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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok...

Here's the situation... When I'm playing around in my GSR and make a hard shift to 2nd and sometimes 3rd, there are times when my car falls FLAT on it's FACE! I'm not kidding. Like a few weeks back when I took her to the strip and tried my hand at a few drags....on the one and only run I got in that day, when I shifted to 2nd, the tires barked. My clutch grabs HARD! I have a Clutchmasters Stage 3 clutch in my car and some urethane engine mount inserts (only fronts at the moment).

When I make the shift hard to 2nd and sometimes 3rd, I get wheel hop on the shift. Sometimes, when I get the wheelhop, the CEL will flash but not stay lit.

It's strange because the car will absolutely fall on it's face. Usually VTEC doesn't engage until around 7500 RPM...I'm not kidding. I have a CAI on the car, and can normally hear the VTEC crossover at 4400 and REALLY hear the secondaries open at 5700, but when it falls on it's face like this, it's not hard to hear that everything's not running right on the car. It's like everything happens at once at around 7500 RPM. It's like VTEC engages AND the secondaries open all at once. The car feels "limp" and then it's like she pulls HARD until redline.

Has anyone ever heard of anything like this? I realize that I need to install my rear mount inserts, but I plan on doing it when I do some other fairly extensive mods to the engine (hopefully in the near future).

I honestly don't have any clue why the car's doing this wierd stuff. Does anyone have any idea how to remedy this?
 

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hmmm somewhat sounds like a loose wire...sparatic...seems to be set in by heavy vibration...that'd be my guess...vtec takes oil pressure too so that may be something...a shorted wire...any # of things...sorry I can't be more specific.
 

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check your tps sensor if the motor dosent se wot it wont open vtec and it wont give u the corect fuel mixtire
 

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The CEL sounds like the knock sensor is going off. It may be lose, and the vibration of the motor is causing it to think there is knock and retard the ignition.
 

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if the knock sensor is activated or if the engine temp isn't up sufficiently and the ECU thinks your car is still cold it will put you in semi-limp mode which holds you in a safe program up to 7000 rpm. It's not total limp mode when you get a permanent CEL that is a significant CEL code. In total limp mode (safe mode) the ECU will only let the engine run to 3500 rpm and severely retard the spark timing. In either case (semi-limp or total limp) you won't get VTEC activation anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok...

Loose wire, where? The times this happens, engine temp is up. It's definitely at a substantial enough temp for VTEC to engage.

Where do I need to be looking for this loose wire?
 

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on the knock sensor, or check if the knock sensor itself is loose.

The knock sensor is on the back of the block, check acuraautomotiveparts.org for diagrams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ohhh...

one of those FUN ones to look for and deal with.

Thanks, Ross
 

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check the engine oil level....my firend with his 01 type-R had the same peoblem, turns out he was about 3/4 quart low on oil. and thats all it needed.
 

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most people here know that VTEC activation is dependent on or controlled by 5 things based on the VTEC article here in the Info/FAQ section by SurferX.

we shouldn't have to go down that list (i.e. we listed 2 already tps and oil pressure sensor) for C_Rock77 since he's been here for awhile.

I think we were trying to go beyond those choices to see if anything else played a hand in his face falling.
 

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StyleTEG on Apr/18/04 said:
The CEL sounds like the knock sensor is going off. It may be lose, and the vibration of the motor is causing it to think there is knock and retard the ignition.
Does the CEL go off if the engine detects knock? As far as I know, it doesn't. Of course if there's a problem with the knock sensor itself, that might be a different story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah...

looks like a fun one to mess with...being that it's on the back side of the block. I guess it might be the sensor, itself. I'm hoping it's the connection with the wires and the sensor.

I'm not too familiar with the testing procedure for sensors like that. Could anyone point me in the right direction to some information elaborating on how to test and what kind of readings I should be getting if the sensor's ok?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's either reading the wheel hop as a misfire or the jarring from the wheel hop is tweaking the knock sensor. I hope it's just the sensor being loose. I'll have to look into it more, later. Every time I think about it, the engine is already hot
. And you don't really want to be trying to find a sensor when she's all hot.
 
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