[Downshift]

Crower Camshafts (297-int. 287 exh.)
Crower springs & retainers
Crower steel billet connecting rods
Crower custom made crank (78.8mm stroke)
JE Pistons (11.5:1 compression, 85mm bore)
Hytech 4-2-1 header
2.5" Catalytic Converter
2.5" 16" resonator
2.5" dual-pass muffler
2.5" exhaust piping
AEM adjustable cam gears
AEM FPR
AEM tru-power pulley set
AEM fuel rail
Apex'i VAFC (for now, until Hondata)

My goal is to have a N/A GSR with approx. 250whp that can be driven daily on pump gas.

Let me know what you think

 

[pnoygsr]

man u got cash!!!!!!!

 

[Downshift]

not really, I've just worked out my budget, figured the maximum that I can spend, figured the time I had to spend it in and all that. By nature, I'm a planner, I never start a project until I have every detail and every sequence planned, locked in and have a contingency plan just in case. I figure that by the time I'm done (about 2 years from now) I'll have spent about $15,000 in parts. ($600 per month in a dedicated savings account)

 

[Gsrstylz]

wait, that setup will get you 250whp? what else would you need? to get there?

 

[JustinKlemgold]

You aren't going to get 250 WHP out of this setup....sorry...

 

[integra04life]

spend alot less and just go for a mean turbo set up you seem to have the cash

 

[ryougazilla]

yah, that wont push 250 whp. Maybe at the flywheel but not at the wheels. I doubt that at the flywheel too.

 

[MikeSarrGSR]

Crower Camshafts (297-int. 287 exh.)
Crower springs & retainers
Crower steel billet connecting rods
Crower custom made crank (78.8mm stroke)
JE Pistons (11.5:1 compression, 85mm bore)
Hytech 4-2-1 header
2.5" Catalytic Converter
2.5" 16" resonator
2.5" dual-pass muffler
2.5" exhaust piping
AEM adjustable cam gears
AEM FPR
AEM tru-power pulley set
AEM fuel rail
Apex'i VAFC (for now, until Hondata)

My goal is to have a N/A GSR with approx. 250whp that can be driven daily on pump gas.

Let me know what you think

________________________________________________________

you asked for it.
________________________________________________________

ok, first... you have nothing in here that has to do with the age of your motor, what this car is to be used for and how you plan on sustaining this power goal. you will spend more money in the long term because of it.

how do you plan on dealing with the heat of a higher compression motor? this hasnt been noted. what about gagues? oil pressure, oil temp and knock/retard modules?
that also hasnt been reflected in your plan. do you honestly plan on pulling this specific output from a motor like this on stock injectors? you may, but not for long before you run longeterm lean. high compression pistons are coarsly designed and inherently raise the chance for detonation. 85mm bore? what about your block... any plans there? sorry man I dont see you accomplishing this unless you give this more thought.
Building engines and engineering is more precise than you think. I suggest this:

11.5:1 target CR / 220whp SAE corrected

P/P GSR head for 255/249 cam profile $750 + $500
.0020" mill/resurface
ITR valves and valvesprings $250
ITR LMAs $250
Black Nitrided Titanium retainers $200
Skunk2 stage 1 cams $750
Jun Auto Mech Cam gears $300
Hytech Full Exhaust $2200 (why not)

270cc-310cc injectors $300
OBD2 to OBD1 conversion harness $250
OBD1 P72 ECU $200
Hondata Stage 2 $250
J/S safeguard knock/retard unit $300-500
Oil pressure/Oil temp gagues/Air Fuel $200
NEW OEM ITR shortblock with stock internals $2800
Machining of P72 VVIS GSR manifold $100

Labor... oh God, I hope you can do your own work or have competant friends. $0-$2000

Fluidyne radiator, mugen thermostat, fan switch, OEM or FAL radiator fans $500

new belts, TB tensioner pulley, new valvestem seals, NGK wires, stock NGK platinum plugs for ITR 6 heat range like GSR will be fine, new cap, rotor, upper gasket kit, ARP head studs, yada yada... $300

Amsoil 10-30w full synthetic after 1500 miles for the
life of the motor.

This setup will yeild 200-220 whp SAE corrected tuned correctly I would imagine. I am working on this currently. Keep in mind this power... is great. OH WILL IT EVER BE GREAT!! It takes time and money and learning to get there.

The clutch, gears, wheels and tires, motor mounts, any weight reduction, conditions and driving skills could see 13s reliably on street tires, daily driven. Keep in mind such a beast will require tires, brakes and service on a regular basis.

All I want to do is help bro. Hate to bust on any bubbles, but be sure and give total thought to your complete setup through maintainence shedule and you will be fine. You need to invest more independant thought to your needs/goals/budget/vs reality check before you commit to a setup you cannot maintain.

 

[vondutch]

wow, and i thought my shift knob was expensive.

 

[MikeSarrGSR]

yea man this game isnt cheap

 

[viprtwo]

dont' forget if you decide to rebuild.. your not taking into account anything that has to do with rebuilding. bearings, main seals, gaskets, oil pump, all that.

