Alpha's DD Project Log UPDATE: Thread back from the dead

27628 Views 105 Replies 25 Participants Last post by TheAlpha, 4 d ago

TheAlpha

Discussion Starter · Sep 10, 2011 (Edited)

11

((((UPDATES))))
Anti-Theft Circuit Post #23
New audio setup and installation Post#37
New Goodies post#41
LS is OUT! New pics! post#51
Swap complete!! Now a member of the vtec club!
New wheels, exhaust, & plate setup
Fresh wax & new shift knob
Suspension build underway
Wheel wells painted and 95% of car re-assembled!
Suspension review + mini-photoshoot at Ash Lawn!

Welcome to my build thread.

Current setup (Updated Sep. 24, 2012)
Suspension:
Fortune Auto 500 Series Coilovers 7/5k (392/280lbs)
Benen Tripod
ASR Brace
Function7 LCAs
PWJDM Rear Swaybar endlinks
Type R rear and front sway bars
Skunk2 Rear camber kit
Skunk2 Pro series front camber kit with Hardrace bushings
New Bushings
Brakes:
Mini/Type R big brake upgrade
SS Brake Lines
Centric rotors
Audio:
Dual Din Boss radio with Carplay
4x 6.5" Sound Ordnance Speakers
4ch Alpine 300W amp
1ch 150W-ish cheap amp
JL Audio 10" Sub
Dynamat Superlight 24sqft
Other:
Blox "Limited Series" Neo Chrome 490 shift knob
Optima battery
Custom anti-theft system
2 way communicating alarm system
I also have a shotgun waiting for one - or two - unfortunate enough to attempt to steal my baby 😉
Engine:
JDM 98+ Type R engine
Apexi WS2 catback
JDM Type R cat
Weapon R Intake
P75 ECU with vtec
Moates Demon
Tuned on Neptune
PLX DM-6 Wideband

Future plans?:
Get it back on the road

Here is my old setup:
98" Integra LS
Original B18B1
No A/C
Greddy 18G Turbo w/ Greddy Intercooler
550CC RC Injectors
Innovate Wideband O2
Glowshift boost gauge/oil pres. sensor & exhaust temp sensor
Chipped non-VTEC ECU running Moates Demon
Tuned on eCtune @ 249hp/249wtq
3" Full exhaust (Thermal R&D) w/ custom 3" Downpipe
Stage 4 Clutch
Suspension:
Koni Yellows with Ground Control Coilovers (450F/350R)
Ground Control Top Hats
Skunk2 Pro Series Plus Front Camber Kit
Blox Rear Camber Kit
Audio:
Some aftermarket 6.5" speakers - decent quality, not great though
Everything else has been stollen

(Two radio's, two MTX12" subs)

Older Photos:

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1 - 20 of 106 Posts

TheAlpha

Discussion Starter · #2 · Sep 19, 2011

Just tested parasitic draw yesterday, it came in at 60 milliamps, which is a little on the high side. I might retest today however, since I was a little rushed yesterday I didn't have to time to wait 15mins after connecting power to the car. So at that time the ECU might not have been in "sleep mode" which could throw off my results.

MrMoe

· #3 · Sep 19, 2011

After reading Meltman's thread I am honestly starting to believe that there is no such thing as a AC compatible turbo kit. Or a at least one where you do not have to worry about problems over heating.

Dustin96LS

· #4 · Sep 19, 2011 (Edited)

MrMoe said:
After reading Meltman's thread I am honestly starting to believe that there is no such thing as a AC compatible turbo kit. Or a at least one where you do not have to worry about problems over heating.

I have noticed this too, and its quite annoying/misleading. If you have a good quality dual core rad (half or full size, take your pick), a SPAL fan with a properly designed/fitting shroud, heat wrap every exhaust piece thats possible, run a coolant additive such as Water Wetter, anddd possibly an oil cooler set up, you will NOT have heat issues. Also be sure the cooling system is properly bled. I have seen way too many set ups with this type of preparation and they have 0 cooling problems, even at 280-300 WHP. Its expensive to make 300 WHP turbo Honda with A/C, but definitely not impossible.

EDIT: Also some will argue that 250 plus WHP on a daily driven (street tires) teg is unpractical anyway, and I support that. And at 250-260 WHP, overheating will definitely not be an issue with even half of the above preparations.

