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I just went over your engine package 1 article again. I still don't have a complete understanding of the material presented, but I am getting there.

Is there any power to be had by getting adjustable cam gears if running stock cams? From my understanding yes, this way you could adjust lobe separation and get some more scavenging (via more overlap). Is this correct? I do realize you don't just strap on a part and magically get horsepower. But, since I don't fully understand this concept, would there be any appreciable gains with cam gears and tuning, but nothing else as of yet.

Bear with me, as I said I don't have a complete understanding. You don't have to spoon feed me. Just guide me in the right direction. Until a reply, I am back at your article reading it until I get it.

Woody
 

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I think you have a new padawan learner here Mike.
I'm j/k w/ you woody. I'm glad that you're reading the articles insteading of posting the same ole' newbie questions.

Basically in a nutshell, w/ adjustable cam sprokets you can tune your car to make a little more power in one area at the expense of sacrificing power at the opposite end. Small gains can be realized w/ these adjustments on your oem camshafts. 3-5whp if I remember correctly.

There is a thread where I pose the same question. I'll see if I can find it.

EDIT; found it look about 6 posts down from the original post and you'll see that I post the same question almost verbatim. here ya go
 

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Thanks, that would be great! I've done a ton of reading and there is one thing I have learned. I haven't read nearly enough!!!

3-5 whp would be nice. I was expecting less.

Woody
 

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But you said gaining that would be sacraficing it elsewhere... so would you be gaining that at the top end and losing it at the bottom?
 

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sure. or vice versa. depending on where you want your powerband. A drag racer wouldn't mind losing some power at 3000-4000 rpms cause after first gear you don't touch that part of the powerband in the quarter.*


*Assuming you have a B1
 

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yes the mechanism of how cam gear tuning works is 2 fold:

1. you adjust the LSA and therefore the overlap. More overlap = more upper rpm power. Less overlap = more midrange. The more the overlap, the more scavenging you get.

2. you adjust the time the intake cam closes and therefore you can affect the dynamic compression ratio. This means you can add more cylinder pressure or bleed more cylinder pressure off to determine how efficient the combustion process is. You also affect how much reversion occurs going up the intake port by opening the intake valve earlier or later.
 

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sorry if this is a dumb question, but wouldnt it be a good idea to use the cam gears to increase at top end, and use a vtec controller to power the lower end? or visa versa? Or if its even possible to use vtec controller with cam gears.
 

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what are you saying? use the cam gears to make more top end and lower the vtec point to make more low end power? If it is I can see where you are coming but lowering the vtec to say 3000 RPMs would actually make less power than the non-vtec lobes do at that point. Adjusting the vtec point a little bit can help squeeze a couple of HP out but too much will do more harm than good. The cams are designed to work with the stock crossover point for max power.
 

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01IGSR on Oct/12/02 said:
Or if its even possible to use vtec controller with cam gears.
You mean a v-afc? Yes. You may use both vafc and cam gears together. In fact you're buying adjustable cam gears its probably a good idea to get some sort of controller to alter the fuel mixture and vtec activation so that you can tune the cam gear settings.

As we have said numerous times....just dropping cam gears or any other internal mod for that matter into your car and not tuning it won't allow you to see the maximum potential of that mod. In fact in some cases not tuning a particular mod may actually give you less power than before.

So the word of the day is TUNING. Repeat after me: tune. tune tune tune.
 

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Tuning with the VAFC fuel settings needs a dyno and it basically uses an exhaust gas O2 sensor (hopefully a wideband one) as a compass to give you air:fuel ratios at each rpm continuously on a dyno graph. The torque curve (not the hp curve) will show your major powerband. It's easy to pick out. You choose rpm points where the torque dips or where it is not flat and near the peak torque. You then increase or decrease on the vafc fuel setting at those rpm points based on what the air:fuel ratios say. The a:f ratio provides you a "no guess" guide to increase or decrease and by how much. You look at the results which is the torque curve. Your endpoint is not a certain air:fuel ratio...it is the the way torque behaves. The end point is to keep the torque as close to the peak level as possible or as people say, "flatten" the torque curve out.

The cam gears shift or move your powerband and can improve it's level. The fuel settings can further improve that powerband and make it broader.

As Gvtec said, it's easy to do WOT tuning. The partial throttle tuning is the hard part.
 
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