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I do not think that removing PS pump will stop your leak. eventually all of your fluid may leak out. But without a pump, there will be no pressure inside the rack forcing fluid past the seals.


on a side note.. I did this a few years ago and I wondered if anyone else had problems with the steering wheel tilt adjustment coming undone?
 

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Discussion Starter #142
My rack and pinion boot is torn and leaking ps fluid, which makes me guess that the seals inside the rack have gone bad, if I remove the ps altogether, will this stop the leak? Or should I go ahead and just change the rack and pinion?
No this wont stop your issue.

It would be a bad idea to remove PS - because there is a leak in your rack. You get dirt and grime in there and the rack could fail while you're driving in a bad way and cause you to crash.
 

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So the other day I found a '96 Teggy at a junkyard with it's engine removed so I took the rack for ****s and giggles. Cost me 30$.

Today with the help of a shop a friend works at, I managed to remove the tie rods, valve housing (can't do **** with it since it needs to be pressed out and personally don't want to bother with it), pressed out the rack/end seal and grinded/chiseled off the piston surrounding the power cylinder. I'm going to be putting on new inner tie rods and this summer when putting an insert on my motor mount, and will put this rack on my own Teggy.

When it heats up around here and I replace the rack, I'll give my own opinion on a depowered vs. looped rack (since I've been running looped for about 4/5 months now).

Cheers.
 

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I did my power steering delete last week. I was looking at the steering rack and thought of something; for people that don't have the loop from the lines of an LS, you could just plug the inlet and outlet with the appropriate size bolts and copper washers. Then just get a six inch piece of hose ( like transmission cooler hose) and splice it in between the hard lines that go to each side of the rack. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that should accomplish the same thing as looping it at the inlet/outlet. This way, you could even put in a tee for those that want a breather. It would be a little more difficult to reach the hard lines than putting on the loop, but I figured it was an option nonetheless. I'll be pulling my engine and trans soon, so I might give this a try. Just my 2 cents......:rolleyes:
 

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I did my power steering delete last week. I was looking at the steering rack and thought of something; for people that don't have the loop from the lines of an LS, you could just plug the inlet and outlet with the appropriate size bolts and copper washers. Then just get a six inch piece of hose ( like transmission cooler hose) and splice it in between the hard lines that go to each side of the rack. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that should accomplish the same thing as looping it at the inlet/outlet. This way, you could even put in a tee for those that want a breather. It would be a little more difficult to reach the hard lines than putting on the loop, but I figured it was an option nonetheless. I'll be pulling my engine and trans soon, so I might give this a try. Just my 2 cents......:rolleyes:
Why they loop the inlet/outlet of the valve housing could also be to bypass the pump for those that do not remove it. The pump will restrict flow when turning the wheel.

Also I don't know what you're referring to about my LS. It has loop lines on it. I tee'd the inlet/outlet and added a breather to it. I'd rather loop the inlet and outlet though because you don't want to shoot all the fluid out of the power cylinder section unless you remove that piston from the power cylinder and grease it because the p/s fluid lubricates the end seals still.
 

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I was referring to the rubber loop hose, since the GSR has a steel loop that extends in front of the rad for cooling. Yes, I agree with you on the rack lube. I'm gonna get the excess fluid out first through the inlet/outlet the way it's described in earlier in this thread. Then I will cap off the inlet/outlet before I tap into the hard lines, that way I won't lose too much fluid.
 

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A few things that are unclear going through this thread:
In the original instructions melt said turn the wheel all the way left then all the way right, he said he did that a few times
Later someone asked if they should just turn it all the way left then all the way right only once and melt replied yes
Also some people concerned about enough fluid being left in the rack , stating that there was no more fluid coming out, there wasnt really a response for that .
Anybody have any feedback?
I just like to be as prepared as I can before attempting something (although the original instructions were perfect and made everything seem very simple)
 

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turn the wheel lock to locl a few times to get excess fluid out while you are doing removal. otherwise, on the street when you turn, fluid will be foced out all over your engine bay.

I did this removal over a year ago to my daily driver. I think there is no way to get all the fluid out, so yes there is enough left to lubricate the rack. really the main reason for PS fluid is for the pressure of the pump to assist in moving fluid from one side of gear to the other.

I do however wonder if a civic manual rack needs to be lubricated at intervals?
 

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Discussion Starter #150
A few things that are unclear going through this thread:
In the original instructions melt said turn the wheel all the way left then all the way right, he said he did that a few times
Later someone asked if they should just turn it all the way left then all the way right only once and melt replied yes
Also some people concerned about enough fluid being left in the rack , stating that there was no more fluid coming out, there wasnt really a response for that .
Anybody have any feedback?
I just like to be as prepared as I can before attempting something (although the original instructions were perfect and made everything seem very simple)
Turn it lock to lock a few times. This will force most of the fluid out of the rack. The rest of the fluid you want to keep in there to keep things lubed. It's really this easy. Don't overthink it.
 

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ps gone!
Love it , feels like my old cx
Note: it's a lot easier to remove the lines from the bay if the cruise control box is removed
Thanks for a perfect write up!
 

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Hopefully gonna be doing this this afternoon after work, already got a fitting for it, Ill take some before/after pics and put them up in my log, already stripped a.c. c.c. and washer fluid reservoir from the engine bay, guy I met this weekend in his civic had everything deleted, theres just so much more room for activities! Great write-up Meltman
 

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Hopefully gonna be doing this this afternoon after work, already got a fitting for it, Ill take some before/after pics and put them up in my log, already stripped a.c. c.c. and washer fluid reservoir from the engine bay, guy I met this weekend in his civic had everything deleted, theres just so much more room for activities! Great write-up Meltman
Good luck!

 

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Hopefully gonna be doing this this afternoon after work, already got a fitting for it, Ill take some before/after pics and put them up in my log, already stripped a.c. c.c. and washer fluid reservoir from the engine bay, guy I met this weekend in his civic had everything deleted, theres just so much more room for activities! Great write-up Meltman
Did you gut your evap box? My heater blows like a ************ after I got rid of it lol.
 

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Now that I have my fully depowered rack in I can talk about it.

The steering rack was a pain in the **** to get out and in. I'll say that much. I even had the transmission/rear mount out because I swapped in a low km GSR one.

So I got the rack pressed out and took the piston off. Greased the whole rack, put it in, greased the pinion. Reinstalled inner tie-rods, new tie-rod ends.

I have some play in the center now (about half an inch each way but the tires do move with that movement) which may be from the adjustment bolt (torqued to spec from helms manual) maybe it needs to be tighter because it's a rack pulled from a 250k car? I'm not sure. I also DO have a bad left wheel bearing which I will be pressing in shortly once I remove the knuckle. I'll see if that fixes my slop.

The steering itself is ridiculously lighter compared to looped lines. Feels like power steering almost when moving above 2nd gear, even at a standstill it's a lot easier to turn but still maintains a bit of rigidity that the looped rack possessed. I definitely like it a lot better and I can finally palm my turns and whatnot. If you want a project I do recommend it if you have nothing better to do but it's a lot of work and you do need a press to push the rack out of the steering box as stated in the helms manual.
 

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Do I also remove that big line that goes into the top of the pump then runs into the rack with the sensor attached to it? I have a 99 gsr
That indeed can come all the way out
 
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