[opeth13]

UPDATE AGAIN: I've added pictures below, the pics weren't working before and what good is an alignment thread without any specs?

UPDATE: I changed the title, to those who haven't read the post, this originally started as a "what alignment specs should I get" post.

I'm getting my car aligned tomorrow. I have H&R race springs, proper shocks and front/rear camber kits. I've had a couple of alignments within the past 6 months, and I've been unhappy with them, so I am changing shops. I want some fairly aggessive alignment specs for street use. Currently I have less than 1 degree camber both front and rear, and my toe settings are within factory spec. I want something a bit more aggressive. I'm going to run 1.5 to 1.8 degrees camber up front, and 1.0 to 1.5 degress in the rear. I want better turn in than I have now, but as it is my alignment specs are out of whack right now because the shop that installed my skunk2 control arms installed them incorrectly and my caster varied from left to right, although caster should not be adjustable and should be identical left to right. What toe settings should I run front and rear? I've searched the forums and the amount of info was a bit too broad and overwhelming. I want better turn in and rotation. I have upgraded rear swaybar, shock/springs, and some chassis stiffening. Any advice will be appreciated.

 

[jojo]

1.6 in front and no more than .6 in the rear.
Toe should be set at 1/32" TOE IN on each side.
Caster=stock.
This is a great street set up. If you want more or less understeer...add or subtract from the rear camber.

 

[opeth13]

thanks for the reply dude, but I already got an alignment (similar to your specs actually

), youre in the ST sway thread also! I'll post scans of my alignment specs later tonight, kinda in a rush right now. You wouldn't belive what my previous "professionally aligned" settings were.

 

[Integra15lb]

-2 up front -1.3 rear be ready to catch that ass whenn it comes around. been running that since last summer and my tires still look good. toe is stock
*edit* i should add that while that is a killer setup, straightline performance is slightly affected,but is glued in turns I also have the upgraded rear bar and when i put it on there my car became very very very tailhappy wich is not always fun when theres no apex around,and i was thinking of going with something a little less agressive like you said above.

 

[Greg]

Minor rear toe out would help bring the end around as well. It will chew up your tires relatively quickly, but it will be agressive. If you do go with the rear toe, leave you camber settings the way you mention them in your post.

Otherwise, make rear camber ~1 degree less (or more depending on how you want to look at negative numbers) example: -1.8 in front, -.8 in the back.

As for better turn in, I would hold off on the alignment, then remove the upper control arms in front, and swap sides on them. This will give you more caster, which will give more negative camber when turning only, and give you a sharper initial turn-in.

 

[SilvaTeg]

As for better turn in, I would hold off on the alignment, then remove the upper control arms in front, and swap sides on them. This will give you more caster, which will give more negative camber when turning only, and give you a sharper initial turn-in.

Any chance of explaining this a little bit more in depth? i'm not sure what you mean by swapping sides on them?

 

[StyleTEG]

The upper control arms are offset slightly, so swapping them (passanger side control arm to drivers side) will cause a slight increase along the steering axis. This is called caster.

Swapping mine gave me 3 degree's of postitive caster.

1/16 total toe OUT, can increase oversteer and cornering force. I am in the middle of writing an article about toe, should explain a little more.

 

[opeth13]

here we go boys and girls:

BEFORE:

AFTER:

I must say that my car feels friggin incredible now and I'm actaully enjoying driving it and it feels more or less complete. I look forward to driving the car now and I am anxious to get behind the wheel and go somewhere, anywhere, just to enjoy the teg!!! I can't believe how insanely off my alignment was originally, this is after having it aligned twice by an alignment shop that screwed up my entire suspension install, but if it wasn't for them, I would've never undertaken doing the suspension install myself and would have missed out on a great and priceless experience. It was depressing driving my car before this final amzing alignment, you dont even know how strong my finger muscles are from holding the wheel countersteered to go straight. Don't even mention bump steer, a bump would be like a 100 mph gust of wind hit my car from the side. Now, its effortless, and the steering wheel feels a bit heavy, sort of like a bimmer, which I don't mind at all. The grip is captain insano, you should see the wear on the outside of my tires because of the retarded (sorry about the choice of word) previous camber/alignment settings. Now, there is no more skidding when I go into and through a turn, it sticks like glue. amazing, steering response is much improved and consistent left to right which was a big issue before. A good alignment goes a lllllllllllloooooooooooooooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnngggggggg way, believe me. The alignment was $95, the alignment tech talked to me the whole time and fulfilled my requests. My castor was off by a lot left to right, he improved it to where he said the difference is pretty negligable. Apparantly, if you look at my alignment sheets, my rear camber was stuck at nearly 0 degress on the rear left, while the rear right was at -.7 and my spc camber kit 3/4 deg adjustable was set the full negative. He said the stock peice would give me a good degree to a bit over a degree, too bad the previous alignment shop had thrown them away. The guy dug up a rear upper control arm for me, unbolted my left side one with the spc kit pressed in, replaced it with the stock one, and viola, nearly a degree of negative camber left and right (well, not too close to a degree, but lightyears better than 0). Also, he said toe out in the rear, so I said ok. They charged me $20 for the stock used control arm, its like $50 new from acuraparts247.com, so I was like cool. Sorry about the rambling and poor english, I am just getting my thoughts out as fast as they come. total was $95 plus $20, so $115, top notch alignment, Motorsport Techniques, nice guys, Hayward, CA, 510-783-8383, they got my vote.

Any thoughts? Check out my ST sway feedback post, I'm going to update with some additional thoughts!

 

[96dc2]

I just got mine aligned at Firestone. I bought the lifetime alignment for $149.

 

[opeth13]

What good is an alignment post without pics? I've updated the thread with working pics. Any thoughts?

 

[jojo]

Glad things turned out so well!