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about a week ago i experienced a wierd idle when i started my car that jumped from 200 to 500 back and forth and then died after 20 seconds. i restarted it and then it worked fine. two days later it did it again but when i drove it it went away. the next day i decided to reset my ecu. i got my car warmed up. i unpluged the back up fuse for 2 mins+ (it was the back up fuse cause the clock went) then i turned on the car and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. then i drove it normal with no abuse for the next 25 miles. I drove pretty hard a few times lately. now here i am two days later and my check engine light came on. i checked the code and it comes up to be a 9. the haynes book said its a "cylinder position sensor intermitent interupt or no signal" so i went through and checked to see if ti was ok and it was. the CPS doesn't ground itself out and the resistance is fine so i just reset my ecu and ran it for five minutes and the light doesn't come back on. did i fix it or could it be worse or should i drive better for a longer period of time. much help is appreciated
 

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When you reset your ecu, this is what I recommend. Warm it up. Take out the ECM fuse and the radio fuse, don't be lazy. Leave it out for 10 min., put it back in and start the car. Let it run for 10 min. at the least, don't touch anything, also I like to leave the AC and radio off. Turn it off, and then you can turn it back on and drive it. If the code doesn't come up again, it shouldn't be a problem.
 

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ajinct on Mar/04/04 said:
now here i am two days later and my check engine light came on. i checked the code and it comes up to be a 9. the haynes book said its a "cylinder position sensor intermitent interupt or no signal" so i went through and checked to see if ti was ok and it was. the CPS doesn't ground itself out and the resistance is fine so i just reset my ecu and ran it for five minutes and the light doesn't come back on. did i fix it or could it be worse or should i drive better for a longer period of time.
which wires did you test the resistance on and what resistance did you get? be specific (color, and from where to where).

there's only 4 real sources that can be a cel 9:

distributor ignitor

connections to sensor or to ECU is broken

broken sensor

broken ECU
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i tested wires 4 and 8 on the distributer to the ground and between 4 and 8 i got about .463 ohms
 

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I'm going to light this forum back up because now I'm getting a CYP sensor code (9) associated with missing (just like really low on gas) at cruising speed and when slightly off throttle (winding down). It misses at idle but not nearly enough to cause it to die. I've checked the Ohm reading for the CYP sensor and got around 360 or so, which was a little low according to spec, but I checked the two other sensors and they were all the same. So I ruled out the sensor being bad.

Now that I have that squared away, I changed my fuel filter and checked fuel pump voltage just to be on the safe side, and checked my spark plugs. I plan on checking timing and replacing my timing belt mainly because it needs it.

So I guess my question is, mainly directed towards you Tuan because you seem to be knowledgable about this specific code, the only way you are going to get a CEL code 9 is if either the sensor is bad, the circuit is bad, or the distributor needs to be replaced? Or the ECM needs to be replaced?
 

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ok just like on HT, ill post the same post..

how many times am going to have to post this..honestly, about 10 on here, and 10 on honda tech

its the cyp sensor, cylinder posistion sensor

PURPOSE
To determine ignition timing at start-up, position of #1 cylinder for sequential fuel injection, and normal timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects engine RPM.

OPERATIoN
The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses these signals to determine fuel injector and ignition timing and to calculate engine RPM.

The Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing at engine start-up. This signal is also used as a backup signal in the event the Cylinder Position (CYP) sensor signal becomes abnormal.

The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition timing of each cylinder and detects engine speed.

The Cylinder Position (CYP) sensor generates a signal based on the position of the number #1 cylinder for proper timing of the sequential fuel injection system for all cylinders.

CoNSTRUCTIoN
All three sensors are pickup coil and reluctor construction. The sensors cannot be serviced separately.


 

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Thank you Brian for posting that. It will most likely put the CEL code 9 to rest.

MD's post above also tells what the posibilities it can be. And those really are the only thing that it can be.

If those sensors are bad, just get a whole new distributor because like the Helms says, they are not serviceable do to it being part of the distributor itself. Therefore replacing the sensors will mean replacing the distributor unit.

The coil itself can be serviceable and replaced if that is a cause.


* This topic is now added to the Common Topics under Car Problems.
 

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I just got code 9 again... i sprayed wd40 in the distributor bearing and it went away for 30 miles then came back. I might just end up having to buy a distributor. on certain RPM it sounds like the damn thing is engaging VTEC, coming from the DISTR. NOT motor. It also has vibrations or something inside I can feel it, definately not normal. I'm not going to try and taking it apart to fix it. Bleh.
 

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This was so helpful! Thanks a bunch Brian for putting this all up for everyone. I'm not totally sure that i understand these CEL codes but i'm working on troubleshooting the issue i'm having.
 

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it is most likely the bearing in the dizzy if it has play it will cause the shaft inside to be unbalanced and throw codes you can get a repalcement bearing. you might have to get a new dizzy if the shaft moved to much and hit a sensor.
 

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This seems to be THE code 9 thread so here I am.
info for this post: 98 integra turbo hondata s300, obd2-obd1 harness, obd1 p72 ecu...

i just got an engine code. could not pull it with paper clip trick, when ever i put the paper clip in it would disappear. so i plugged it into the laptop and it was code 9. i have a new distributor from distributor king which i sent back after i figured out the code, to have them test it, they said everything was fine... sent back original distr. i have followed the instructions in the diagram above on testing the connections. I have reset ecu, engine light came right back on within 30 seconds, and i measured the resistance between terminals 4 & 8 and got 370, no continuity when each terminal was touch to body ground.... this is were i am stuck... "connect the test harness to main harness" from what i have read the "test harness" is another tool that plugs into the main harness. which i do not have unless i am wrong and there is one on the car and i am not seeing it. does anyone know where i can get a test harness? I have ordered a new distributor just incase the people at distributor king made a mistake should be here the end of the week.

looking for a little help on this. there are a lot of posts on the site about code 9, but no one seems to post the results of actually fixing it.
 

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Not sure if that reply is directed towards my post or just in general.

the only thing i can tell that seem different since the code has been on is that it seems to be running rich, and has a rough idle for few seconds after a cold start (starting the car after its been sitting over night)
 

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hey guys, I have a question, similar to GSRTURBO1's, every so often I would get code 9 but then, when i pull the code using the paper clip trick, the cel light would disappear when i pulled out the paper clip and restarted the car. Do you think that my car is old and is just throwing this random code every so often, it has happened about once every 1000 miles for the past 2 months, about 3 times now. Or is the problem bigger than that? I also have the same problem as GSRTURBO1's ----( the only thing i can tell that seem different since the code has been on is that it seems to be running rich, and has a rough idle for few seconds after a cold start (starting the car after its been sitting over night)

also sometimes I would pull up to a light and then my rpms would drop really low then I would have to tap the gas once slightly to have it idling a little bit higher but, if sometimes i don't catch it in time it even sometimes stall out.

I've clean my IAC, I've also used sea foam to clean the build-up out, and I bought this current after market dizzy with oem specs brand new, haven't tested terminals for continuity yet, but as of today I've had no CEL for over 2 weeks.

Should I be worried? what are the next steps that I should take?

The car is OBD1, with chipped p72 for LSVTEC.
 
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