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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally decided to throw up some specs/pictures of my winter overhaul on the ITR.

I bought the car stock (had Stainless brake lines) back in 05 with 29k on the ODO.. Over the last 6 years I've done the follow:

PIC Select 12k/14k suspension
PIC Bushing Kit
MSD Distributor/Ignition
Legend Brakes/Rotors
Odyssey 610 Battery
Fastline Shifter
Exedy Stage 2 Clutch
Exedy Chromoly Flywheel
Mfactory 3rd-5th gearset
Stainless Clutch Line
Supertech Dual Springs
Supertech +1mm Inconel Exhaust Valves
Supertech STD Intake Valves
Crower Chromoly retainers
ARP Headstuds
Moroso Catch Can
Sparco Steering Wheel
Mugen Twin Loop Exhaust
Hasport Motor Mounts

This winter rebuild is going to consist of the following:

84mm Sleeved b18c5 (Darton MID Sleeves)
B17 Crankshaft
Eagle 5.531" Connecting Rods
Endyn Rollerwave Pistons
Cometic Headgasket
Arp Main Studs
Twinscroll GT3071R Turbocharger
Spa Topmount Cast Manifold
T3 Clock Flange
Fullrace Backdoor Intercooler
Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
Tial 44mm Wastegate
ATP 38mm to 44mm Wastegate Adapter
Griffin Dual Pass Radiator - 1.25" tube size
Edlebrock Fuel Filter
Fal Radiator Fan
Fastline Oil Pan Baffles
Autometer Dual Gauge Pod
Spa Dual EGT/Boost Gauge
Profesional Products Powerforce Pulley
Virgin P28
Innovative LC1 Wideband
Full Race Pro Am Traction Bars
AEM Fuel Rail
RC 750cc Injectors
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Buddy Club Cam Gears
Mac Solenoid for Boost Control
Mfactory 4.05 Final Drive (Need to buy still)
Spa Dual Oil Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge (Need to buy still)
Neptune RTP (Need to buy still)
Wideband Sensor (Need to buy still)
Oil Cooler (Need to buy, undecided on brand/style)


While I was waiting on my block to get back from Darton East, I decided to undertake a rewire project. I had the dash out (I forget why) and that monster thick cabin harness was just eyeing me down. I've stripped mostly everything out of the car already radio, a/c, heat etc, so I figured there were alot of unused wires. I've ended up rebuilding/wraping all the wiring in the entire car.

Whats done:
Front Harness (Headlights, Turnsignals, Boost Controller, Horn, Radiator Fan)
Front Firewall Harness (Wipers, Brake Fluid Level)
Rear Harness (Tailights, license plate lights, backup lights, Fuel Pump, Low Fuel Light, Fuel Gauge, Parking Brake)
Steering Column Harness (Starter, Steering Lock, Horn Button)
Dash/Guage Harness (Instrument Cluster, Hazard Switch)

The cabin Harness is done, it just needs to be wrapped, its already been tested. All thats left is the harness that goes from the ecu & gauges to the engine. I won't start working on this piece until the motor is assembled so I can get proper lengths.


Here a few pictures, I might bring my DSLR home from work today to take some better pictures.









 

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The Enforcer!
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looking good looking good
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all of the comments!

Longg list of quality! Lol what numbers are you aiming for? And out of curiosity why did you chose to go with Neptune RTP?

Definitely in for the build! Post more picsss!
I can't say I'm really aiming for anything. Reliability is the most important factor in the build. But 750 injectors on 93 will give me about 450 max. The car still needs to be balanced, so around 250-275 on the road course, and 350-400 on the drag strip is the plan.

Neptune just looked to be a superior product then hondata, and cheaper? but I'm always open to suggestions?



TheAlpha said:
This is going to be a nice build man, what is your HP goal? 12k/14k, hows it ride on the street?
Around 250-275 on the road course, and 350-400 on the drag strip.... The ride is good, but the ass end is so light, that big dips in the roads are the worst...Bumps aren't really a problem. If I was to daily drive the car, I'd go with the 10k/8k PIC selects.


Here is what the car looks like as of last night...







I got the fuel lines, battery and some under the hood stuff done this weekend. I still need to wrap the cabin wiring harness, so I can get the dash back in and the interior all buttoned back up up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just made a nice little order with Delray Acura this morning!