TheAlpha

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 19, 2011

MrMoe said:
After reading Meltman's thread I am honestly starting to believe that there is no such thing as a AC compatible turbo kit. Or a at least one where you do not have to worry about problems over heating.

Yea, I'm honestly starting to lean in the direction of a JDM Type-R swap, although I'd miss the insane sudden pull when the turbo spools, a high-revving engine with vtec might be a nice substitute and a little more DD friendly. Although I'm not sure what I'd do when it comes to the exhaust setup. Being stealthy is priority, and without a turbo sound management will be all about the exhaust setup.

Opinions?

Dustin96LS

· #6 · Sep 19, 2011

I'd say keep your current set up. Get a downpipe that will fit with A/C, re-install A/C, take the necessary cooling precautions (in my above post), and enjoy a 250 WHP LS with A/C

TheAlpha

Discussion Starter · #7 · Sep 19, 2011

Dustin96LS said:
I'd say keep your current set up. Get a downpipe that will fit with A/C, re-install A/C, take the necessary cooling precautions (in my above post), and enjoy a 250 WHP LS with A/C

Yea, I've thought plenty about going this route as well, but if I did I'd still want to replace many things. The turbo, manifold, and intercooler + piping are all showing their age, so I would want to replace the whole turbo setup essentially. Any way you cut it a setup that is A/C compatible would be quite costly, I've looked at a few kits of Synapse, which will run upwards of $4000.

Another option I suppose is to get a similar setup with a screamer pipe and another custom downpipe with a tight bend to allow for A/C. I can imagine that pipe would probably cost $1000 to fab up because of the time it would take to build.

The transmission also needs work - or better yet replaced completely. A softer clutch would be nice as well.

This is why a Type-R swap is looking mighty tempting, $4000 for the entire package + install + exhaust would be a nice easy transformation, would it be as fun? Probably not, but I think the result would be satisfying.

mvang001

· #8 · Sep 20, 2011

MrMoe said:
After reading Meltman's thread I am honestly starting to believe that there is no such thing as a AC compatible turbo kit. Or a at least one where you do not have to worry about problems over heating.

Hmm, maybe you haven't seen my set up yet. LOL. Running A/C daily. Also, the type r swap will be fun if you hadn't done boost yet, once you go boost, its hard to turn back to N/A. Also, N/A has too many power limitations versus Forced Induction.

TheAlpha

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 28, 2011

So I've been looking into fixing my headlight situation, my pair of Anzos are decent, but I still wish I had the money at the time to grab a pair of new OEM's. If I see a pair of used ones in good condition I might jump on them, but even then I'd be worried about a condensation problem. Something that was a problem for my old pair before the deer incident. Currently I have a set of fogs to help compensate for the lack of light output. They work, but because they are technically not road legal here in VA I have to remove them every year for the inspection. They also look....cheap, and one must be replaced almost every year.

So I've been looking at the Raybrig OEM fog light kit which will run me a little over $200:

However I'm uncertain if these are road legal because I do not see any DOT numbers and such on them that I can make out. I mean, they should be because they are OEM, but because they are JDM they are not compliant with US standards, correct? So will I still have to remove them before inspections? Plus, I'm unsure if they are bright enough, or even too bright so that I'll get pulled over if I pass a cop at night. Has anyone seen or own these and care to share some info?

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johnnymass

· #10 · Nov 28, 2011

Instead of spending the 200$ on the raybrigs, I'm sure you can find a set of used headlights that need some tlc and still have enough left over for some hids (if you don't already have them).

dhabell

· #11 · Nov 28, 2011

johnnymass said:
Instead of spending the 200$ on the raybrigs, I'm sure you can find a set of used headlights that need some tlc and still have enough left over for some hids (if you don't already have them).

I agree with j.mass. get some DDM 55w 5000k HIDs. only 65$ shipped, with lifetime warranty. its by far my favorite mod. makes a 1000% difference.

TheAlpha

Discussion Starter · #12 · Nov 29, 2011

dhabell said:
I agree with j.mass. get some DDM 55w 5000k HIDs. only 65$ shipped, with lifetime warranty. its by far my favorite mod. makes a 1000% difference.

