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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
Not exactly a Integra post, but I am currently swapping a b18b1 into 96 Honda EK. Everything is in and we are attempting to get it timed. The ECM is a P75 with a jumper harness. We've checked the mechanical timing on the cam marks, along with the sight hole in the cams, and the timing on the crankshaft. Everything is perfectly lined up. When we hit it with a timing light, all the way advanced on the distributor we can barely hit 0 degrees much less 16 degrees. I am at a loss on what else to try.

Any advice?

Thanks in advance
 

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you have to jump the ecu service connector. not sure where its at on a EK but its under the passenger dash on a teggy. it should be a little blue 2 pin connector possibly inside of a green protective sleeve. make sure the car is fully warmed up and running. take a paper clip and put each end into the service connector. the check engine light should flash constantly so you know its working. then you can set the timing. otherwise the computer will interfere with you setting the dizzy timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you have to jump the ecu service connector. not sure where its at on a EK but its under the passenger dash on a teggy. it should be a little blue 2 pin connector possibly inside of a green protective sleeve. make sure the car is fully warmed up and running. take a paper clip and put each end into the service connector. the check engine light should flash constantly so you know its working. then you can set the timing. otherwise the computer will interfere with you setting the dizzy timing.
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Yeah I did the jumper for the ecm, but on mine when I did have CEL it flashed the corresponding times for whatever the code was. Now that I have cleared all of those the CEL is constant on with no flashing. The article I read was that it was meant to be solid on meaning no CEL.
 

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Your correct on it being solid CEL when jumping the service connector. it sounds like you are doing the procedure right so i would suggest double checking the mechanical aspect of timing. i would shoot a guess at something being wrong mechanically. something like the crankshaft pulley keyway being missing or aftermarket crank pulley that has the wrong marking on it. im just spitballing here because i cant lay my eyes on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Make sure you're using the timing marks and not the TDC mark on the crank pulley.
If I understood it correct when timing, I dont time off of the TDC mark on the pulley? The single mark by itself but the center of the other 3 marks? If that is the case, I have been timing it incorrectly because I was going off of the single mark.
 

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If I understood it correct when timing, I dont time off of the TDC mark on the pulley? The single mark by itself but the center of the other 3 marks? If that is the case, I have been timing it incorrectly because I was going off of the single mark.
Yeah it's the 3 marks. That's why your timing was off. I think the 3 marks mean 16,17 and 18 for timing. Then TDC mark is by itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah it's the 3 marks. That's why your timing was off. I think the 3 marks mean 16,17 and 18 for timing. Then TDC mark is by itself.
Alright that must be the problem. I was using my advance dial on the timing light and setting it to 16 degrees and couldnt get the single mark anywhere close to 16 degrees. Keep the light at 0 and aim for the middle mark correct?
 

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He had it right before. The timing light advance should be set to 0. The mark on the cover of a B18B engine is already at 16 degrees, and it's meant to align to the middle of the 3 dots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
He had it right before. The timing light advance should be set to 0. The mark on the cover of a B18B engine is already at 16 degrees, and it's meant to align to the middle of the 3 dots.

I verified TDC on piston 1, along with the timing marks on the cam, both the sight holes and the lines on cam. Very little slack between the cams on timing belt and tight on front side belt. Keyway looks good still in its spot, no sign of damage or misalignment. Also, tried a new distributor as well, and a spare set of spark plug wires. I was able to get it to 12 degrees consistently. All the way advanced it is still only able to go to 12 degrees. Cold start it idled at around 1200 rpm, when warm it was fluctuating between 730 to 820. Still no CEL. Hooked up to an ECM with hondata and made no difference. Didn't have my laptop to hook up to the hondata ecm to see if anything was way out of wack. When manually revving the motor, it goes to about 2700 rpm and falls on its face. All spark plugs were black with signs of running extremely rich. I don't have a spare afr gauge or I would hook up to it. I don't know what else to try. So far we've fixed multiple CEL, including IAT, MAT, Fast Idle Valve, heated oxygen sensor and IACV. Everything has been replaced or repaired. I had an OBD2 to OBD1 jumper harness for the distributor that we had found there was a loose wire, that we replaced with a good jumper, but now with the new distributor it's obd2 to obd2 no jumper. Plus tried a different known working ECM jumper harness and that made no difference.
 

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Alright that must be the problem. I was using my advance dial on the timing light and setting it to 16 degrees and couldnt get the single mark anywhere close to 16 degrees. Keep the light at 0 and aim for the middle mark correct?
I was referring back to this statement. You had it correct when you said to keep the light at 0 and aim to align the middle of the 3 dots to the reference mark on the block. However, setting the gun to 16 and using the TDC mark on the pulley instead should also work.

Someone asked you earlier whether you had inserted the jumper that fixes the timing commanded from the ECU. I didn't see an explicit confirmation from you that was done, only a mention of a jumper conversion harness, which is not what was indicated. If you don't install the jumper that fixes the timing from the ECU, you cannot set your timing. Period. You can verify the jumper is working by running the engine with your timing light hooked up and revving the engine. The timing should remain fixed regardless of RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I was referring back to this statement. You had it correct when you said to keep the light at 0 and aim to align the middle of the 3 dots to the reference mark on the block. However, setting the gun to 16 and using the TDC mark on the pulley instead should also work.

Someone asked you earlier whether you had inserted the jumper that fixes the timing commanded from the ECU. I didn't see an explicit confirmation from you that was done, only a mention of a jumper conversion harness, which is not what was indicated. If you don't install the jumper that fixes the timing from the ECU, you cannot set your timing. Period. You can verify the jumper is working by running the engine with your timing light hooked up and revving the engine. The timing should remain fixed regardless of RPM.
Ah alright. I have had the jumper in the diagnostic port in the passenger foot well the whole time. Even with that, it still doesn't seem to change the ability to time it. When the jumper is in it is a solid CEL, and without it there is no CEL showing. It was the same on the 2nd ECU as well
 

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Assuming you know how to use a timing light and based on the information that you said that you get the same results on at least 2 ECUs, you probably do not have the cams properly aligned to the crank. You're probably off a tooth, which would result in a nominal shift of just over 10 degrees, more than that for which the adjustability in the distributor can compensate. If your B18 is anything like mine, the marks on the cams don't line up quite perfectly horizontal, and there's a bit of a judgment call as to which way to go relative to the crank's position. Try jumping the belt one tooth back on the cams and see if your problem doesn't go away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Assuming you know how to use a timing light and based on the information that you said that you get the same results on at least 2 ECUs, you probably do not have the cams properly aligned to the crank. You're probably off a tooth, which would result in a nominal shift of just over 10 degrees, more than that for which the adjustability in the distributor can compensate. If your B18 is anything like mine, the marks on the cams don't line up quite perfectly horizontal, and there's a bit of a judgment call as to which way to go relative to the crank's position. Try jumping the belt one tooth back on the cams and see if your problem doesn't go away.
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When I did first set the cams, it did seem like the exhaust cam was possibly off by one tooth. But not as aligned on the lines, and sight holes as I can get. I might pull the balancer off and reset the whole belt just to be certain again.
 
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