want to fire. I can crank and crank, but nothing. Right when I let the key off the starter the car will act like it will want to fire then die. After a few tries of this finally takes and starts. The longer it sits more the tries it takes. If I start it at least once a week, it has 0 problems starting.

I've heard tons of the problems with the pro-billet setups so I'm going to try something different. I'd love to do COP but with neptune that isn't option. And I'd prefer to keep the stock ecu vs an AEM unit. I just bit the bullet and bought a M&W Pro 10 unit. I'm going to keep my pro-billet dizzy on for the time being.

I would swap back to an OEM dizzy but I don't have one laying around. I'd also have to get new wires and the msd cap that allows for an external coil.

But I think the igniter is the problem with my current dizzy setup. I will also continue to use my msd blaster coil. Only because I have a spare and swapping didn't fix the miss; it also already has a mount setup in the car.

This will let me know right away what the problem is with the miss. I'll pretty much be replacing my igniter in my current setup with something that is rock solid. If I'm still having problems I'll bite the bullet and spend the cash on an OEM dizzy/wires/msd cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
I made the wiring harness over the weekend. Pretty simple, I find it unbelievable that people charge 275 bucks for this.. granted I'm not using raychem but still... I ordered some body clip zip ties from honda, so that will clean the harness up a bit and keep it secured to the chassis. I should get those on Wednesday. I've driven the car a bit and everything seems great!





 

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Discussion Starter #153
Any updates?
Not so much, havn't done too much to the car since the ignition. I did however wrap the intake pipe with gold tape, threw on some header wrap and bought a ptp turbo blanket. This was in preps for the WMHM up at gingerman raceway last weekend.

The car drove good but my water temps would start to creep up after 10-12 mins of hard driving. I did some things at the track to try and help.

After the first session, I removed my hood spacers. I saw zero difference, but I did drive the car much harder the 2nd session.

After that session, I went to the local tractor supply picked up some diamond plate. I made a block off underneath the car that tied the intercooler and radiator together to help stop air from going out and around the radiator. I also threw in some water wetter.

This helped quit a bit, but still couldn't do a full session that day. I was able to get a full session in the morning the next day, without the temps creeping at all. Temps were 70ish at that time. Later in the day the temps were mid 80's and the car started to get hot again. This was some what good news becuase that tells me I can fix it.

I can make more blockoffs that force all air through the IC to go into the radaitor.

I can switch to straight water, but I'd prefer not to.

I can cut slits in the bumper and force fresh air straight to the radiator, but thats a last resort :rolleyes:

Highest recorded oil temp was 231F.

Heres a video from the event:

 

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Discussion Starter #155 (Edited)
I don't do any road course racing or auto X so indulge me here.

I see a lot of heel-toe work on the pedal cam. It seems as if it is when down shifting and braking at the same time. Is the idea there to rev match the next gear?
You are correct. I do have a bad habit, of double hitting the gas on a 5th to 3rd downshift. I'll push the clutch in, hit the gas, move the shifter to 4th, hit the gas again, move the shifter to 3rd and let out on the clutch. The double punch is worthless, but I've done it for so long I can't break the habit. I've seen other "real" race car drivers do it makes me not feel so bad I suppose.
 

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I remember seeing this car. Looks good!

I've contemplated bringing the turbo car one year for fun hehe. But I dont think it would be fun tackling the heat or brake (or lack there of) issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #157
I remember seeing this car. Looks good!

I've contemplated bringing the turbo car one year for fun hehe. But I dont think it would be fun tackling the heat or brake (or lack there of) issues.
Thanks, I didn't know you were going to be at the event, otherwise I would have looked for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Just figured I'd make a post, its been a while.

Nothing much is new with the ITR, I have a track event this monday/tuesday at mid ohio. Tonight I'm going to be swapping front brakes. I'm also going to drain the coolant and run straight water. I should have done some more cooling modifications before the event, but I didn't....

I've been working on another project recently, I picked up an eg hatch with with an ls-vtec swap. I wanted some better mpg for a daily. The jeep getting 16mpg just isn't cutting it. This eg has been modified somewhat, wire tuck (blah), burning oil, etc.

So right now I'm just going through and fixing all the bs. Dash is missing bolts, which is obviously why it rattles. I'm adding power windows/door locks/mirrors. I'm also adding a/c to the mix as well. It has extended lugs in front which look ridiculous. IDK, just a lot of **** is half assed on the car. With a little bit of a love it should turn at to be a decent car.
 
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