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I've seen a lot of power steering removal threads on this site but no one has covered the best - NO CUTTING - reversible power steering delete method so I will.

You need:
citrus3000psi on Mar/01/11 said:
FYI, this part has the correct metric size 14x1.5 threads and cheap....
This metric to hose barb fitting Parker 68HB-6-M114 3/8xm14x1.5x3/4hex Hose Barb To Adapter

OR

A 1/4" NPT threaded 3/8" hose barb from the hardware store in the plumbing section and a roll of Teflon tape. Total cost is about $5




First remove all the junk. I pulled the pump first. No matter what you do you're going to make a huge mess so be ready for oil all over the floor. Pump OUT




Then unbolt all the lines (This removal is on an LS. The GSR/R have an oil cooler that runs up front that will also need to be removed. You'll have to pull the bumper to remove the oil cooler on the GSR/R models.








Down in by the "T" bracket next to the rack:




With the lines loose remove the hose and from the rack and remove the high pressure side line/fitting




After you've removed the lines from the rack:

Get in the car and slowly turn the wheel lock to lock in both directions a couple of times. This will move most of the oil out of the rack making it easier to turn but leave enough to keep the rack lubricated full time. I'm serious when I say slowly! Turn the wheel fast and PS oil will come shooting out like a whale's blow hole.


Compare the threads of your NPT barb with the OEM metric threads. The threads are SUPER close to each other and you wont damage the rack threading the 1/4 NPT threads into it.




Wrap it up with lots of teflon tape




Now you're left with this beautiful setup:




on LS models you have a PERFECT piece of hose to loop the rack with. GSR/R models you'll have to go buy a piece of fuel hose from the parts store. If you need to get this piece of hose, it's Part Number "53735-SR3-960HOSE, OIL COOLER RETURN"




Boom, Done





No cutting.
No harming of any component of the system.
You can put it back with ease if you want to.

* OPTIONAL STEP * You may want to add a breather to your loop if you want the steering action to be even easier. Pick up a 3/8" hose barb tee from the hardware store and splice it into your loop on the rack. Run the extra barb to your breather. I never added a breather to any of the cars I've done so I dont know how much easier (if any) it is to turn with a breather setup on there.


This exact setup was used on my first green teg that my brother now owns.
It now has 100,000 miles without power steering on it with no ill effects.
 

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Leave it to MeltMan, the DIY master, to give us simple directions , w/ great pictures, on how to do things right. I lol'ed when I saw the stick/hand. I removed my power steering when I first bought my car. Not by choice though, I f'ed up my pump and thought looping the lines was more cost effective then buying a new pump. The only thing I did different was I left my reservoir and ran a line from the reservoir to rack. I know leaving the reservoir is pointless but I didn't want to go through the hassle of removing the lines.
 
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funniest. pointer. ever. i deff want to remove my power steering now.
so you just T off that loop and add a breather to it? kinda confused there.
how much of a difference between power steering and a vented [breather] deleted PS?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
UrbanB on Jul/12/10 said:
T off that loop and add a breather to it?
how much of a difference between power steering and a vented [breather] deleted PS?
Yep.

Dont know, never added a breather to any of my setups. I know some guys like to and that's where you should add it if you want to.

I doubt it would make it much easier (if any) to add a breather. You're just moving air through the loop anyway without a breather on it.
 

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already got rid of ABS AC and CC might as well ditch the PS. an hour is nothing compared to that damn ABS delete with the motor/battery mount still in..
 

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Nice Melt. I've seen so many DIY's on this and this one looks legit. Question though, how much easier is the turning doing this rather than just removing the p.s. belt? I tried just removing the belt and it was pretty hard to turn and felt unstable, im guessing because im forcing the fluid myself? Thanks
 

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Thank god someone made it look easy! I was planing to do this, this winter due to the pump not working, my father who is a professional mechanic told me how to do it but It just got alot easier with these pictures. Thanks Meltman!
 

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zrk808 on Jul/12/10 said:
Nice Melt. I've seen so many DIY's on this and this one looks legit. Question though, how much easier is the turning doing this rather than just removing the p.s. belt? I tried just removing the belt and it was pretty hard to turn and felt unstable, im guessing because im forcing the fluid myself? Thanks
this is another question i had ha
 

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yes! this is perfect! i've been waiting for someone to post up a good way to do this. I've been rockin every ps part but the belt for like 6 months now. time to go rip it all out!
 

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UrbanB on Jul/12/10 said:
Quote: zrk808 on Jul/12/10Nice Melt. I've seen so many DIY's on this and this one looks legit. Question though, how much easier is the turning doing this rather than just removing the p.s. belt? I tried just removing the belt and it was pretty hard to turn and felt unstable, im guessing because im forcing the fluid myself? Thanks

this is another question i had ha
Correct. You're forcing the fluid through the small hole in the PS pump. With the pump gone, you get a much better feel for the road.

Or so I've read... haven't done this (yet). This looks great!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
zrk808 on Jul/12/10 said:
Question though, how much easier is the turning doing this rather than just removing the p.s. belt?
Removing only the belt it's hard as hell to turn.

When you get most of the PS oil out of the rack and loop it on itself you aren't forcing oil back through the system so it feels just like a manual civic rack.
 
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