Good points, do I need to make any mods to the headlights themselves to install the HIDs? Some of the installs I've seen looked rather extensive.

Now that I think of it I might know someone with a decent pair of stocks from a 00, might look into that.

johnnymass

· #13 · Nov 29, 2011

Like my install???

For a plug and play you don't need to make any mods. Itll connect up just like any other bulb, it'll just have a ballast.

Mine was tedious because I did I retro fit. That's a whole different story and makes it 1000000% better

TheAlpha

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 29, 2011

johnnymass said:
Like my install???

For a plug and play you don't need to make any mods. Itll connect up just like any other bulb, it'll just have a ballast.

Mine was tedious because I did I retro fit. That's a whole different story and makes it 1000000% better

I bet, not sure if I could retrofit my Anzo's, but if I could, I'd probably be open to it - if it guaranteed excellent light output with the low beams. You only replace the low beams correct? Do the high beams remain untouched?

johnnymass

· #15 · Nov 29, 2011

Essentially, yes. They remain untouched. The trick is to get the projector aligned in the same orientation compared to the high beam. But if it's off alittle (as mine always are) it's not the end of the world. The retro should and will be bright enough to where you won't need them

You can also go the Bixenon route and do away with the stick high beams in general. Lot easier but just as time consuming

TheAlpha

Discussion Starter · #16 · Nov 29, 2011

Here is what I have:

Looking at the write-ups below I'm still uncertain if it would work, it almost looks like the headlights are made of 3 major pieces, the lens, the black center housing holding the halos, and the main housing. As long as the center housing doesn't directly interfere with the new HID projector it may be possible. It also looks like the lens is held on by clips, which may make dissembly fairly easy, while the center housing is held by (6?) small screws.

References:

HID Retrofit Installation - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2936151

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Xeon

· #17 · Nov 29, 2011

mvang001 said:
once you go boost, its hard to turn back to N/A. Also, N/A has too many power limitations versus Forced Induction.

So true, I also started with a ls with a greddy turbo. Now its a GSR built bottom end with a synapse ac kit with a gt3076r and getting tuned hopefully next week. Do what Dustin96LS suggest and you shouldn't have problems with overheating. About keeping the exhaust quiet you should look into the apexi WS unirvesal turbo muffler paired with a vibrant ultra quiet resonator, I have this setup and I think it's almost as quiet as a greddy sp 2 or even more. Then just paint the apexi flat black and you shouldn't attrack too much attention.

andrew1320

· #18 · Nov 29, 2011

I'm running a similar setup as you are only that I'm keeping my A/C. It was kind of annoying when putting the turbo kit together since the A/C takes up so much space. I'm not going to regret keeping A/C when those HOT NC summer days come!

I'm almost done with my turbo build, just some few things here and there and hopefully I can get it tuned sometime next week.

TheAlpha

Discussion Starter · #19 · Nov 29, 2011

While many would consider going from a turbo-LS to a N/A Type R a bit of a downgrade you must consider one of my primary reasons for this conversion, reliability. While I haven't had many reliability issues with my teg since I turbo'd her, please keep in mind I will start laying on the miles next year. Over 100 miles every business day! Currently my DD is a 2009 Civic which will be sold next year... While I could build an ultra reliable turbo Integra complete with A/C, the cost just for the kit and custom exhaust and tune would probably easily top $5k-$6k, and that doesn't even include throwing in a new transmission. So the total cost of the build for just new engine components could cost upwards of 9k when all said and done...and I'd still have an LS with 132k miles. Also remember I'd have to replace the synthetic oil every 1.5 months on a turbo'd engine (3k mi) which would cost ~$400 year. Not to mention the suspension upgrade I'd like to make.

On the other hand a JDM Type R swap should come in at around 5k including installation costs, and I'd have a motor with only ~30k miles on it and a new transmission with an LSD. While it wouldn't be as fast as my previous setup, it'll still be very quick (Much faster than my 09 Civic haha) and will have a smoother power curve which will be fun in the twisty's.

See my logic? Please keep the opinions coming! I have a very open mind for suggestions, that's one the the main reasons I created this thread.

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LightningTeg

· #20 · Nov 29, 2011

Yeah but do you want to have to worry about keeping around an R?

1 - 20 of 106 Posts