Team Integra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,859 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, just looking for pics/info on relocating the battery...I know all about the 4ga or bigger wire, sanding to the metal for grounding, ect. ect....I'm just looking for some ideas, and batteries used..Is a dry cell neccessary because of the lack of ventilation? I will be using a dist. near the firewall for the fuse and starter power, and a circuit breaker near the battery itself, I will also be running remote posts coming out of the firewall for easy jumping....so any info or ideas on the best route for this is greatly appreciated...pics would be SWEET
thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,284 Posts
Hmm... I don't have any pictures... but I used 1 gauge cable, and ran the negative line up the passenger side of the car to the trunk, and the positive goes up the driver's side to the trunk. They're both underneath the carpet on the side of the seats.

I have a plain jane battery in a sealed box in the back, and there is a hole in the bottom of the box with a line going out underneath the car for ventilation.

I need to get an nice Moroso aluminum box that I can bolt down, because the plastic box I'm using is starting to crack from the weight of the battery. My trunk has a flimsy plastic piece that sits on the spare for support, and it's just not cutting it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,859 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
HeroOfTheDay on Apr/14/08 said:
Hmm... I don't have any pictures... but I used 1 gauge cable, and ran the negative line up the passenger side of the car to the trunk, and the positive goes up the driver's side to the trunk. They're both underneath the carpet on the side of the seats.

I have a plain jane battery in a sealed box in the back, and there is a hole in the bottom of the box with a line going out underneath the car for ventilation.

I need to get an nice Moroso aluminum box that I can bolt down, because the plastic box I'm using is starting to crack from the weight of the battery. My trunk has a flimsy plastic piece that sits on the spare for support, and it's just not cutting it.
from my understanding, your negative line should not be that long..the shortest route possible is generally your best bet...I've heard of running smaller wire(4ga eg.) from the neg. to the block, but thats in conjuction with the ground coming off the battery, which should be short, like to a bolt(free of paint) in your trunk, or somewhere on the chassis
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
640 Posts
rayzah_blade on Apr/14/08 said:
Quote: HeroOfTheDay on Apr/14/08Hmm... I don't have any pictures... but I used 1 gauge cable, and ran the negative line up the passenger side of the car to the trunk, and the positive goes up the driver's side to the trunk. They're both underneath the carpet on the side of the seats.
I have a plain jane battery in a sealed box in the back, and there is a hole in the bottom of the box with a line going out underneath the car for ventilation.

I need to get an nice Moroso aluminum box that I can bolt down, because the plastic box I'm using is starting to crack from the weight of the battery. My trunk has a flimsy plastic piece that sits on the spare for support, and it's just not cutting it.


from my understanding, your negative line should not be that long..the shortest route possible is generally your best bet...I've heard of running smaller wire(4ga eg.) from the neg. to the block, but thats in conjuction with the ground coming off the battery, which should be short, like to a bolt(free of paint) in your trunk, or somewhere on the chassis
yup, thats what ive always heard, there is a less chance of grounding out, ive heard people always say run it to the block, but i personally wouldnt. i would just ground it to the frame
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
ground wire is supposed to be grounded out. that is why they call it the ground wire.

It shouldn't be grounded in the factory location tho. I should be as short as possible so there is less resistance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,973 Posts
ground wire short and to a good grounding point

if you are ever going to run at the drag strip you will need a kill switch

also 2 or larger is best for helping voltage/current drop
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,284 Posts
95_se_ on Apr/14/08 said:
Quote: rayzah_blade on Apr/14/08 Quote: HeroOfTheDay on Apr/14/08 Hmm... I don't have any pictures... but I used 1 gauge cable, and ran the negative line up the passenger side of the car to the trunk, and the positive goes up the driver's side to the trunk. They're both underneath the carpet on the side of the seats.
I have a plain jane battery in a sealed box in the back, and there is a hole in the bottom of the box with a line going out underneath the car for ventilation.

I need to get an nice Moroso aluminum box that I can bolt down, because the plastic box I'm using is starting to crack from the weight of the battery. My trunk has a flimsy plastic piece that sits on the spare for support, and it's just not cutting it.

from my understanding, your negative line should not be that long..the shortest route possible is generally your best bet...I've heard of running smaller wire(4ga eg.) from the neg. to the block, but thats in conjuction with the ground coming off the battery, which should be short, like to a bolt(free of paint) in your trunk, or somewhere on the chassis

yup, thats what ive always heard, there is a less chance of grounding out, ive heard people always say run it to the block, but i personally wouldnt. i would just ground it to the frame
Woah, woah, woah guys... We have some serious misunderstanding here.

