I have a 96 GSR and only performance mod is CAI. Someone wants to sell me a chip that increases redline and lowers vtec engagement to 4500. My mechanic said this is a waste because I don't have enough mods. What do you guys think. Thanks.
chipping computer
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Who told you that? They are so very wrong.
It just isn't that easy, whoever told you that deserves to be punched in the stomach...
It just isn't that easy, whoever told you that deserves to be punched in the stomach...
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your mechanic was correct, chips are for people who have extensive engine mods and want to squeeze out every last drop of hp they can, plus buying a generic chip could actually hurt your performance because the numbers were not tailored to your vehicle, on top of all that chipping the ecu MAY result in you losing the adaptive ability the ecu has
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1. first and foremost, unless the chip is custom burned for your specific modifications. It's not going to do much if anything for performance. Companies like JET, that make a "one size fits all" chip are just taking your money and laughing at the "15% hp gain" that you think your getting.urcarsux on Aug/28/02 said:
2. You can lower your vtec kickover w/ a vafc from Apexi. But that doesn't necessarily mean it will boost your acceleration.
3. You should give your mechanic a good "wedge-e" for saying that you need a certain amount of mods to do either the chip "upgrade" or for increased performance of lower vtec engagement. If he procedes to still disagree w/ you, cut the ribbing off of his underwear after you give him the wedge-e.
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check this out on ebay: ITEM #1854458086
HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM??????? LOL
HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM??????? LOL
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VTEC engages at 4400 RPM on a GSR so I don't know what you are talking about by 'lowering' it to 4500.
In one of my posts I said that chipping an ECU does not necessarilly disable the adaptive capabilities. Actually most ECU reprogramming doesn't disable the adaptive capabilities. A racing only ECU like a Mugen or a Hondata used for race only probably does. The rule is adaptive capabilities maintained not eliminated when reprogrammed. Anyone know anything more specific?
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i showed everyone here something like that a while ago so you abut 2 months 2 late that picture they have timing advance = horsepower is funny thoughMASSIVEINTEGRA on Aug/28/02check this out on ebay: ITEM #1854458086 said:
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Don't get the chip I think is what everyone is saying. But it's your money if you want to waste it...
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whether it is OBD1 or OBD2, reprogramming the PROM or chip on the computer or "ECU" should be the very last modification.
Why?
the program on the chip is based on what cam, injector, fuel pump, intake, head, header, redline you are using. The fuel map and ignition map are programmed for that engine combination or package. If you order a new program to be burned onto the chip and then you later get bigger injectors or cams, the program no longer is right for that package...it becomes obsolete. It does not fit for the new amounts of air and fuel you are about to add.
The OBD1 chip can have as many programs reburned onto it as you like. Which is great for cost. You don't have to buy a new chip to get a new program. THAT is OBD1's advantage...most beginners mistaken the stock program to be the main advantage over OBD2 and totally ignore or don't understand the reburning aspect. If you buy an $300 reprogrammed OBD2 chip NOW and later decide to get another part that changes the fuel delivery or air delivery, you will have to throw that chip in the garbage or resell it to some other ignorant sucker and buy another $300 OBD2 chip with a new program burned onto it. You cannot just burn a new program onto the current chip you have, unlike the OBD1 ones.
You can order a new OBD1 or OBD2 chip with a program by mail from someone far away that is a guess of what is the best amount of fuel and ignition timing to add or take away for each rpm. You tell the programmer about your engine package and he/she burns in a guess for the fuel map, ignition map, VTEC switch, and redline. Will it make the most power? probably not. The best way to get the program to be done is to take your car to a dyno and have the programmer there to adjust the program on an emulator first before they burn the final program onto the chip or PROM. This way they are making adjustments based on what YOUR car tells them. They don't guess. So your car WILL get the most power out of the program if you dyno tune with a wideband O2 sensor.
Even the best programmers have to change their first "best guess" program to make the adjustments to get the most out of your engine. one mailed in best guess won't cut it.
If you learn anything from this board about ECU's, remember this:
do the ECU mod as your last mod NOT your first mod after i/h/c/e whether it is an OBD1 or OBD2 chip.
AND
if you get a new chip, choose a place which can provide you with proof they will gain a certain amount or your money back. The best ones will be those whio go with you to a dyno with a wideband and do the programing there with you on your car. No guessing involved. This is why the Hondata is such a great system.
BTW this was stated in my ECU article. Makes me puke to retype it all again.
Why?
the program on the chip is based on what cam, injector, fuel pump, intake, head, header, redline you are using. The fuel map and ignition map are programmed for that engine combination or package. If you order a new program to be burned onto the chip and then you later get bigger injectors or cams, the program no longer is right for that package...it becomes obsolete. It does not fit for the new amounts of air and fuel you are about to add.
The OBD1 chip can have as many programs reburned onto it as you like. Which is great for cost. You don't have to buy a new chip to get a new program. THAT is OBD1's advantage...most beginners mistaken the stock program to be the main advantage over OBD2 and totally ignore or don't understand the reburning aspect. If you buy an $300 reprogrammed OBD2 chip NOW and later decide to get another part that changes the fuel delivery or air delivery, you will have to throw that chip in the garbage or resell it to some other ignorant sucker and buy another $300 OBD2 chip with a new program burned onto it. You cannot just burn a new program onto the current chip you have, unlike the OBD1 ones.
You can order a new OBD1 or OBD2 chip with a program by mail from someone far away that is a guess of what is the best amount of fuel and ignition timing to add or take away for each rpm. You tell the programmer about your engine package and he/she burns in a guess for the fuel map, ignition map, VTEC switch, and redline. Will it make the most power? probably not. The best way to get the program to be done is to take your car to a dyno and have the programmer there to adjust the program on an emulator first before they burn the final program onto the chip or PROM. This way they are making adjustments based on what YOUR car tells them. They don't guess. So your car WILL get the most power out of the program if you dyno tune with a wideband O2 sensor.
Even the best programmers have to change their first "best guess" program to make the adjustments to get the most out of your engine. one mailed in best guess won't cut it.
If you learn anything from this board about ECU's, remember this:
do the ECU mod as your last mod NOT your first mod after i/h/c/e whether it is an OBD1 or OBD2 chip.
AND
if you get a new chip, choose a place which can provide you with proof they will gain a certain amount or your money back. The best ones will be those whio go with you to a dyno with a wideband and do the programing there with you on your car. No guessing involved. This is why the Hondata is such a great system.
BTW this was stated in my ECU article. Makes me puke to retype it all again.
be carefull what you buy, if you get a chip. Also for the VAFC that is a nice unit just remember that it dosnt controll ignition like your ECU does. Spend your money on something else first. Then go for a VAFC or Hondata or chip of some sort. Also i have a friend that makes conversion harnesses so if interested in doing a Hondata let me know cus you need a conversion harness and a OBD1 ecu
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