Hello, I put my air fuel gauge in my car and it is hooked up correctly, but wont move off of rich, even when i stop it is there on rich, if i look close i can see it going back and forth but it is hard to see, if anyone has had this problem or may know what it is, please let me know, i got an idea but i would like some input if anyone has had the problem, thanx for your time
Air/fuel gauge not working properly
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did you search before you post? they have a few topics about it i think
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do a search to ensure you are hooked up on the right wire... also note it will read rich when your car is first started as the engine runs rich at this time.
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yeah mines been acting werid too, it stays red and when i gun it, it hits yellow, but never green, it used to work right..maybee the humid day?
check the wires again then first off when you start ur car the sensor needs to heat up then ecu will adjust a/f ratio whenever the sensor reached certain temp maybe ur sensor is broke check the polarity check if u wired backlight wires to power wires instead
ask to replace the gauge and see if its broken
or it might be just ur af is not right how many mpg's u get out of ur car?
in helms manual theres a chart that shows different conditions of spark plugs that tells u why and 2 of them from runnin too reach or too lean u can probably find it online
ask to replace the gauge and see if its broken
or it might be just ur af is not right how many mpg's u get out of ur car?
in helms manual theres a chart that shows different conditions of spark plugs that tells u why and 2 of them from runnin too reach or too lean u can probably find it online
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Guys- I hope you're not all talking about narrowband air/fuel gauges- i.e. the ones from autometer for like $50...all those things do is dance around...they are completely useless- not accurate at all.
If you want a real air/fuel reading, you'll need to spend at least $300 and get a wideband uego. For example the AEM unit with the gauge or the PLX unit with digital readout or gauge...or even adapter board for use with narrowband gauges. Widebands operate on a 0-5 volt range and give lambda readings...or actual air/fuel ratio.
If you want a real air/fuel reading, you'll need to spend at least $300 and get a wideband uego. For example the AEM unit with the gauge or the PLX unit with digital readout or gauge...or even adapter board for use with narrowband gauges. Widebands operate on a 0-5 volt range and give lambda readings...or actual air/fuel ratio.
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The widebands are completely different oxygen sensors to begin with. Those $50 gauges are simply voltmeters with a 0-1v range hooked up to LED's. They are a waste of money.
The real Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensors are expensive, and they also require very complicated controllers and special electronics just for them to operate. They are VERY VERY sensitive to ANYTHING.
Read this.
And do a search for "wideband"
The real Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensors are expensive, and they also require very complicated controllers and special electronics just for them to operate. They are VERY VERY sensitive to ANYTHING.
Read this.
And do a search for "wideband"
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hey guys.. i just installed my a/f gauge and it looks like the reading stays on rich.. when i tried to disconnect my wire that goes to my ecu still reading rich even though the wire is disconnected.. i tried both of the red/white wire on my ecu and nothing happened.... any idea wha'ts going on? thanks
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Wideband or narrowband?chezta_b20vtec on Dec/07/07 said:
You hooked it to the heated O2 sensor pinout on the ECU?
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i'm not sure.. how can i tell if my gauge is narrow or wideband.. your talkin about the gauge though right? or you mean the sensor..?? i have a high flow cat and it looks like there's no slot fot o2 sensor..thanks.
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Well, the gauge and sensor should both technically be wideband.chezta_b20vtec on Dec/07/07 said:
If you just picked up an A/F gauge, and hooked it up to the stock O2 wire, then it is just a narrowband gauge, as it uses a small voltage range, and can't really tell you just how rich, or just how lean you are running. The gauge needle will bounce all around, especially if you tap the throttle.
With a wideband setup, you would put a separate (or straight replacement, depending on model) wideband O2 sensor into your exhaust. Then, your gauge would also need to be specifically for wideband use to read the much larger, and more accurate, voltage from the WBO2 sensor.
Do you know what model of gauge you have? Does it have any markings on it? Did you just tap into the O2 wire on the ECU, or did you install a wideband O2 sensor?
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i see.. i have a autometer sport-comp gauge. i didnt change my sensor or anythhing, i just wire tap it on my ecu according to this instruction..TI Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Install G3.. but bro, my question is why is it that i only see 1 bar light on, on my gauge everytime i turn my car on? how can i tell if my sensor or my gauge is wideband or narrowband? (visually) do i have to change my sensor or is there anyway i can tap my gauge directly to the sensor itself?? thanks
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chezta_b20vtec on Dec/08/07 said:
If all it does is show lights, and is not an actual gauge or digital readout of numbers, then it is most likely a narrowband. It's also going to be a narrowband gauge if you only tied it into the stock O2 sensor signal without using an actual wideband O2 sensor in the exhaust.
The way you have it wired in now, it is basically tied directly into the stock O2 sensor wire. Narrowband gauges are VERY, VERY inaccurate, and will not show you much of anything. They dance around and are fairly worthless.
If you want to fork out the money to get an precise reading, you need to buy a wideband O2 sensor and a wideband O2 gauge. Look up systems like the PLX-M300 or the AEM UEGO. You will have to either put an extra bung into your exhaust and install a separate wideband O2 sensor, or it will be designed to directly replace the stock O2 sensor, depending on model. Then your wideband O2 gauge will wire directly to the wideband O2 sensor in the exhaust, instead of traveling to the ECU like the narrowband does.
Read this. Hopefully it will help you understand how narrowband gauges don't properly do their job.
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