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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi...any ideas/suggestions would be great.

I have a 12" sub and the original stock speakers.
I figured I'd use the stock speakers till they blew
because they're getting old.

I used to have the bass going from my HU to my EQ to
my AMP then to my SUB. I had the bass on the HU
very low so as to protect the stock speakers...and I
could control the bass going to the SUB with the EQ.

I found out (from this site
), that I was ruining
the bass going to the sub the way I had it hooked up,
so I got rid of the EQ. Now, I have to have the bass
up (in the middle) on the HU, which really gives the
stock speakers a hard time. I've now blown one of the
front ones.

My question is, how do you have yours hooked up? Does
everyone keep the bass down on the HU to protect their
stock/aftermarket speakers? Or, if you have aftermarket
ones, are they strong enough to take a middle range of
bass from the HU at a loud volume? I'm hoping this makes
sense. I'm trying to keep the bass going to the SUB
without killing the speakers.

Thanks!
 

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You need to buy an amp. That way you can turn the level of the amp up and have a lot of bass or turn it down and have not as much bass. By doing this you dont have to worry about your stock speakers blowing, because all bass will be within the subs.
 

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Or, instead of buying an amp, you could just get much better speakers that will handle the bass.

Here is a cheaper option, Bass Blocker capacitors. You solder them inline on the positive of the input of the speakers. They effectively remove the bass from the signal into the speakers thus saving your stock speakers. They usually have bass blocker capacitors at any good car audio store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you mean an amp for the sub? I have one already

I have the level turned up maybe a little past the
middle. But controlling the bass from the HU makes
a big difference in what I hear from the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
MeltMan on Sep/20/02 said:
They effectively remove the bass from the signal into the speakers thus saving your stock speakers.
This is kind of like what I was doing with the EQ. I had
the bass all the way down on the HU so the stock speakers
got no bass, and then I controlled the sub's bass with
the EQ. The plan worked really welll until I realized
the EQ sucked, and was hurting the bass going to the sub.
 

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Bass Blocker Chart

Where to buy em...

These are reaally overpriced. You can get the raw caps online for about $.50 each if you look hard enough. They are 100V Non-Polarized Electrolytic Capacitors in the values of the above chart, depending on what signal range you want to dampen. You can get away with using 50V caps too, if you arent pushing more than 50W from the head unit.
 

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Cheaper place to buy em...

These are the EXACT same thing for less. You just have to put them inline on the positive speaker wire. It doesnt matter where you put them, you can put them behind the HU or you can put them on the wires at the speaker. These should solve your problem without adding any distortion. You can pick a bigger value than that chart shows to lower the cutoff frequency too, but dont pick too big or you will defeat the purpose. I think I used 80uF 100V caps for my last vehicle...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So what do these make the speakers sound like...just like
the have no bass in them? In other words, which would
be better to do:

1. Get new speakers that can handle the bass, and
therefore will have the bass "sound" in the music.

2. Get these caps for the speakers. I don't know
what they'll sound like though. Will it just sound
as if you turned the bass all the way down on the HU?
 

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They will sound like option 2. They sound just like there is very little bass comming from the HU. The bass level doesnt increase from the stock speakers if you turn it up on the HU. All you get from the stock speakers is midrange and treble, which is what they should be getting anyways.

To me, it is a HUGE improvement over a distorted sound comming from your stock speakers threatening to blow them with too much bass.

Let the subs do the bass work as thats what they are for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I guess my other question would fit here, too.
For those tiny tweeter speakers that you can buy and
put on the door or the dash...how should you hook
those up? Do you use caps for those, too? What wires
do you use as the source...you can just tap into the
wires going to the front speakers right?...won't that
mess with the ohms of the speaker?
 

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I thought i would give you my input. Hope that it helps some.Factory decks and aftermarket decks have built in power. However, the 35x4,25x4 power output indicated on them is not realistic.I can't tell if you have an aftermarket or the factory deck?
If I read your post right, the speakers are the original paper cone ones that are now ten years old, right?

