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This article is intended to help those who have no ignition and are throwing no error codes.


Tools required

- Phillips Screwdriver
- Digital Multi-Meter
- 12-Volt Light Probe
- A friend

Start by removing the 3 rotor cap screws:



Next, we remove the rotor. Do this by first removing the Phillips screw, then wedge a couple of flathead screwdrivers behind and pull.

Next, pull off the dust shield to expose the coil and ICM.





Test the primary coil by first setting the multi-meter to ohms:



Then measure the resistance between the two screw terminals:



The resistance should fall between 0.6 and 0.8 ohms for the primary coil.

Next is to measure the secondary coil resistance:


The resistance should fall between 12.8K and 19.2K ohms for the secondary coil.
Next we will test the input signal to the ICM

To do this, first PUT THE COIL BACK IN and attach the wires to the screw terminals, then disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN and BLU spade connectors from the ICM.



Set the multi-meter to Volts DC (VDC)



Now, turn on the ignition to position 2 (don’t start the car) and measure the following:
- Between BLK/YEL and GND, there should be +12V
- Between WHT/BLU and GND, there should be +12V

Finally we test the ICM (Igniter module).

Before testing, reconnect the wires to the ICM that you removed while testing the input signal.
To test the ICM, take the 12V light probe and attach the alligator clip to the positive battery terminal:



Now, put the probe tip into the negative coil screw and have a friend crank the engine:



Removing the Coil and ICM





If none of these tests fail and you are certain you still do not have spark, it is possible that the coil is internally grounded. To test for this, Place one meter probe on one terminal and the other to a chassis ground. Test the second terminal as well. You should NOT get a reading. The meter should stay peaked and say 0L or indicate that the resistance is above its measurement ability.
 

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loak211;bt475 said:
If I have no resistance at the primary coil does that mean my coil is bad? Or goingout/weak ?
What do you mean "no Resistance" ? Is the multimeter reading Zero Ohms or does it read over 15 KOhms ? If your primary reads Zero I would check the Multimeter settings to go down to the lowest scale possible. Then take the reading as .6 to 1 Ohm is very low resistance but that is what you want to see - that reading would be GOOD ! If the meter reads over 15K or Infinite Resistance the primary coil is open or in other words BAD !
 

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I will be honest - I don't understand this (past being familiar with basics of Ohm's Law/transformers) and am just following directions. Car died on highway and will not start. All tests pass except the final one:

If none of these tests fail and you are certain you still do not have spark, it is possible that the coil is internally grounded. To test for this, Place one meter probe on one terminal and the other to a chassis ground. Test the second terminal as well. You should NOT get a reading. The meter should stay peaked and say 0L or indicate that the resistance is above its measurement ability.
I assume, the terminals here refer to the ignition coil terminals pictured here:
http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC1978-D3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/meltman/timing/07.jpg

With that said, I set the MM to 200k Ohms range, and then put the negative of the MM to the negative terminal and ground the positive of the MM on the valve cover gasket. In doing this, I get a reading of between 65.0 and 86.0. If I touch the positive to the positive and ground the negative (which makes no sense to me), I get the same resistance.

I 100% have spark, but have no idea how strong it is or whether it's on time.

What can I conclude from this? Is this internal grounding problem fixed by replacing the coil? Is it contradictory that I have spark but this test fails?

Thanks for any help, and sorry for a lack of understanding of the fundamentals.

Oh, and thank you very much for the great write-up.
 

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Ok I passed everything until tdc power test (white and blue). I first tested off the diz and nada so I checked off of the ecu and again nada. I can't figure out why my ecu isn't sending anything to it. Any ideas? And yes my ecu is good as far as I can tell, cel comes on n goes off. Also used it to test before n it'll let you access codes. I'm stumped anyone has insight?
 

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Ok I've got a quick question I know this thread is old, when I test the IC to ground it isn't specified if I need to have the wires connected or disconnected? If they are when I test the coil to ground I will definitly get a result. So test it to ground with no wires connected?
 

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Ok, So I failed the second test, what does this mean I need to do from here forward? I havent had a a chance to pick up a 12V test light to try the third. I passed the first.

Should I just replace the ICM just because the input signal is bad? or is something else wrong?
 
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