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Discussion Starter #1
God I'm almost afraid to start this. And I'm sorry if its in the wrong forum. OK first off this is not about if you need or dont need the bypass valve, I know there are thousands of threads going around about that, so dont put it here!! OK I decided that for a new intake I would go with a cold air intake, but definatly get a bypass valve, just for the peace of mind (and no I didnt think my toaster would come to life and kill me in the year 2000). But I was told that most the power fron the cold air was lost once the bypass valve was put on. But this was no real proof for this, such as a dyno chart. Well the other day when I was flipping through channels I came across the show Hi Rev Tuners (and no I dont want opinions on this show either). Anyways they have a project Ford Focus (I know its not an Integra, but its the best I have to work with) wich they installed an AEM cold air intake with the bypass valve, then ran a dyno on it. They quickly showed the chart and it looked like anyother dyno chart without the valve. Also I pulled this from their site...
"First we started by getting a baseline by running it on the dyno. We got a run of 88 horsepower @ 6,000 rpm. Next we unloaded the dyno tuned AEM cold air intake system to make sure we had everything needed to complete the conversion. We decided to also install AEM bypass valves to prevent water from being ingested into the engine. ... We did another run on the dyno and came up with with a gain of nearly 7 horsepower"

Now correct me if I'm wrong but that much of a gain is good from that intake right, expecially with the bypass valve? So basically I wanna know if everyone thinks this is true or not, or have any other proof to throw at me. Because If I lost HP from the valve then I'll just go with the short ram. And if this gets out of hand, moderators, please delete it. Thanks.
 

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its not about peak HP, all about the power curve... Thats what a CAI does best, gives you more midrange power.
 

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If you want the bypass for your peace of mind, then go for it. Just keep in mind people have reported that the bypass causes turblence in the intake and reduces performance.

It am willing to bet it will perform better than the stock intake system even with a bypass valve.
 

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a run with and without the bypass valve on the dyno would be the thing to do...most report a 2-4 whp loss across the entire rpm range in tegs. of course, it will make more than stock even with the bypass valve. the more modified the engine, the bigger the effect of the valve on hp potential.
 

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screw cold air man, go ice box, I used to constantly worry about my CAI set up as well. Then I just decided ice box.
 

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not everyone is in your situation. some have already bought the cai. btw the icebox uses cold air but has a short ram. the japanese n1 guys run a system similar to the nascar cowl induction where they relocate the battery and run a short ram intake whose opening is at the cowl gap there (where the battery used to be) to draw in cold air that way. many ways of skinning a cat.
you can see pics of these over at hondavision.com's Tech Review Articles section (slow due to tech bandwidth difficulties being worked on and so if you have 56k be patient and let it load) in my "Intake Tech" article there.

does hydrolock happen? sure. if you are caught in a situation where water (not raindrops or snowfall please!) is deep enough to get up to the intake opening. an acura service manager told me that this happened recently in a teg with a STOCK intake system where the area around the resonator was cracked and the person was stuck in a deep puddle up to the height of the middle of his wheel. the water just flowed into the system through the intake opening and crack around the resonator and submerged the induction system. the block cracked from one end to the other. it's not just happening in a cai. it's the situation you find yourself in that promotes hydrolock. i know this sounds like a "people kill people not guns" analogy but the hydrolock paranoia with cai's is a bit overstated. you have to be in the right conditions for it to happen. does this situation happen frequently or rarely in a blue moon? if you live in hurricane and flood areas then a bypass valve would be smart. if you live in nevada it would not. so can we please put some perspective into this discussion rather than stir up more fear mongering?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I need a new intake, and why I chose the cold air intake is the boost in midrange power, since I dont have v-tec. But, like I said before, I will get the bypass valve with it. My plans are to just go with the basic bolt ones, i/h/e, and then suspension upgrades, and get as much midrange power as possible (my budget isnt huge either about $800 - $900, wich I think is reasonable for bolt ons. So am I looking at just as much a preformance gain with a short ram intake as a CAI with the valve??? I know short rams give better results at high rps's but unless I'm racing or having fun my rpm's dont reach over 5km. And I would love to go with the ice box, its best of both worlds. I just dont have the money, and I would kinda like the groul produced by another intake. So if anyone has any more opinions on what I should get, or the last post I made, the help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow, well I'm not so confused anymore, thanks Mike, I think I may just go with the Injen one that can be converted to and from a CAI to a short ram. I had no idea they even made those. Thanks again everyone.
 

