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Alright when I turn on my car it shoots to about 3k, then it will drop to 1k then back up to 2.2k and it will keep going from 1k-2.2k.. When I let it roll by its self in gear it will raise to 2k then drop like someone slammed on the brakes to 1k and then raise again to 2k. and it will do this over and over.. When I hold the gas lightly it will jerk like crazy. If I take the TPS off it will run fine except the idle will be at 3.5. If i try to adjust the idle screw nothing happens. If i take the IAC it think that thing behind the manfifold off it will have a very lopey idle like a V8 sounds cool but not driveable. any ideas? This happened after I put a 91 manifold + PnP head on. I have a 92 LS.
 

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You might have to adjust your TPS sensor? If you have a factory manual, it should tell you what voltages the TPS sensor should read at closed and WOT throttle.
 

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Uhh adjust the TPS sensor? TPS sensor is connected to the TB right?
 

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i have the same problem in my current car (91 olds wagon), only its really only noticable in park. sometimes if i discconnect the sensor on the air filter (is that a mass air sensor??) it fixes it, but it runs like sh*t when its cold out. hmm
 

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I mean I've been living with this sh*t for about 6 months and its really getting to me... I think I might just buy some crower 404s just to fix the problem.
 

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heres how I fixed it... pull off your plug wires from the distributor. ensure your tach cable is fully seated, clean and gap your plugs, then reinstall your plug wires. use di-electric grease too. then check your o2 sensor wire. un hook it, ensure it is clean then plug it back together. if you have never replaced your o2 sensor you might want to do that.
 

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Hey its your fast idle valve or cold idle valve it may have went bad like the one on my 91' did I fixed the problem with a jimmy rig . Dose it hold a high idle when cold then starts acting funny when it warms up . the valve let more air pass the throttel plate so the car can heat up and once it reaches a set temp then the valve soppose to close but your dosen't close the cpu reads this as a error causes it see to much air in the manafold so the air to fuel ratio is out of wack so the cpu tries to fix the problem with more fuel so thats why the engine speed gose up and down in a loop. write me I Can help you fix this problem for free just by using suff around the house ..
 

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the reason this is happening is because you are not getting a GOOD connection on your igniter. Those connections have to be TIGHT! Also, dielectric grease will help a ToN! This is how you fix the problem.

Remove your distributor cap. If you still have the dist shield in place under the cap, then you will have to remove the rotor, and the shield. If your shield is already gone, you do not need to remove the rotor. When looking down onto the distributor, you will see the coil, the rotor, and some wires leading to a small, brown thing. This is the igniter. There will be 4 connections. 1 on the side, and 3 on top. Honda uses spade connectors to make these connections to the igniter. Remove, and work on only oNE CoNNECTOR AT A TIME. Take each connector, and with it removed from the igniter, place it in the needle-nose pliers and crimp down a little tighter on the spade connector. Then put a dab of dielectric grease inside the spade connector. Then put the connector back on the igniter. The connection should be very tight. Do this with all the connections to the igniter. Replace the rotor (if you removed it) and then the cap. Then, under the fuse panel under the hood, remove the ECU and Hazard fuses for about 60 seconds. Replace both, and restart the car WITHOUT touching the gas. Let it run for 60 seconds without ANY accessories on. Then after 60 seconds, turn ALL the accessories on and let it run for 60 seconds. Turn the car off, restart it, and go have fun.

I was having this very same problem with my 92 GSR. After trial and error I found this to be the problem. I fixed it the first time without dielectric grease. The problem came back a few days later. I then redid the procedure and used dielectric grease. It has now been one month, no problems. Also, I did pick up a power gain as well.
I found this on another site hope it helps
 

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My Teg did the exact same thing. My solution, replaced the faulty EACV valve on my Teg in the Spring. It's located on the intake manifold, near the throttle body and it points towards the firewall.

Got a used one off a 98 Civic for 20$ CDN.
 

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It sounds like the deceleration fuel cut circuit is operating when it shouldn't be. Is the check engine light on? If so, what are the codes? Did you adjust the idle speed following the article? Have you adjusted the TPS and checked for vacuum leaks? I believe your model has an EACV as well as a cold fast idle or thermo-valve; thermo-valve being mechanical (just like a thermostat), cold fast idle valve being electrical (I might not have these names quite right). Check these for proper operation. Does the '91 manifold have the same idle control setup as the '92? Get a Helms manual.
 

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try the fast idle flve
 

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Fast idle vavle doesn't cause the irratic RPMs, it's the EAVC valve (shop manual calls it IAC Valve).

My fast idle valve was faulty too, but it kept the RPMs steady at 1500 RPM when warm.
 

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I'm Having the same kind of problem. BUt sometimes the idle jumps and stays at 1500 it has a same kind of wierd throttle response. But i turn off the car and turn it back on then the engine would be bouncing again. I don't know how to fix it. Can anyone help suggest. I think it is probly the distributor is clogged or i got to clean the gaps.
 

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this happened to my 92 gsr and i replace the fast idol valve which was located underneath the throttle body. everything started to idol smoothly.
 

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Can anyone tell me why after my car warms up, it start to idle low and it stay like that far like 5 minutes. The car shakes but when I drive it , it's fine. It has full power. After a while the check engine light turns on and the car starts to idle fine. Why does the car idle fine after the check engine light turns on. Could it be a sensor?
Oh yeah, I have a 92 Gsr B17.
 

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Your'e posting this on a very old post, but normally your ride would idle high to warm up. And you said the car shakes? How? upon acceleration? Braking? I would check the motor mounts first-if possible- to see if they are worn or broken.
 
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