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Discussion Starter #1
A brief intro to my build until I get pictures. It has a 60 trim, Ram RFD fab manifold, Edelbrock fmic, non vtec b20, GE block guard, P8R head 33mm intake valves duel wastegate & duel map switch(4 or 14psi) and all the typical supporting mods, pump, breather box & battery relocation, DSM 450's. As everyone knows the B20 sleeves are weak. However, in the coming months I will be throwing in BC stage II cams, springs & retainers and a smaller hot side to hopefully achive full boost by 4k. After this upcoming season I will be tearing down the B20 and doing a piston, rod, oil pump, etc build. I am not comfortable with revving it past 7,200 due to the weak sleaves but I do not want to loose the low end tq that the B20 gives you. I'm not after any crazy power, 350 is plenty enough for what the function of the car is. In the past, before everyone says I'm wasting time I was making 24 psi with the 60 trim and it lasted about 40 4th gear pulls on a unopened low comp. b20 other than a head pull to put a GE block guard in. And yes it was still pulling, put over 20 cars in a one gear race on a stock 15' WRX and barley had traction till halfway though 3rd gear with the tires listed later. The failure was bent con rods, no rod bearing failure, no ring land failure or melted piston, and no cracked sleeve. Had another set of stock LS rods and rebuilt the motor and its back in the car with no issues ever since. Turned down the boost after that amazing experience until I figure out the direction I want to go. Down the road I do plan on adding flex, not even to crank up my ignition tables to make more tq, just for the reliably sake on the track even considering it before this season and a injector swap to support it. I'm aware that putting flex with the stock rods isn't going to give me more leadway as far as bending, but will help prevent pinging which is what I belive caused my rods to slowly bend over a 3 month period, before I was 24psi I was 17 for a good while without a hicup or drop in compression. Shortly after cranking it up to 24psi I noticed my compression was dropping 3-4psi a cylinder every time I parked the car(because the stroke was changing from slight bend in the rods). I'm aware I was asking for trouble and didn't care and it was more of a experiment of what would everyone claims on here happens, was true. I guess not, no cracked sleeve. Most setups at this point have vtec and a high rev limit, which brings on that issue.

Now on to my current predicament,
I'm currently in the process of building a B series transmission since I have been though 3 in the last two years. I have several questions regarding swapping in a built higher ratio gear set and and a lower final drive. Anyone with some actual experience going to this level to come up with my top speed in each gear and comparing it to a stock LS transmission. I just would like to chat over PM for a few minutes to see if this is the direction I want to take. Right now I have a LS trans and I'm looking at buying a M factory 4.01 FD, M factory LSD, an ITR B16 Pro series gearset, upgraded detent springs, and a syncro tech syncro kit. Car is not for drag it's for the track(No autoX). After so much seat time, I cannot stand being between gears anymore. Going from a long geared 5 speed (06 WRX 3.7 FD) at the same event to the short (ik its the longest but its still sucks) LS trans. Ideally I would like to be able to do 0-60 in one shift with a 7,200RPM rev limit. I also am running 215-45-16 tires. Wheels are +35 16x7 2 degrees of camber falkon azenis' tires, lowered almost 3 inches. I am not opposed to getting a taller tire to make this happen and run a reverse staggered setup. The functionally as far as rub and turning cannot be affected. Currently the fenders are rolled and pulled between 1/4 and 1/2 inch. I have considered a 225-50-16 however with an extra 1.8 inches over the 215-45-16 I do not see it being possible unless I bang in the frame on the rear of the fender arch and even then its questionable. Nvm if it will negatively impact the handling. I have also had a b16 transmission in the car at one point and driven a full b16b CTR N/A w/ 9.4K rev limit swap with a ITR transmission, and I have zero interest in feeling like I'm driving a 6 speed with a missing 6th gear. Unless you have hot lapped on the track with a similar setup I'm not interested in hearing how you were able to rev to 8k on the street once in a blue moon lol.

I'll be taking pictures and go in more detail about the car soon.
Thanks an advance to whoever made it all the way though and is will to chime in!
 
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