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Here is what the GSR p/s line looks like for those wondering, and yes this can come out with all the rest.





Since the LS doesn't have that, it's looped off with a small piece of hose and that is the "built in LS hose" that Melt mentions on the original post
 

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Now that I have my fully depowered rack in I can talk about it.

The steering rack was a pain in the **** to get out and in. I'll say that much. I even had the transmission/rear mount out because I swapped in a low km GSR one.

So I got the rack pressed out and took the piston off. Greased the whole rack, put it in, greased the pinion. Reinstalled inner tie-rods, new tie-rod ends.

I have some play in the center now (about half an inch each way but the tires do move with that movement) which may be from the adjustment bolt (torqued to spec from helms manual) maybe it needs to be tighter because it's a rack pulled from a 250k car? I'm not sure. I also DO have a bad left wheel bearing which I will be pressing in shortly once I remove the knuckle. I'll see if that fixes my slop.

The steering itself is ridiculously lighter compared to looped lines. Feels like power steering almost when moving above 2nd gear, even at a standstill it's a lot easier to turn but still maintains a bit of rigidity that the looped rack possessed. I definitely like it a lot better and I can finally palm my turns and whatnot. If you want a project I do recommend it if you have nothing better to do but it's a lot of work and you do need a press to push the rack out of the steering box as stated in the helms manual.

this is because you're not pushing hydraulic fluid through the rack. I have a manual rack and subframe from an EG (lighter and the turning ratio is smaller than integra power steering racks) and I love it. it just sucks when you have 225/50 r16 tires =P
 

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Here us a pic on my bypass w/ breather that I did over the weekend

Saw a few pages ago someone saying the low pressure fitting was a ton son-of-a-b--tch to get off... mine was too, but using flare wrenches with a short breaker bar made it so much easier

 

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this is because you're not pushing hydraulic fluid through the rack. I have a manual rack and subframe from an EG (lighter and the turning ratio is smaller than integra power steering racks) and I love it. it just sucks when you have 225/50 r16 tires =P
After driving w/ it. I can't imagine going back =]
 

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So after reading this post and doing a little research it seems a much better way to do the delete would be to create a loop between the two lines from the valve on the PS rack to each side of the PS piston. When you do a loop like in the DIY it eliminates the power steering pump but fluid still needs to be forced through the valve on the rack itself so bypassing that valve would give much less resistance and be not much more difficult than creating the loop in the DIY.

Handy diagram to illustrate my thoughts:

 

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Does anyone have any suggestions for fuel hose to use for the needed loop? I have a GSR, so don't have the "handy loop built in". Ive tried a few different lengths of fuel injection hose, which fits the barbs perfect, but am having a hard time to not get the hose to kink on me. Or is there maybe another pre-curved hose I could pick up for cheap somewhere?
 

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I'd suggest getting a longer piece of that hose, more room to not kink

Another option may be pick up a breather like i have (pic last page), which takes out the need for any loops of hose.... plus added bonus if you ever decide to track/auto-x the car you will pass inspection if they check for a ventilated system



.
 

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Thanks for posting the part number, i added it to the first post of this topic
Hope this isn't too stupid of a q but what do I do with the line that feeds the pump? Right now it's kinda just hanging there on my valvecover, seems to be no place to disconnect it so do I just cut it off and plug it at the firewall?
 

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Hope this isn't too stupid of a q but what do I do with the line that feeds the pump? Right now it's kinda just hanging there on my valvecover, seems to be no place to disconnect it so do I just cut it off and plug it at the firewall?

Shouldn't be anything left to plug. You may be missing the removal of the retention clips / bolts along the shock tower or on top of the subframe. Once all bolts and clips are removed it'll fall right out.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Removing only the belt it's hard as hell to turn.

When you get most of the PS oil out of the rack and loop it on itself you aren't forcing oil back through the system so it feels just like a manual civic rack.
Hello, so I ended up looping it as you said but I notice my steering wheel has a lot of slack now for some reason. So now I’m wondering is there a way to get air bubbles out of the rack and which end do I feed the power steering fluid through. Thanks
 
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