BTW, i think your dreaming to have all that stuff. alot of it isn't even that important. AEM fuel rail!? c'mon you don't need that. nor do you need the pulleys. if your really going to spend that $$ on a crazy motor. your not going to run ANY ac or power steering. and if you throw it into a car with full stereo and interior.. your just wasting it. you'll never do that motor justice.

don't do that stupid crower crank.. run a b17a crank or stick with the gs-r crank. and stay away from the crower stuff. use the eagle rods. they're lighter i think. AEM cam gears arent' that good. they used to slip so i don't ever trust any of that. if your putting together a $15k setup. buy some GOOD gears. and don't skimp on anything. dont' get the vafc. just buy the j&s knock sensor and the hondata upfront.

get some new axles and make sure you get your suspension and chassis set up. there seriously is not such thing as 250whp from a 85mm bore and 78mm crank. you gotta rev it up to an insane number to get that. and you'll need ITB's to carry the powerband that far. and i'd run 84mm first. chances are soemthing will happen to your pistons in the first few years you drive it. if you blow your motor. then you still have some meat to bore out to 85mm the next time around.

by then.. just go put the down payment on a new car. its never as easy as it seems. don't forget the little details. don't forget your motor mounts, and over 50 hours on the dyno at maybe $100 an hour?

 

[NAR Dc2 R 727]

your getting mroe air so you'll need more fuel and more spark.. or your motor will go kaboom.. when you start it up.. look torward www.Importbuilders.com check out their setups they have setup that do 250 to the wheels.. dyno proven.

 

[Fentoozler45]

Maybe I should point something out.....

2-1/4" up to 210HP @ the flywheel (about 180-185 whp)

2-3/8" (60mm) up to 235HP @ the flywheel (about 200-207 whp)

2-1/2" up to 265HP @ the flywheel (about 225-235 whp)

2-3/4" up to 325HP @ the flywheel (about 275-285 whp)

3" big for big HP (Forced Induction: > 275 whp)

According to this.... 2.5" might be a bit restrictive for 250whp. Maybe you should consider stepping your exhaust to a 2.75"..... Just a thought.

 

[Downshift]

Well, I did ask what you thought.
Yes it's a lot of money, but when you look at $600 per month over a two year period it's not that dificult to get it. I never said that I was getting everything all at once, or that I didn't know what I''m getting into. So many people start modding their cars with no idea of what they want or where their going with it. I have a specific plan and an overall price tag. I know what I want and I know how to get there.

Several things that were posted were very helpful, I did not know that the AEM pulleys were bad, I will modify my choice on that. Several things that were posted I knew (such as the engine strip down and ful rebuild) I figured I didn't need to include it.

I didn't figure on the negativity, I know I'm new here, but DAMN, People saying "don't" or "that's stupid" or whatever, I don't need that crap. I need information on the parts and pieces that I listed or suggestions for improvement.

 

[T94ls]

If you are set on that plan then do it. I think the others were just trying to tell you that you're goal of 250 was a little high. If you want to stick to you planned list of parts that's cool. Just don't expect as much gain as you thought. I think that it's good that you are thinking about what you want to do and that you are planning it all out. Lets see how high you can get.

 

[dxplicitone]

I didn't figure on the negativity, I know I'm new here, but DAMN, People saying "don't" or "that's stupid" or whatever, I don't need that crap. I need information on the parts and pieces that I listed or suggestions for improvement.

I AGREE WITH YOU HERE.. buuuut you have to understand that there are alot of kids coming around and trying to give a bunch of info they are taking from a magazine and trying to act like they know what the hell they are talking about... there is alot of knowledge on the board as well as a bunch of crap... some of the guys are a bit direct with negativity including myself... but at least they are helpful... take out of it what you need and leave the rest for us board people to read and enojy... welcome to the board im also new an well...

i would have to disagree with spending so much friggin money on an all motor car... all motor = expensive as hell. persoanlly i think forced induction is the only way to build real power because im just not a rick mofo..and when you talk like 600 bucks a month.. MAN THATS RENT MoNEY! but then again i use to dump cash like that as well...

 

[MeltMan]

I agree, for the money, FI is really the only way to get 250whp. If I had the 600 a month I would be hopping out of my auto teg into a gsr and putting a turbo on it.

 

[Downshift]

I am kind of looking at the rev hard Stage 2 turbo kit (if I were to go FI) but what is the reliability of a turbo GSR? any problems? I was looking to maintain or increase low end torque, but I would lose that with turbo, correct?

 

[MeltMan]

No, you will gain torque just as soon as that turbo spools.

 

[Downshift]

Geez, now I'm thinking that FI might be the way to go. (I actually have local tuning help for turbo if I go that way) I just don't know what's best now. I know turbo pretty well (spent 2 years getting parts for a turbo neon) I was just looking for something different.
Here are my goals, tell me if these are unreasonable:
250 hp / 175 torque at the wheels
full interior, A/C, power steering still in car
daily drivable but trackworthy as well