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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve read a few threads talking about the use for certain types of camshafts but post them if can help. Right now I’m between choosing the right camshaft for me. Rebuilding a turbo ls as a dd. Forged internals as well. My current goal is around 200-300 hp. I know that is attainable with stock motor let-alone stock cams but I want the power to be efficient and my block to be able to handle it easily. I have intentions of upping boost in the future with a but will be keeping it n/a for a bit before I boost. ***Essentially, I am looking at stage 1 n/a cams (valvetrain if needed) since they are usually just a slight improvement from oem, and stage 2 turbo cams and valvetrain probably from crower. I’m trying to keep it around the same fuel efficiency and I’ll probably get adjustable gears to help with that, but I just want opinions on what might be the better option. Can stage 1 really handle the high flow? Can stage 2 be used efficiently when done right? If you know of any threads that talk about this then send them my way. Thank you in advance
 

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For turbo applications, your stock cams are more than efficient for your goals. I'm close to 800whp, utilizing stock Honda cams. No reason to spend the money.
 

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For turbo applications, your stock cams are more than efficient for your goals. I'm close to 800whp, utilizing stock Honda cams. No reason to spend the money.
Thats an impressive number on stock cams. Are you sure you don’t have to worry about valve float? Like I said I want it to flow efficiently. I’m gonna get the new cams and valvetrain just because there is an insane amount of miles on the motor. Previous owner got a “head job” but nobody knows what that exactly means. I’ll definiyely take this into account
 

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You also have to remember jjkz24 have a fully built GSR motor. He invested allot and time into his vehicle. They don't come cheap.

For 200-300hp you don't need much. Like jjkz24 said, stick with the stock cams and you don't need allot of boost I think you probably can get away with 6-7psi on a stock motor and a good tune. I would upgrade your rod bolts .
 

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Thats an impressive number on stock cams. Are you sure you don’t have to worry about valve float? Like I said I want it to flow efficiently. I’m gonna get the new cams and valvetrain just because there is an insane amount of miles on the motor. Previous owner got a “head job” but nobody knows what that exactly means. I’ll definiyely take this into account
Head is completely stock, with the exception of having it o-ringed (better sealing between the head & block), and upgraded springs & valves. The springs are what assist with float.

Pic attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thats an impressive number on stock cams. Are you sure you don’t have to worry about valve float? Like I said I want it to flow efficiently. I’m gonna get the new cams and valvetrain just because there is an insane amount of miles on the motor. Previous owner got a “head job” but nobody knows what that exactly means. I’ll definiyely take this into account
Head is completely stock, with the exception of having it o-ringed (better sealing between the head & block), and upgraded springs & valves. The springs are what assist with float.

Pic attached.
I thought you had to have upgraded camshafts to match upgraded valve springs and retainers? What springs and valves do you use for stock cams?
 

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I thought you had to have upgraded camshafts to match upgraded valve springs and retainers? What springs and valves do you use for stock cams?
You're thinking of it backwards. Cams are not chosen or determined by the springs & retainers that are chosen. Cams are chosen from what the peak whp is trying to be achieved, and where you want the power gain to be along the RPM's.

Valve float -

There are two types of valve float. Loft, and Bounce

Loft - Basically, caused by too little of open pressure. Usually occurs when there's excessive cam speed (high rpms)

Bounce - When the valve bounces off its seat before it settles (too little seat pressure)

My engine is all about mid to peak power. Because of where I rev my engine, I have stiffer springs / retainers

My valvetrain is all Brian Crower
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I thought you had to have upgraded camshafts to match upgraded valve springs and retainers? What springs and valves do you use for stock cams?
You're thinking of it backwards. Cams are not chosen or determined by the springs & retainers that are chosen. Cams are chosen from what the peak whp is trying to be achieved, and where you want the power gain to be along the RPM's.

Valve float -

There are two types of valve float. Loft, and Bounce

Loft - Basically, caused by too little of open pressure. Usually occurs when there's excessive cam speed (high rpms)

Bounce - When the valve bounces off its seat before it settles (too little seat pressure)

My engine is all about mid to peak power. Because of where I rev my engine, I have stiffer springs / retainers

My valvetrain is all Brian Crower
And what do you think of it? Do you have the dual springs with titanium retainers? And do you have upgraded valves? I’ve been looking at crower for a while. Someone even told me that I cannot have an upgraded valve train with stock cams though and that’s part of the reason I’m looking at new cams- because I want to upgrade the valvetrain for reliability and efficiency
 
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