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98 RS bad cold idle and random misfire

301 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  98RSGuy
This is an odd one. I'll explain it as best I can, but the whole situation doesn't make a lot of sense to me so it might not to you either. :p

Car sat for a year or so. Currently it misfires on cold idle, particularly moving at low speed when engaging the clutch. Once it warms up it's fine other than a very occasional small pop. Nothing regular enough that you could troubleshoot by pulling plugs or injectors. CEL is lit and I have a variety of P030X codes.

No vacuum leaks, plugs are all light gray/brown, no cracks in the plug leads. Valve clearance is good. I tried cleaning the minimal carbon off the cap and rotor but that didn't change anything. Fuel pump and filter have both been changed in the last few years, and this car sees only a few thousand miles a year anyway.

That being said, there is a high pitched sound coming from the fuel pump. Just barely audible at idle and not during normal driving. When I depressurized the system to check the pump I noticed the car wouldn't run at all with the pump disconnected when normally you'll have 10-15 seconds with the remaining pressure. Additionally the feed line backfed a lot of gas when I disconnected it from the pump. I've been told a bad pump will do this, where it will not maintain pressure and allow fuel to leak back on the feed line, and that makes sense, except for one thing: the car runs fine when I drive it hard. It accelerates normally and gets right to redline with no issue. Is it possible the pump has bad low speed pressure but it's OK at high speed? Does the pump pump faster relative to engine speed or is it constant?
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The pump does its job no matter the engine speed. You need to check & verify basic fuel pressure first.

You said, "valve clearance is good". What does "good" mean? What were your measurements?

You have P030X codes - Start there. Those are mis-fire codes, and it's more common to find ignition related issues with mis-firing than fuel. Not that a fuel issue can't cause them, but ignition related issues are more common - such as the ICM & coil.
In spec. As in .004 on intake and .007 on exhaust. I have a cap, rotor, and wires coming just for funsies today, so we will see. I'm just thinking ahead because the fuel consumption has been getting steadily worse for a while. The injectors have been cleaned and tested so they should be OK.

The thing that makes me thing it's probably not the ICM or coil is the fact that it gets better when hot, and generally electronics get worse with heat.
Fuel consumption will increase when the MIL light is on. When a DTC is stored, the ECU goes into "limp" mode. It dumps a ton of fuel, limits rev's, etc. It's to help save the engine when an issue arises.
For sure, but it's been poor for a while well before this. Like 18-20 city driving like a grampa.

Anyway we'll look into fuel pressure. Mostly I was wondering if the pump was variable.
That being said, there is a high pitched sound coming from the fuel pump. Just barely audible at idle and not during normal driving. When I depressurized the system to check the pump I noticed the car wouldn't run at all with the pump disconnected when normally you'll have 10-15 seconds with the remaining pressure. Additionally the feed line backfed a lot of gas when I disconnected it from the pump.
You just described a completely normal fuel pump.

For a fuel pump, you really need to check both pressure and flow, but since we have a return-style system, just plumb yourself a pressure gauge into the high side of the intake and verify pressure. That said, it is a rare occasion with this style of fuel system that you can run to high RPM WOT but not idle.

It might be worth your while to check the coolant temperature sensor. The best way is to do it via an OBD scanner so that you know what the computer sees. Testing the sensor off the car doesn't tell you jack about what the ECU sees if there's an electrical problem.

You could also have an obstructed injector, which yes, could still allow the engine to run "fine" at high load.
Interesting. Coolant temp is fine, sits at 190ish once it has warmed up. Looking at fuel trims today I noticed long term sits around +8% at idle. From what I'm reading that isn't necessarily a problem but if the engine is constantly commanding more fuel because of a lean condition that WOULD square with the fuel consumption, which as I stated has been going for a while.

Is there a decent kit for a fuel gauge? Something that doesn't involve cutting the line if possible, although most of the tees I've seen look like you need to insert them in the line between the fuel filter and and input on the rail.
Found one that just threads into the top of the fuel filter. If anyone else was wondering https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIKCG2/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
getting younger all the time 🙃 it did smell a bit of paint thinner when I opened the tank. I'd say the oldest fuel was about a year but I've already cycled about a tank's worth so we should be through that now or very shortly.

I ran about a half can of Seafoam through it yesterday and ran the piss out of it. Didn't hurt, and it returned about 22 MPG despite a lot of idling, a CEL, and a lot of redlining. I suspect some of the bad fuel mileage before it got put up was down to rickety axles and sticky brakes, both of which have been replaced.

The long term fuel trim came down some too, it was +8% and now it's hovering between +5-6%. O2 sensor finally reads ready in torque, although the cat and evap still show incomplete. No codes related to that though. Probably needs some more highway miles to try and cycle the evap.
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Another new fuel filter wouldn't hurt, especially after running the bad fuel through it.
Agreed, it's sitting in my garage waiting on the other fuel bits to show up as we speak :D
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So just so the thread has SOME closure (and isn't yet another orphaned search result), the car is very happy now. I can't be sure of what the fix was, but it probably got through the last of the old gas. IIRC I had put E0 in and that may have taken on some water. Also got the fuel filter swapped and that for sure didn't hurt. The catalyst and evap are finally showing "complete" in diagnostics, and the downstream O2 is reading steady again. Thanks for all of the help!
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