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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Kinda long post, get yourself some coffee.


Alright, i've done as much homework with the search on TI as possile. Alright heres the scoop.
About a couple of weeks ago i was driving to school on the highway and i was kinda pushing my car a lil (5krpm max) til i had to get off at my exit. Then i noticed that my car started running very choppy at idle, like 500 rpms or so and it studders like crazy.
I skipped school and decided to go to my garage to take a look at whats goin on. i did a basic plug test, pulled all the plugs out (bostch platnum 4+) looked fine. then while i let the car idle i pulled plug wires out one by one. i noticed a significant change on all chambers when i pulled out a plug a replaced it except for chamber number four. no change. still ran crappy.
So i pulled out all the plugs and replaced them with bostch platnum + plugs and replaced the cap and rotor figuring it was time for it anyways, no changes. I pulled the plugs out again to see whats goin on and all the plugs except for number 4 are kinda blackened.
Its not burning anything funny when it idles or revs up a lil, like antifreeze or oil. It get the normal hissing noise it get out of the intake when it idles. I checked the valve lash adjustments and on intake and exhaust its at 0.009-0.010 inches. could this be the problem for the choppiness of my car? or did i bend a valve or eat a piston rings or something?
Me and my friend are gonna do an exhaust patch up job on his galant VR4 over the weekend and do a compression test as well on my car. what should i pay close attention to. My car is a 94 teg GSR w/ 195k-miles on it.
 

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first off the cars run better with NGK plugs then bosch bosch is made for domestics try some NGK and see how they work for you then adjust the idle with the screw on the throttle body that might help to fix the problem
 

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do a compression test.it will tell you if you have a bad valve or not. hondas/acuras run better on NGK's but it will still run fine(not choppy)with bosch plugs. this sounds like a prob. i had with my old 95 civic where one of the plug wire ends disintegrated in the dis.cap and caused erratic idle and studdering in the power band. so you mind want to check that. alot of times it is something small. good luck


zer0
 

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sounds to me like #4 is losing its power stroke. you'll notice a significant rpm drop at idle and the car will shake pretty badly. since cylinder #4 obviously doesn't have any ignition source and all the other cylinders do, andyou just replace the cap and bug, take an ohmeter, disconnect your #4 cylinder secondary wire (spark plug wire), and check the wire for continuity. if your meter reads "open lead" (OL) you need to replace the wire and probably go ahead and replace the other three as well. also check for the positioning of the #4 wire in the engine compartment and make sure its not hanging down onto a hot component which could melt the wire, namely the exhaust manifold. hope i helped...
 

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You know what?!? It may just be your #4 plug wire by what you said. I can't imagine you bending a valve under those conditions.
Just rotate your plug wires and do the same test again. If you put the #4 plug wire on #3 and now 3 has no changes when you pull the wire off then you have a bad wire, happens all of the time.
Good luck
 

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GS-Racer on Feb/20/04 said:
You know what?!? It may just be your #4 plug wire by what you said. I can't imagine you bending a valve under those conditions.
Just rotate your plug wires and do the same test again. If you put the #4 plug wire on #3 and now 3 has no changes when you pull the wire off then you have a bad wire, happens all of the time.
Good luck
thats what i was gonna say. you said you cahnged the plugs, cap, & rotor, but you didn't say if you changed the wires.

if you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance on the wires. there should be very little.

only way you'd bend a valve is if you over-revved the engine a lot and it floated and hit the piston.

it could also be a fuel problem. check your fuel pressure out, and check out your injectors by testing their resistance (i think thats the way to do it... check out a helms book for sure and to get the specs you need). 195K miles on a original injector can be quite a bit.

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
alright, we did a compression test and as it turns out i did indeed bend a valve and im gonna have to put new valves and springs in at some point.

Few questions though, whats the benefit of having oversized valves by like 1mm or .5mm even?

To use these do i need any sort of machining done?

And what kind of springs should i use, single or double?

thanks guys.
 

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No expert, but I am just shooting from the hip here.

The benefit is increased air flow. But logically in order to get that increase flow, the head will need to be machined to match the valve size. So it isn't any easy task.

The oversized valves really aren't going to help you out too much. It would be better to get standard sized pistons.

Depends on what you want to spend. If I had loads of money I'd get the Skunk2 High-Compression (or Standard Compression, depending on if you plan for boost) valves and valvesprigns. A little on the expensive side, but they have all the things on em that I want.

But for the budget racer, I'd get some stock valves. As for springs, depends on what you want. If you plan on getting some radical cams in the future then you will need dual springs like the ITR or Skunk2 or something. But if you plan on running stock cams, then stock GS-R springs will work fine.

Of course, finding all the stock stuff for a good price is near impossible. So shop around.

I love T-I.net but the buy/sell/trade forum isn't as good as www.honda-tech.com. Good luck.
 

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compression test is done to check the ring seal.

a leakdown test is to check the valves.

do a leakdown test.

btw just an fyi to all of those of you who've never done a lash adjustment, you can't check & adjust your valve lash when the engine is hot. it gives you the wrong spec. you're supposed to adjust the lash when the engine is bone stone cold (minimum of 4 hr wait after the engine is shut off).

his problem isn't the brand of plug. you can gap it wider if it looks fouled but you should be able to read if there's oil getting into the chamber by reading the plug.

other items:

timing belt changed according to maintenance schedule yet?

fuel injectors cleaned and balanced yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
alright, i have determined that since im not buring anything like oil (which would indicate bad rings) or antifreeze ( which would indicate bad head gasket) its gotta be the valves.
 

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keeper13 on Feb/22/04 said:
alright, i have determined that since im not buring anything like oil (which would indicate bad rings) or antifreeze ( which would indicate bad head gasket) its gotta be the valves.
Don't make assumptions. Get a leak-down test done like MD suggested. It's not expensive so there is no reason not to.
 
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