Meltman is right. The treble and midrange is what you should be getting from your speakers. You can add tweeters to the exisitng speakers and use a cap to have the job work the right way. but, how are you going to power the set up? your sub is still going to drown out the treble and midrange if they are not getting powered by an amp.They will run off hte deck, but not to their best performance level.

Let me give you an example....
I've got ADS 325IS,($600.00 dollar separates) high end polypropolene cone (tweeter and driver) for my front speakers. Your last question about tweeters...how do you hook them up...a little bit of info about that. Separates do not generally run well off of deck power. They need a dedicated source for them to work properly. Also, separates come with crossovers that are part of their design. To properly power and "run" separates you need an amp supplying the power. You potentially could run the separates off the deck, but they would be drowned out by the sub. People that run their speakers off deck power tend to find them overwhelmed by an amp powered sub. You can barely make out lyrics.. The amp provides the separates the ability to perform at their best level and not be drowned out by the sub. A simple two channel amp set-up could apply. Separates do not produce the type of lows that you would need to use a cap on. If I didn't power my ADS with an amp, i would have thrown six bones away. Here's an example...

I've got a 12' pioneer sub in a sealed box running off a two channel amp bridged to one. I've also got a 4ch amp powering fronts and rears. My deck is pre-amp (no internal power) anyways, the four channel supplies enough power to the separates that they keep up with the sub. you hear the separates(vocals, treble,midrange) perfectly equal to the bass the sub is putting out. I tend to mt. bike alot. when I go riding i pull the sub box out. What happens is the separates are still being powered by the 4ch, but I have no bass really whatsoever. I can get a little bit of lows out of the drivers, but no where equal to the subs's output. the reason being that I get pounding bass when the sub is in the car...because the amp is powering the bass and that is where all my lows are coming from. the "bass" setting on the deck is set at -2. There is no bass coming from the separates, just good,crisp vocals.

the caps on your speakers will work. no bass will come out,but your subwoofer might, just might overwhelm the front speakers. How many channels is your Amp?

the ideal solve, in my opinion would be this...
get the bass blockers...
get the tweeters....
get a new pair of speakers (the paper cones have probably had it) a better pair than what you have could run you as little as $50.
Get a relaible, inexpensive two ch amp for the fronts and power the sub with the amp you have. If you have a 4ch amp right now, power 2ch two the fronts and bridge the other 2ch down two on for the sub..(depends on wattage of our current amp.
i know it means spending some duckets, but isn't that always the case?
i'm not a big proponent of EQs...i, myself, would take it out.

Just my advice.
 

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i think to solve this problem we need to know if your fronts are running off the amp too.if they're not then ,first turn the gain off on the amp. now turn the music on at a level that you normally would listen to it. adjust your levels(bass, treble, midrange) so that the distortion is barely audible. when you have that done go back to the amp(music at the level you normally listen to it) and adjust you gain from there.
if your speakers are attached then you might have to buy another amp. unless your amp has enough features for you to do the same as above.
 

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So basically what ace is trying to say is that if you want to push your front and rear indoor speakers good to get a sperate amp to push them so u can hear crispy clean vocals, and then you can get a seprate amp to run the subs in the back which will produce the bass am i correct on that if not corrcect me please??
 

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Yes, buy an amp for the speakers to hear the vocals better and your music will sound more crisp. Then buy another amp for your subs for all the bass. Also buy aftermarket speakers, Alpine and Kicker speakers are two of the best speakers I have ever heard. I personally have Alpine Type R speakers and have had no problems and they sound awesome.
 

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i turn down the bass all the way on the hu and only adjust the amp to the sub.. best way to keep the mids from hitting to hard imo..
 

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Ace hit the nail on the head, although for more high end tuning I disagree on a few points, but for a normal daily driven set up i completely agree. As for cheaper two channel amps, check out rockford fosgate, or a used phoenix gold amp.. something along those lines.


and i have to throw this into every audio post, for the love of god please stay away from sony amps.
 
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