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Great info Michael. My question is, does anyone know where I can but a 2.5 in rubber coupler for my intake? The owner before me got the Bypass Valve and I really don't need it. I figured I could put a coupler over the cut in the intake to make it like stock. I tried home depot and a plumbing store, but 2.5 is a very uncommon size. I think AEM makes one, but where do they sell there products?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK new problem, I cant seem to find that Injen CAI. I looked at their website, and they had s short ram for $180 then a CAI extension for antoher $80 but thtas just to much money. I did find an Injen one on modacar.com if you look its the first Injen on there, about the 10th item down, is that it, its in two parts. I hope it is, its only $130 and thats about what I wanted to spend.
 

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With the way the Arospeed CAI is designed in front of the car like that I could believe it. I can't even imagine how much crap must get into an engine with one of those.
 

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arospeed has 2 types of cai:


one is like an aem or injen...

one is the FMIS....

driving in the rain with a filter on, how can you get enough water in for hydrolock from a rainstorm? I drive in heavy rain all the time. so I can't see how the top one would allow enough in if it is protected behond a splashguard. The second one would have to pool enough water in that intercooler like box. the water and air hit that intercooler at right angles (perpendicular) and there are so many 90 degree bends in it that the intake flow speed is next to nothing. the FMIS does nto generate enough intake flow speed and it does not have a velocity stack...so in fact, it's poor design actually prevents water flow up the intake tube while driving.

Now in either of these cases, if the opening was submerged, in a pool of water then hydroock is likely but while driving?....as I said, sounds far-fetched. Not saing you're lying...but there are other causes for a rod to go through a block in 3 places: it's called detonation or a spun rod bearing.
 

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elitevapor on Sep/19/02 said:
So basically I wanna know if everyone thinks this is true or not, or have any other proof to throw at me. Because If I lost HP from the valve then I'll just go with the short ram. And if this gets out of hand, moderators, please delete it. Thanks.
I got some theory to throw at ya. Lets look at physics.

Flowing air will take the easiest path of resistance. Conduit flow velocity (air speed in a certain direction, in this case, into and out the engine) becomes faster with smaller diameter and, more importantly, tubing length.

The only reason the long length tubing desgin (found in AEM, CP, Injen and Arospeed CAI's) holds such an advantage over the short ram intakes is because of it's length, NOT the "cold" air that is being sucked in.

CAI's produce a hump in the torque curve. An SRI does not. A CAI can get air moving faster at earlier RPM's than the SRI. The SRI needs to wait till WAY later to get air moving like this.

From personal experience, I went from the 3" APC SRI, which basically made my Gs-R (with no other modifications) gutless before the 6k-8k rpm powerband. I recently installed a 2.75" CP CAI and the difference is there. And, yes, those are butt dyno's....
I did do some acceleration testing but damnit if I remember the results.

Back to our previous statement: "Air flow takes the easiest path of resistance".

With that in mind we look at an AEM CAI with the bypass valve. In fact, I won't go any further. Use your head. You are killing intake flow velocity and setting it back to a later RPM. You had better hope that the bypass valve also has the same filtering quality of that K&N filter.

Want more?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I understood and physics of that, but I didnt know how great the loss would be, it might have been a fraction of HP, not even enough to notice. Thats why I was asking for something like a dyno chart. But like they said a 7 hp gain is decent I think from a CAI with the bypass valve. Then Mike showed me his artical wich did clear some things up. And I have decided I am against the valve completly, and have decided to go with the Injen I have found. If its the one that can be converted back and forth from a CAI to a SRI. Anyone know???
 

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Sounds good to me. Use the SRI if you're scared to death of water for daily driver use or whenever it rains. Then add the additional length for track purposes. But I tell you what. I have a CAI and I have no problems here. Guess what? I live in Louisiana, the flood capital.

If you are SOOOOO paranoid about getting water sucked in then try this. It's a little doo hicky I thought up of. It's amazing the things you can think of when you pull your head out of your ass and the hype!

Build an airbox around the filter on the CAI. Have an intake horn (this is similar to that of the Comptech Icebox) going from the box to some point that is causing the air horn to face oncoming air inside the mouth of the bumper. Then, make a u-shaped dip in the tubing going from the air horn to the air box. This u-shaped dip will catch water if any by some miracle should make it in.

I've had some trips to Home Depot but I haven't done this project just yet. I don't want to invest the $$ since I'm busy with other things. But I still do walk around Home Depot, looking for ideas. Perhaps you can do this and make a DIY
 
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