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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
got a 94 teg, ~70k miles on the engine in it.

if youre facing the engine with the hood up, on the passenger side near the firewall, down towards the middle of the bay, there is a brown-ish sludge that accumuliates over a week or so.

QUESTIoN #1: What is the brown sludge, and what could be leaking around that area that would cause so much buildup?

my car also has an oil leak around the oil pan gasket. ive been told by a few people that i could use a silicon sealant designed for oil pans, valve seals, ect ect... to seal the oil pan.

my valve seal has a little oil around the top right corner, if youre facing the engine from the outside.

the stuff i got (but have not used) is rated to withstand heat up to 650F.

QUESTIoN #2: would it be safe to use this sealant on the oil pan, and possibly the valve seal?

FINAL QUESTIoN: what are the torque specifications for the oil pan bolts and valve seal bolts?
 

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First of all, I assume you're referring to the valve cover gasket when you say "valve seal." Just replace the gasket with an OEM gasket and use hondabond in the designated locations. The same for the oil pan, replace the gasket. You'll need a pretty sensitive torque wrench for this low of a torque setting. What I would use is a 1/4" rachet and just hand tighten them in the correct sequence. Remember, that for gaskets, tighter is not always better, so don't go cranking as hard as you can on them, which is why I recommend the 1/4" rachet.

People have tried to use the correct torque for the valve cover bolts and have broken them off. Use the 1/4" rachet here as well. You should feel it "bottom out." When you reach this, STOP TURNING!

Anyway, if you want to get technical, the valve cover bolts are 7.2 ft/lbs, and the oil pan bolts are 9 or 10 ft/lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ty for the info.

with the oil pan gasket, can i not use this silicon sealant i bought? havent opened it yet, but will return it if a gasket is better.

the guy at the store said that it will last just as long as a usual gasket, some 70+k miles. is he FoS?

the gasket = 15$, the silicon = 4$
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well. the valve cover gasket did not need replacing.

however, upon inspection, fordcourier and i (mostly him) discovered that my distributor seal gasket was shot and needed to be replaced along with the oil pan gasket.

the dist. gasket was totally stiff and the leak was pretty bad :(

now, the gasket is replaced, and the area has been cleaned. i will check it tomorrow afternoon since ive been driving it around and if the leak is present, some fluids should be present.
 

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I'm having a hard time pictureing that you are describing originally. I get the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, distributor, and silicone.

Many OEM's use silicone as the sealing agent for metal surfaces. Tpyota and Mopar uses that approach. However, I'm a firm believer that a gasket is better if it calls for one. And on tegs, it calls for one.

I have seen and heard of instances of using a silicone sealant that was so strong it took several guys prying on a prybar just to get the two halfs apart. Thats sreally not necessary if you ask me.

Use the gasket and use the silicone if you like on the designated areas if you don't have hondabond.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
looks like its mostly solved anyways. i just went out and drove my teg around some more. ran it hard for a little bit checked the hood and theres no build-up

basically, if youre facing the front of the car from the outside, when then hood is up, if you look in the top-left of the engine bay, you can see down to the ground.

in that area you can see to the ground, there are many parts and things i dont know waht they do.

anyways, in that area there was a build-up of a brownish-sludge.

when fordcourier and i traced the leak, it went back to the distributor. when he took apart the distributor, there was a nice buildup of oil and the gasket was really stiff.

both have been replaced now, and the car is not leaking oil anymore :)
 

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Yea, what the hell are you talking about, Just buy new gaskets, seals whatever.. don't use any silicone sealant bullshit.

If it didn't come with/in the vehicle than you shouldn't put it in there.

haste makes waste big guy.

I'm sure you own a rachet and the 12mm sockets, spend half hour replacing the gasket.

The brownish sludge??? lol hmph if your valve cover gasket is leaking, maybe that could be the start of your problem.

Check your rear main seal as well, make sure you get to the root of the problem.

If problem still consists, get some DYE and put it in your oil, as by direc5tions and use a black light to see the neon dye leaking and u can tell exactly where the problem is.

R&R duh
 
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