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I have a '94 2DR Integra RS 5-speed 240,000 miles. The car has been running perfect up intil the other day. I drove the car to work just fine. But when I go to leave, the car wouldn't start. When I go to start the car nothing happens. All the electronics come on but it doesn't make any noise at all (no click, no tick, no nothing). I ended up getting a few friends to push the car and pop the clutch to get the car started. once the car was running it ran just fine until I got home and turned it off. Then once again, no start...

I checked the fuse under the steering wheel (fine). I removed the starter and had it checked. It was bad so I installed a new one. Still nothing...

I don't think it could be the batt. because I have an extra batt. inline to power my sound system.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Any suggestions??

I also checked to make sure the black wire is tight going to the starter.
I checked to make sure that there is power going to the starter.

I don't think that it is the ignition switch because when I turn the key to the on position the dash lights up with all the warning lights. And when I turn the key to start the car the a/c light go out (I'm not sure if that's a sure way to know but...).

It has to be something forward of the starter, right?? I'm thinking something is not allowing/telling the starter to turn on.

Please help...
 

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I assume your battery cables and battery terminals are clean and that it is topped off with distilled water (if need be) and that the starter solenoid was replaced with the starter. The first thing to do is to look and see how old your main battery is. If it is over two years old, unless it's an Optima or Interstate, then it's most likely finished. Nevertheless, have it tested. You can have this done for free at Wal-Mart or auto part stores. Be sure to have them charge it for thirty minuets to get a more accurate test. If your battery is okay then you most likely have a bad alternator. You can get your alternator tested too from auto part stores.

A "shadetree" battery test is to turn on your dome light before starting your and watch to see if it dims when you turn the key to start. If it dims, the battery is probably bad. If it does not dim, it's probably okay. When you said, "the a/c light goes out" that makes me think a bad battery.

For more info:
http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html

If you need an alternator:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

If you need a battery:
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_eStore/Search.aspx/Automotive-Truck/Acura/Integra?dsNavigation=Ns~product+Type|101|1|,N~21-4294493336-4294493335-2147384750
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the responces.

I checked the battery, it's fine.
I checked the alternator, it's fine.
The battery terminals are clean.
 

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Ihave the same problem...I have to turn the key to ignition a couple of times just to make it crank. But it always starts up fine. I see a lot of thread with the same problem. And none have any solution yet
 

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hyun_19 on Oct/26/10 said:
Ihave the same problem...I have to turn the key to ignition a couple of times just to make it crank. But it always starts up fine. I see a lot of thread with the same problem. And none have any solution yet
But no matter how many times I turn the key, I still get nothing.

This is so frustrating...
 

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arexniba on Oct/26/10 said:
Read my posting as it might help you...

I know how frustrating this can be, and makes us feel helpless at the same time.
The CEL does come on for a second and then goes back off. I don't think it could be the ECU because I can push the car and pop the clutch to get it started. once I do that the car will run all day until I turn it back off. (I don't know too much about this car so I could be completely wrong)

I know this maybe a shot in the dark but.... Isn't there a switch or interlock with the clutch or brake that won't allow the car to start unless the pedal is fully depressed. Could that switch or interlock be bad?? (please bare with me if I'm completely wrong)
 

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MPTeggy on Oct/26/10 said:
Quote: arexniba on Oct/26/10Read my posting as it might help you...
I know how frustrating this can be, and makes us feel helpless at the same time.


The CEL does come on for a second and then goes back off. I don't think it could be the ECU because I can push the car and pop the clutch to get it started. once I do that the car will run all day until I turn it back off. (I don't know too much about this car so I could be completely wrong)

I know this maybe a shot in the dark but.... Isn't there a switch or interlock with the clutch or brake that won't allow the car to start unless the pedal is fully depressed. Could that switch or interlock be bad?? (please bare with me if I'm completely wrong)


might be it or try jumping your starter to see if its ok

just jump power from the main wire to the spade conector on the starter if it rolls over its the nutral saftey switch and if it dosent its the starter



Quote: hyun_19 on Oct/26/10 Ihave the same problem...I have to turn the key to ignition a couple of times just to make it crank. But it always starts up fine. I see a lot of thread with the same problem. And none have any solution yet
you need the igntion switch part behind your ignition key the contacts are burnt out ... cant rember the thred right now .. he repaired it but for the time and hasssle i would just pick up anouther one
 

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Discussion Starter #11
[/QUOTE]

might be it or try jumping your starter to see if its ok

just jump power from the main wire to the spade conector on the starter if it rolls over its the nutral saftey switch and if it dosent its the starter
[/QUOTE]

Well I do know for sure that it's not the starter. I removed my old starter and got it tested. They said it was completely dead. So I bought a new one, installed it, and still no start. So I even removed the NEW starter and took it back to the parts store to have them test it (just to make sure I didn't get a bad starter) and it tested fine. I will try bypassing the neutral saftey switch.
 

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Ok.... Just as I suspected, when I jumper from my battery to the spade connector on the starter the car starts no problem.

But what does this tell me could be bad?? Is it the neutral safety switch? If so where is located? And is there a way of testing it without just replacing it?

If not what else can I check?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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By the way, I'm trying to find the location of the "neutral safety switch" in my Haynes Repair Manual (which we all know sucks), but I can't find it. What is it switch normally called?
 

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According to the helms, the only other thing you have to do is to check for breaks in the black/white wire coming off of the ignition switch, and then check the ignition switch as well to see if the black/white wire (or the pin it comes from in the switch) is getting power when you turn the key to the III (Start) position:


 

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MPTeggy on Oct/26/10 said:
By the way, I'm trying to find the location of the "neutral safety switch" in my Haynes Repair Manual (which we all know sucks), but I can't find it. What is it switch normally called?

Our cars don't have an actual switch to make sure they're in neutral, only the clutch safety switch
 

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heres my 2 cent with this problem. my pedal stopper broke and couldn't start the car. same symptom like yours but figure it out after 30 mins. have to reach in a tight space to push the switch to start the car. replace pedal stopper, problem solve. just my 2 cent.
 

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shoua1 on Oct/26/10 said:
heres my 2 cent with this problem. my pedal stopper broke and couldn't start the car. same symptom like yours but figure it out after 30 mins. have to reach in a tight space to push the switch to start the car. replace pedal stopper, problem solve. just my 2 cent.
Hmmmmm... This may sound dumb, but where is this pedal stopper??
 

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I 2nd the Ignition Switch; it's a common problem that will prevent your fuel pump from priming and Main Relay from clicking off. It's actually been covered quite a few times, with excellent write-ups on it. It's free to try, and if it does need replacing, it's only around $40 from Autozone.
 
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