[terryterrible]

Hello, So recently just finished my swap first problem I ran Into was when I tried to start the car not only would It not start but It would also not allow me to take the key out. Rewired the at connector and now the car just won't start? Can anyone lead me into the right direction I'm using the auto ecu and wiring harness for now so I don't believe I have a clutch safety switch and the only other thing I can think of is the starter maybe?

 

[rguttenb]

By not start, do you mean no fire, or the engine won't turn at all?

When you say you rewired the AT connector, do you mean you jumped the wires at the AT shifter plug so the ECU thinks the car is in neutral/park? That's the only way the ECU will let the engine crank.

 

[terryterrible]

By not start, do you mean no fire, or the engine won't turn at all?

When you say you rewired the AT connector, do you mean you jumped the wires at the AT shifter plug so the ECU thinks the car is in neutral/park? That's the only way the ECU will let the engine crank.

Im Getting a No crank at all but I can hear the fuel pump priming I'm 99% sure I wired up the AT plug connector correctly But after inspecting the engine bay I might be missing a ground. Specifically the one that connects from chasis to transmission? By any chance would you know if that would cause a no crank

 

[rguttenb]

Given that there should be another ground attaching the cam cover to the chassis, I wouldn't expect missing the one at the transmission to result in no crank at all. That said, it doesn't take a very weak ground to cause a no crank, so it can't hurt to test. Just run a jumper cable from the chassis to a spot on the transmission. While you're at it, I'd also use a jumper lead to feed 12 volts directly from the battery to the ignitional terminal on the starter solenoid ... just to make sure it cranks when it has a known good 12-volt signal.

 

[rguttenb]

P.S. - If you try that last thing, just be very careful not to short the lead to any grounded metal, i.e. don't let it touch anything other than the terminal on the starter solenoid.

 

[terryterrible]

P.S. - If you try that last thing, just be very careful not to short the lead to any grounded metal, i.e. don't let it touch anything other than the terminal on the starter solenoid.

Yea I've worked with jumper cables before at school so that might be the next thing I try, As an update though installing the ground cable did get the car to start (at least I think it was a factor) But after turning it off it would not turn back on sadly. I should also mention that I don't believe I even have a ground from valve cover to chasis (not sure if a b20 swap would have anything to do with this)

At this point I'm just picking at straws I don't have a voltmeter on me to check for voltage so I'm assuming it might just be the battery hopefully? with it originally turning on and all that I'm not even sure if its a wiring thing anymore.

sucks that with doing this swap its hard to contact a mechanic whos knowledgeable on this sort of modification.

 

[rguttenb]

If you had no ground strap at all between the engine/transmission and chassis, you almost certainly would not be able to start the car. The Integra comes with 2 ground straps. I would think that one would generally be enough to at least get the starter to function. Your initial success would suggest that to be the case. The subsequent failure could suggest otherwise. When you say you reconnected it the ground, did you attach it to the original anchor points or use a new location? Did you use a star washer or something similar or was the paint already removed from the area to create a good contact?

Reattaching grounds is definitely one of the easier things to do. After that, I would get a voltmeter, connect the negative lead to the negative terminal of the battery and the positive lead to the positive terminal of the starter and set it up where you can see the display from the driver's seat. Make sure that when you turn the key, the starter is seeing 12 volts ... or something. Seeing no blips of voltage means you probably have a problem with your ignition interlocks or a fuse if you're lucky. Seeing only a few volts or maybe a brief spike and then something barely over 0 volts would suggest a bad ground.