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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Here is a quick video that I just put together:






Turns out valve cover warped when 10AN fittings were welded. I am not having any luck with the welders that I hire...If don't figure out how to stop the leak I will remove it together with the catch can and install 45-degree slash cut on the exhaust to release positive crank case pressure.
 

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Sorry for not post the picture, at work
But I don't remember seeing to retorque the head studs after installation in the instructions.
Why would that be nesscary?
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Googled:

1. Retorquing is typically done to compensate for the head gasket taking a set, usually after running & heat cycling.
2. Typically it is best to retorque bolts when they are new. This actually smooths out the threads whch can result in a slight additional movement as you noted, due to less thread friction. Many bolt manufacturers recommend retorquing on new critical fasteners.
3. Its a bad idea to do if this is a high HP application (forced induction or nitrous).
When you retorque, only loosen 1 bolt at a time & retorque it in 3 steps as recommended. Do not loosen all & retighten. As an FYI, I only typically see the long head bolts change position during a retorque. The short ones do not seem to change as much.

 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Still considering re-torqueing the head studs...

Thats what the guy told me when I called ARP. He said that for the best results I need to run engine through 1 heat cycle and re-torque the studs. That sure is alot of work, having to remove the timing and cams. I also talked to my friend Mark, he confirmed ARPs suggestion..
 

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Thats what the guy told me when I called ARP. He said that for the best results I need to run engine through 1 heat cycle and re-torque the studs. That sure is alot of work, having to remove the timing and cams. I also talked to my friend Mark, he confirmed ARPs suggestion...
your right about the amount of work, i really dont want to do mine because i dont like removing ****. never was a fan of moving my cams because i dont want to mess it up. i had my mechanic install my timing belt i guys ill see what i can do on my own.

i havent done it yet and i have about 6k miles on my rebuilt motor and its been retuned...maybe i should do it when i install my turbo.
all i have to do it bring it to TDC and then loosen the tensioner and slide belt off and remove the cam stuff and check the tq valve. when i installed my bolts my digital reader was hitting about 80-83 ft lb
 

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here are instructions in pdf
doesnt mention about retorquing the studs anywhere

some people do it other dont
http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/208-4601.pdf
how do i install arp head studs? the propper way - Honda-Tech

first link is from arp and the second is from h-t

truthfully retorquing any bolt/stud/nut isnt always a good thing. you can stress the joint it is connected to. the first time you install the item it should set itself. can you check the tq value before you decide to up the spec on each stud. i would like to know if it changed or not. but if the studs have lost there spec (which they shouldnt have) then something can be wrong with the joint or maybe the stud. thats just my theory, i work with parts all the time, thats what i do at my job.
 

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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
Guys, please join me in welcoming a new comer! My friend HB_RIder. I waited a long time for him to join and today he finally signed up! He owns Integra's cousin 1997 Honda Civic Hatch Si clone with a swaped JDM B16 engine and GSR trany. Its an eye catcher... Currently his daily driver. It has some body work in progress, getting ready to be re-painted Si blue. Alex welcome!
 

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Guys, please join me in welcoming a new comer! My friend HB_RIder. I waited a long time for him to join and today he finally signed up! He owns Integra's cousin 1997 Honda Civic Hatch Si clone with a swaped JDM B16 engine and GSR trany. Its an eye catcher... Currently his daily driver. It has some body work in progress, getting ready to be re-painted Si blue. Alex welcome!
but he drives a civic :-/

nice work on the valve cover mang!
correction nice recovery
 

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np
just as long as you tq the studs to spec the first time you shouldnt have an issue
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Ill just keep my fingers crossed on the 5 ft-lb undertorque... I guess the reason my tuner suggested it was because in his opinion that is alot of stress on the aluminum threads of the block, since original head bolts are torqued to only 65 ft-lb (if I can remember right). But then again, ARP must have considered that these particular studs were not meant to be used cast iron engine, otherwise those guys would have been out of business by now... Interesting to find out if the part # of these studs are also a match for any cast iron engines (I doubt it), just to see a torque load varies between the two.
 
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