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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guyz, finally picked up my components and now I just have a few more questions before i install everything this weekend. First off, I was looking at the stock wires to the front speakers and there are 4 going into the little plastic jack that goes into the speaker...why are there 4 and which ones do I need? Also, how bad will components sound without an amp, im running them off my rfx9300. Next question, say I was to use 2 amps. one is a JBL 1200.1 for my subs and the other is most likely a kicker 200.2. I know how to wire up the amps and such but have only one problem....how do i wire the power to them? I bought an 4 guage amp kit to power the JBL but what do I do for the kicker? I would think I need a distribution block to split the power right? What exactly will I need starting from the battery all the way to the amp? So far my list is distribution block...wire.. and ????. Will I have to run 2 guage wire to the distribution block and then split it into 8 guage and 4 guage from there? Also, does the distro block go in the back or near the hood or what?If I can place it near the front then my 4 guage wire wouldnt goto waste. Also if I use a distribution block do I still need fuse blocks that seem to come with all the amp kits? Also, could I use 4 guage wire to power the kicker amp? If some questions in here dont make sense it is because im still learning about this...Always had my systems installed for me but thought it was about time to do it myself. Bah, hate being a novice at installing systems...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
also, could i use a fuse block that splits power instead of a distribution block. A few questions turned into alot.
 

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Wow...lots of questions, hopefully I get to them all.

If you're debating on how to power your components, use a separate amp if possible. Now onto installing those amps...
I suggest
following this and installing a fuse block in the trunk just before the amps. As for wire size, 4 gauge split into 8 gauge should sneek you by. If you want to upgrade, run 2 gauge and split into 4.

Hopefully that gets you started.

And one more thing, you can use another fuse or distribution block for the ground wires from each amp so they use a single ground location.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lol, cheez always to my rescue...I sat there for a good hour and puzzled out a good amount of my own questions...Amazing what one can do when one applys his/her mind =). I can run 4 guage wire to both amps right? How much 2 guage wire do you think I will need to run from the front to the back if I follow z's plan. That thing has become my bible =). I going to have to use 2 seperate amps so thats why Im trying to figure it out so that I dont have to go back and rip up everything. Can I run my components without an amp for the time being and will they still sound alot better then the stock speakers? Thanks again =).
 

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Your front speakers have four wires because two run to the tweeters. I don't know the color codes off my head they should be in the articles section, but all you have to do is trace the wires that go from the tweeter to the speakers and you know which is which.

All those combos of fuse and distribution blocks are confusing me.....hehe.....and to be honest, off a two amp system, it is not CRITICAL, however it does simplify. These blocks don't come cheap so for a two amp system, I would just suggest a fused distribution block near the battery. I would suggest a 2 gauge into two four gauge fuse block if they make it like that, cause you will need 4 gauge for your sub amplifier.

You could use a ground distribution block, but IMO, I think it's not budget wise, cause you could just use two black wires and ground to a common point. But if you are not on a tight budget, it does make an easy and clean install.
 

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Sure they sound better than stock speakers on stock radio. You got aftermarket speakers and after market head unit so they will be much louder and clearer.

Now that I think about it, you can try this:

Run a huge fuse or circuit breaker ( say about 150 A ) near the battery and run a single 2 gauge wire to the location to where you will be installing your amps. From there you can distribute the 2 gauge into two 4 gauges via a fused distribution block. To run wire from your battery to a trunk, I would give it about 15-20 feet of wire. Your amps should be capable of taking 4 gauge wire IF your ring terminal that you place at the tip of the wire can fit both the 4 gauge wire and the power terminal on your amplifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I thought the 4 wires went to a tweeter but they dont...Why would a tweeter be feeding into a 6 inch speaker? The tweeter wires are seperate and a totally different color when i traced them from the actual tweeter... I still havent figured out this one =). Yah, looks like ill be using a 0 AWG to 2-4AWG fuse distro block up at the battery, that way i dont have to fork out more cash on the 0 guage wire.
 

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timpac167 on Sep/11/02 said:
These blocks don't come cheap so for a two amp system, I would just suggest a fused distribution block near the battery.
First off, if you're going to do a cheap install, don't complain to me when something goes wrong.

onto the quote...why would you put that near the battery???? Put the fuse block in the trunk as close as possible to the amps. This will allow you to maximize the larger wire between the battery and the block. Keep in mind that you still want an inline fuse near the battery as well...I assumed you saw that in the article.
 

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Two of the wires at the speaker go up to the tweeter. The tweeter is connected in parallel at the speaker connection; it is fed its signal from there. When I installed component speakers, I reused the stock tweeter wiring/connector and ran it to the crossover that I also mounted to the door. I did it this way so the door panels are just as easy to remove as stock. A perfectionist will not reuse the factory wire. Do consider how you are going to disconnect the tweeter when door panel removal is necessary. Check here if you don't want to pay outrageous prices for install accessories.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Im trying to do the cleanest install i possibly can. When you have a like $1000 worth of components going to be installed, you dont want to use crappy stuff. Would an 80 amp inline fuse work up at the battery? Anyone know the going price for 2 guage or 0 guage wire by the foot?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Stock wire has to go because im running it to my amp in the back anyway. So I guess the wiring on the speaker doesnt matter but im still wondering. So if i was to use the stock wire, where in the wire heirarchy would i link my massive crossover ( eg. before the speaker, after the speaker on the way to the tweeter?).
 

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Cheeze this you are right. A fused distribution block is nonsense now that I thought about it.

And what I was suggesting is that instead of this whole distribution block, he could also do two independent amplifier wirings. That is how I have it so if it is possible, it can save you the 30-40 dollars from a distribution block. By no means did I try to imply a cheap install, heavens no, electronics on an automobile are not meant to go with a shoddy install.

And ryou, is your door speaker system stock? I am positive that when I did my front speakers, the tweeters are hooked in parallel to the speaker like kelly has stated.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
kelly is right about the tweeters, just the colors are washed out on my tweeter wires. What do you mean by two independent amplifier wirings? Why wouldnt i use a fused distro block? Im gonna be running alot of power through these. I already have an 80 amp in line fuse that I can use but was thinking of using the distro block too.
 

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I have my amp mounted in the rear and connected its speaker wiring to the stock front speaker harness by the back of the radio. Running new wire to the doors is more difficult. There is an article on this. Every install is different, take your time and really think everything out, especially consider how easy the system will be to remove if you need to do this in order to access something else, draw diagrams. DO NOT RUSH THIS. Actually, you should have had the system all planned out before you bought anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cheez, thats what i intend on doing, was just asking why kelly was saying no distor block. Thought he was reading something different in your post than I was. As for planning, that is exactly what I am doing. I have already pulled apart and tested all the parts of the car that I will have to adjust to install the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Whats the difference between what you and kelly did and what morning did? Im afraid of doing what morning did and if there is a safer way then I will take it.
 

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If I'm correct, MorningZ wired his fronts the same way until just recently when he upgraded his system. (If I'm wrong, I'm sure he'll correct me.) In fact, when I wired mine up, I used his help to wire mine that way. Running new wire to the doors is difficult and is only needed when pushing, say, over 120 watts rms.
 
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