It's a 1 gauge cable going from the engine to the negative post on the battery, which is a more direct, less resistant route than it having to go all the way through the front of the chassis to the back of the car, where you guys think you should ground it...

In reality, every ground should be wired directly to the negative post. My negative running straight to the block is the best way to ground it. The positive current isn't coming from the chassis, it's coming from the battery.

Is it necessary, no. It'll work just fine grounded to the chassis, but that's just the way I did it.

Back on topic, I'll get some pictures of how I did it later... I'm going to revise my setup in the trunk, and I'll show you what it looks like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,859 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
not true, because the chassis acts as a ground, grounded by the block the chassis includes the WHOLE car frame, not just the front engine bay. if your battery is in your trunk, then your ground wire should ground close by
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,284 Posts
rayzah_blade on Apr/14/08 said:
not true, because the chassis acts as a ground, grounded by the block the chassis includes the WHOLE car frame, not just the front engine bay. if your battery is in your trunk, then your ground wire should ground close by
Yes, you're right, and you can do it that way without any problems, but you will lose some voltage. I'm just trying to point out that a short cable to the chassis will not provide less resistance than a cable directly from the negative post to the engine, like everyone is thinking. Direct cable beats sheet metal body anyday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,859 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
HeroOfTheDay on Apr/14/08 said:
Quote: rayzah_blade on Apr/14/08not true, because the chassis acts as a ground, grounded by the block the chassis includes the WHOLE car frame, not just the front engine bay. if your battery is in your trunk, then your ground wire should ground close by
Yes, you're right, and you can do it that way without any problems, but you will lose some voltage. I'm just trying to point out that a short cable to the chassis will not provide less resistance than a cable directly from the negative post to the engine, like everyone is thinking. Direct cable beats sheet metal body anyday.
agreed about the direct cable, but answer me this..where is the stock ground for your battery in the engine bay? because it is surely not on the block. it's on the metal, less than a foot away from the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
487 Posts
more than likely (my guessing), the theory is that if the ground cable to the negative post of the battery is as short as possible, then ALL circuits have the most direct return path to ground. it may simply just be cheaper to ground the battery real close at the frame, and just run a seperate cable from the frame to the engine.

as kasey states, though, as long as the block and frame are electrically connected, you can run (within reason... say, the total length of the car) a cable as long as you'd like (providing you're increasing gauge to account for voltage drop) from the negative post to the engine or the frame and it will be sufficient. he's using 1 gauge, which is pretty stout stuff, especially for our little 4-banger.

but, if, say, you run an amp and battery in the trunk, the positive cable runs directly from the battery so it's <3 feet long. but, if you ground the amp on the frame, then the power has to return all the way up the front of the frame, through the block-frame cable, then through the block, then through the ground cable back to the battery. there's probably several chances for noise to work it's way in there and muddy up the power a bit. of course, with the amp and battery that close, if you run a power wire direct, you may as well run the ground wire direct.

however, if the battery were grounded at the frame, then all the circuits on the car each have the shortest ground return possible, and will reduce the chance for noise.

either way will work, as long as the engine and frame are both grounded together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
only thing is i think you may want to use a fuse instead of a circut breaker...

a guy on here, jameelrose, lost his RHD turbo DB to an electrical fire and i belive it was because of a bad breaker

EDIT: yup faulty breaker, fuse woulda saved it... Clicky
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,598 Posts
Your power cables should be sized according to the amount of current your electrical system is drawing.

If your car has a major stereo, let's say 1000+ watts RMS, then you should look into getting 2 gauge power/ground cable to handle the 150+ amps you'll be drawing.

However, for most cars that don't draw that much power (for example my system is only 700W RMS) then 4 gauge should suffice. I would not go any smaller than 4 gauge.

Although 2 or 1 gauge is by no means worse (it is overkill), the cost of the wire alone is huge. It sucks to buy, run, and crimp that larger cable as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,598 Posts
thunder2709 on Apr/15/08 said:
only thing is i think you may want to use a fuse instead of a circut breaker...

a guy on here, jameelrose, lost his RHD turbo DB to an electrical fire and i belive it was because of a bad breaker

EDIT: yup faulty breaker, fuse woulda saved it... Clicky
Yep, make sure to fuse your positive cable as close to the battery as possible to reduce risk of catastrophe.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top