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Discussion Starter #1
About three or so times, I've noticed my ABS light come on for a second and then shut off. My brakes work normally and the ABS will kick in just fine. The past times, the engine was idling, so I figured that maybe the idle just got a little too low (I need to adjust it; it's been around 500-600 rpm since I installed my header and exhaust). But the most recent occurance was different...

It did it yesterday as I was driving down a very bumpy dirt road. The interesting thing about that was that my V1 did it's power-on "ritual" at the exact same second, so it must have temporarily lost power. My stereo was on at the time but didn't lose power, and the engine seemed to be running just fine. Any ideas?

I know the ground on my battery is a little loose (the ground terminal is slightly smaller than stock and I cant make the connector any tighter), but I would think that if that got disconnected, the alternator would still be powering everything.
 

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How many miles are on your Integra? I know that the ABS sensors (1 per wheel) are notorious for going bad and or becoming unreliable after 100K miles.
Also, you need to be grounded. You need a loop. If you can't tighten it up, you might want to have your grandmother do it (dude, what's wrong with you - can't you turn your own wrenches?)

As for your low idle, you may want to reset your ECU. By using the beloved search function, you should be able to find a few articles about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
81k miles on my Teg. The ABS light does not stay on, it'll just flash once in a blue moon. iirc, all of the times except for the last, the engine was idling. I have been thinking that the rpms just got too low and the ABS computer didn't like that or something. Anyone think that can/can't happen? I don't remember... does the ABS light come on for a little bit when then key is at the ignition position but the engine isn't running? I'd go check right now, but it's thunderstorming at the moment. Or, if the wheel speed sensors were quite a bit different, would that make it flash the ABS light until they got back to normal? Is there any way I could read the last ABS code that occured, even though the light isn't currently on?

The connector for the battery's ground terminal is tightened as much as possible, but it's still a little loose. Like I said, the ground terminal on the new battery is a little smaller than stock. The stock connector simply doesn't go quite that small, so it's just not possible to tighten it down enough without breaking it. It's not falling off or anything, but I can pull it completely off the terminal by hand. The road I was on yesterday was horribly bumpy, so that *might* have been enough to temporarily break or weaken the connection with the battery. I've been driving around with the battery like that for the past 6 months with no problem though. I'm wondering if there's another electrical connection that might tend to loosen up after enough bumps. Any ideas?

I expect that the alternator and battery are in parallel, so the battery getting disconnected wouldn't be a problem as long as the alternator can supply enough power. Anybody familiar with this particular circuit want to shed some light on it for me?

And, resetting the ECU is a joke... I've done it many times and it has NEVER done anything noticable. The idle got slightly lower when I installed my intake, then even lower when I installed my header and exhaust. Everyone says "Reset the ECU! Reset the ECU!", but that just doesn't work for me. I'll bet that I just need to actually adjust the idle.
 
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