Team Integra Forums banner

21 - 26 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Yes might as well get cams and put them in. I run Crower 404 with Rocket Motorsports valve springs. Also running a Victor X intake manifold. My car is an LS-Turbo as well.

Have you made any decisions on injectors, fuel pump, going E85?

For putting the cams while the engine is out is to easily degree the cams for best results. They can adjust it accordingly. I’m running aggressive cams and it idles like a muscle car sometimes. Lol.
Like I said just before, I’m no stranger to a loud idle with my straight piped GT lol but I just want to make sure it is not going to damage the motor. If I lose some power, then so be it. I just want the motor to be able to handle it and for it to not die haha did you run those cams before you boosted it? If so, how did they feel? And in terms of fuel delivery, I was thinking about keeping the injectors stock or just above stock for now. I’ve read that the base ecu can’t control larger injectors and I’m not ready to tune it yet. Any thoughts on that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,316 Posts
If your boosting and want to get the most power. Your going to need injectors. I’m running 1000cc FIC injectors. It gives me room. Even when I was supercharged the RC 750 wasn’t enough.

If you have a tuner he should know that’s important. You do not want to be on the dyno and having problems boosting because he can’t tune the fuel delivery. And if your boosting please decide on a ECU management. I’m still running Chrome chipped ECU.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
If your boosting and want to get the most power. Your going to need injectors. I’m running 1000cc FIC injectors. It gives me room. Even when I was supercharged the RC 750 wasn’t enough.

If you have a tuner he should know that’s important. You do not want to be on the dyno and having problems boosting because he can’t tune the fuel delivery. And if your boosting please decide on a ECU management. I’m still running Chrome chipped ECU.
No need to keep paying them to add power when you get little parts here and there. I believe do it all right at once and save the headache.
I was looking at getting a hondata for the tune. Although I do know a guys who has an obd1 chrome chipped ecu he’s trying to sell me. Says it has a base map. I just wanna get the mechanical aspects built so I can break in the motor before boost. That’s why I’m asking about the cams on an NA setup lol Someone brought to my attention, though, that you may not need to tune too much if have a manual tranny compared to an automatic? He’s a little old fashion and admitted it might not be correct. I plan on tuning it anyways but I’d love to know if you have any insight on that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I know there are threads talking about turbo builds but I need to know specifically about one aspect of the build. I’m already looking to pretty much have my whole B18b1 motor rebuilt with forged rods and pistons. I see all these options for pistons with a larger bore than the stock 81mm but I really don’t think having my block stripped and sent out to be bored is really within my budget or time right now. I know there are forged pistons that come in stock size with a slight change in compression. My question is are there any serious drawbacks in terms of wear and damage to the rest of the motor if I put together a mild turbo build (no crazy power, maybe 200-250hp to start) with the stock bore? Or is it just as reliable? Assuming I have the proper gaskets, bearings, and head studs of course. Any feedback is appreciated
I'm quite literally in the process you want to be in (whole bottom end on the way and block is at machine shop) and I will tell you right now, SAVE THE HEADACHE AND SAVE YOUR MONEY AND TAKE YOUR SH*T TO THE MACHINE SHOP. Order an 81.5mm bottom end with GSR pistons to hit 10.5 compression which is what you SHOULD be running on a modern setup now that Hondata makes it literally impossible to detonate with a good tune and proper fueling, get a .027 Cometic 81.5mm Head gasket assuming you don't have to shave block or head, get your fueling correct with at the very least a Walbro 255 and 800cc injectors from Hunter Tuned, get an adjustable FPR from AEM, and of course get Hondata S300, at least V2. BORE YOUR BLOCK OUT TO 81.5MM. IT HAS TO BE DONE. There are many benefits to going 81.5 including bigger parts selection, slight increase in displacement and a fresh surface to seat the piston rings for almost perfect P2W clearance. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON MACHINE WORK. Take all your parts to a reputable machine shop, have them Mic the entire bottom end, check crank and get it cleaned up if need be, and properly hone match your pistons to their respected cylinder and balance the entire rotating assembly. If you don't have the money for it, DON'T DO IT. The motor WILL be coming back out if you don't do the above. Take it from someone who's already been through it and is now getting their setup proper and going with big cams (Crower 405s). As for the head, if you're not building a strip dedicated/focused car, stick to Crower 404s and their valvetrain package as well. These heads flow like sh*t and need all the help they can get, and 404s are still a very mild cam compared to some of the aggressive B series VTEC cams.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Also, I'm assuming this is your first turbo build and step into modifying your own car to this extent, and there is absolutely 0 wrong with that, but there are a LOT of things you have to know going into this. There are very many nitty gritty details surrounding each and every part you put into your car, and if you want to avoid fixing things as much as possible you need to get good parts from the very beginning. I'd suggest finding good used parts for a lot of your turbo components. Facebook Marketplace is hands down the best place to find Honda parts second hand depending on where you are. I'd suggest getting your injectors, intercooler, turbo manifold (reputable branded manifold, only GOOD cheap manifold is a standard cast iron log manifold), and wastegate there if you find good deals. I know you say you only want 300hp max, but if you're already going built motor you're gonna want more and soon. For fuel again the absolute least you should be looking at is a 250lph pump and 800cc injectors. As for the turbo I'd highly recommend the smallest you go is a GT3076. Get an eBay ball bearing one if you want to, they seem to hold up pretty well, just do your research and get a "good" eBay one. You can also find tons of them new in box on FB or OfferUp from people who got halfway through their build and couldn't finish. You want a turbo that can push 300hp with ease but still spools quickly and can support up to 400ish if you want to go that far later on. As for the exact components you can use for your bottom end, Nippon Racing pistons will be absolutely fine if you're on a budget, just don't settle for the stands "B series turbo" pistons they offer, as the compression is near stock and won't improve the spool characteristics of your setup. I'd recommend Scat LS rods and get Nippon Racings GSR pistons, if you get them from seller Uyunira on eBay he can even get Scat to machine down the small end of the rods BEFORE you get them so that they'll be a straight bolt on application to the GSR pistons. With the proper HG this can put you around 10.2 static compression which is perfect for boost with Hondata as you engine management and a competent tuner. If you mill the head and block you can get even closer to the magic number of 10.5:1.
 
21 - 26 of 26 Posts
Top