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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know where I can purchase a a/c compressor clutch relay for my 96 integra.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can’t find the correct four pin relay at any auto store I checked, however I did manage to find one on amazon
 

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If I jump the the compressor clutch connector that plugs into the relay the compressor comes on but the rpm decreases significantly and when I change the relay the compressor does not come on at all
 

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Are you sure there's refrigerant in the system?

What is the actual problem? You haven't stated that as of yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The problem is that the fan blows hot air... the compressor clutch is not engaging whenever I turn the ac on. I knw the compressor is good bc I jumped it With a battery charger and it engaged.. however with the car running and the ac on, I’m not getting 12v to the compressor, I figured it might be a bad compressor clutch relay because when I jumped it from the relay connector the compressor came on, I put my gage on it and the pressure was good. I changed the relay and the compressor still would not come on. So my theory is that something is preventing the relay from closing to supply the 12v to power the compressor clutch probably a ground somewhere.
 

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What do you mean the pressure was good? Was it within factory spec?

What about the pressure switch itself? A faulty switch (if the pressure is indeed good) would cause the compressor to not engage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The pressure was at factory spec, I weighed it in. I jumped the pressure switch and the compressor still wouldn’t run, but the condenser and the radiator fan came on.. isn’t the ecu supposed to send the ground to close the compressor clutch relay once you push the ac button?
 

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The pressure was at factory spec, I weighed it in. I jumped the pressure switch and the compressor still wouldn’t run, but the condenser and the radiator fan came on.. isn’t the ecu supposed to send the ground to close the compressor clutch relay once you push the ac button?
Without reviewing the wiring schematic, I honestly do not know if the ECU closes the ground circuit. I would think it would, rather than sending 12V, but I cannot confirm
 

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Any suggestions??
You'll want to diagnose the electrical wires starting at the A/C compressor and working your way forwards and backwards. See the attached electrical diagram...
105972

You'll also want to check your A/C manifold pressures. Too high or too low will trigger the A/C pressure switch to open, breaking the current and forcing a safety shutdown. FYI, overriding the safety shutdown via 12 VDC introduction at the compressor for extended periods will destroy the compressor. It's ok to test very breifly, but do not leave it running.

Come back and let us know what you found.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You'll want to diagnose the electrical wires starting at the A/C compressor and working your way forwards and backwards. See the attached electrical diagram...
View attachment 105972
You'll also want to check your A/C manifold pressures. Too high or too low will trigger the A/C pressure switch to open, breaking the current and forcing a safety shutdown. FYI, overriding the safety shutdown via 12 VDC introduction at the compressor for extended periods will destroy the compressor. It's ok to test very breifly, but do not leave it running.

Come back and let us know what you found.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you for the diagram.. with all the checks and tests that I have done I’m very confident that The lack of Ground that closes the relay is the issue. How do you test the pressure pressure switch and also how do you remove it.
 

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Thank you for the diagram.. with all the checks and tests that I have done I’m very confident that The lack of Ground that closes the relay is the issue. How do you test the pressure pressure switch and also how do you remove it.
You test it by using A/C R-134A manifold gauges to check your low side and high side refrigerant pressures. If they're too far off, the switch acts as a fail-safe to prevent the compressor from self-destructing. Weighing is good, but doesn't account for PAG oil in the system. Here's the technician's A/C chart. Look at pressures after you look at the part below... by the way, why did you add refrigerant that needed weighing? Did something get replaced?
105978


A cut or corroded ground should always be a suspect in an electrical lineup. You can check for continuity (Ohms) between frame of compressor and frame of car (should be 0 Ohms). Did you say you have 12 VDC between terminals 3 & ground and also 4 and ground when you unplugged the relay? Use Snippit on your computer to markup the elec diagram above with what voltages you've checked.

More pages:
105973
105974
 
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