46321-ST7-A11 PIPE H, BRAKE
46380-SH3-000 GROMMET A, BRAKE PIPE
90654-SA4-003 CLIP, WIRE HARNESS (6MM) (WHITE)
90672-SJ4-013 HOLDER, ROD
90855-SA0-000 PLUG, VENTILATION HOLE (20MM)
91540-S30-003 CLIP, HARNESS BAND (151.5MM) (NATURAL)
91616-SR3-000 SEAL, FR. (LOWER) (INNER) (110X110) (BLACK)
91631-SR3-000 PLUG, AIR CONDITIONER HOLE
95550-12000 PLUG, BLIND (12MM)
95550-25000 PLUG, BLIND (25MM)
11251-P30-004 GASKET, OIL PAN
13014-PR3-S20 WASHER SET, THRUST (TAIHO)
14516-PR4-A00 SPRING, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
15221-PW0-S01 GASKET, OIL STRAINER
30110-PA1-732 O-RING (26.4X3.1) (TEC)
32756-P72-A00 STAY, R. ENGINE WIRE HARNESS
46391-SR3-922 CLIP B, BRAKE PIPE
46391-SR3-942 E-CLIP, BRAKE PIPE
46393-SM4-951 CLIP C
46394-SH3-A01 CLIP, BRAKE PIPE
46997-SR3-J01 CLIP, CLUTCH PIPE
91212-PR3-003 OIL SEAL (38X50X7.4) (NOK)
91214-P7A-004 OIL SEAL (80X100X10) (ARAI)
91302-GE0-000 O-RING (8.8X1.9)
91306-PJ4-000 O-RING (6.8X1.9)
91316-PE7-730 O-RING (62.4X3.1)
91308-P3R-T01 O-RING (26.2X2.4) (YAMADA SOMBOON)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here are some more updates.

I finally finished the main cabin harness....Never again.



I also got the front wire harness mounted up all nice and neat under the fender. I wasn't trying to do a wire tuck, but the harness was just a little too short to make the normal route through the bay. :frown:



And the rear harness, it was late, dark and phone was dieing so no flash.



And finally the bottom end assembly patiently waiting on bearings to arrive from honda. They'll be here Friday so hopefully, I'll get a good chunk of the bottom end done this weekend.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
A few updates with pics. I got the bottom end assembled with oem bearings, I made a small little app that helps keep track of the calculations.

http://dansprojects.com/itr/spec/index.cfm









I got the head milled and back on the block yesterday, here's a snap with the cams all lubed up. I always use moly lube for cams.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've been lacking in the update department. Alot of my time has been taking parts on and off, test fitting etc.

The trans will need to be taken off, the down pipe is going to ride way to close to the slave cylinder. I might be able to make it fit, but I'm sure it would be impossible to bleed it. So my best option is to convert to a pull style slave. I can't seem to get enough arm power in there to drill through the clutch fork (hardened steel). So I'll need to get this piece out and onto a drill press :frown:

Otherwise its coming together slowly. Radiator has its new permanent home. I just need to pull it back off and weld up fittings, drain plug, and a new top feed. The radiator is sitting too low for the fill. So I'm going to relocate a filler neck above and position it where the stock filler neck would be.

I'll have more lines ran for the turbo and oil cooler this week. Then it will be on to charge pipes and the downpipe.













 

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i think saying wow isnt enough
ill have to use my screen name and say your build is justYncredible!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
beautiful build man solid list of parts! is that a DIY b pillar bar?
Yeah I made it a long time ago (5 years?) for a camera mount... It needs to be taken out, I bet it weights over 10lbs.

Some more minor updates, things are finally settling into place. The slave cylinder needs a line ran, but I'm having trouble locating a m12 x 1.0 female inverted flare that goes to a -4an, I may have to run a longer stainless line then I prefer.

I received my sandwich plate for the oil cooler the other day, but it will not fit unless the stock ITR cooler is on as well. Since I will not be running the itr cooler, I opted to get a filter relocation kit. Figured since I'm moving all of the oil to the front of the car, I might as well make the filter easier to get to. I still need to fab up brackets for the cooler, and run more an lines for this.









 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
That radiator placement is perfect. Read thru and realized its custom and I cried a little on the inside lol
There really wasn't too much effort to make it happen.

I bought the radiator from summit racing, at the time they had a special and it came with free mounts. :cool:
I drilled the tack welds out that hold the factory radiator on bottom of the frame. I bent the free mounts and welded them to the bottom frame with a simple mig.
The radiator: I drilled out the top for the new water water neck. I then cut out aluminum circles to cover the original filler neck, original water outlet. I also drilled a hole in the bottom for a peacock drain.
then I picked up up aluminum -16 an bungs. And also pick up this filler neck from csr Inline Radiator Hose Filler - 16AN to 16an - Cooling Products - CSR
I have a tig, but I'm not skilled enough yet for aluminum. So I dropped the pieces off at my local welder, and he hooked me up :biggrin:

I can't say that this radiator was a cheap setup, if I had to add it all up:

radiator: 335
filler neck: 85
an stuff: 157
welding: 40

so a little over 600 bucks just for the radiator setup. But to me this is one of the most important aspects that had to be addressed. A thin half core radiator would not supply enough cooling for me while on the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got quite a bit done this weekend. Finally got my oil cooler setup etc. Also got some bullshit stuff done that I've been dragging my feet on like getting the front suspension back together.

So all thats major stuff to do to finish is the charge pipes, make the exhaust and finish the engine wire harness, and should be good for a test fire. I still have a bunch of small random ass things to button up, but nothing that can't get done in a few days.

Here are some pics of the progress....













 
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