Team Integra Forums banner

62404's tuned, non-vtec & dynos compared

11K views 75 replies 39 participants last post by  andera 
#1 ·
About 3-4 weeks ago, I installed my new head with the crower 404s in them. I finally got around to getting the car dyno tuned (after installing a B16 tranny this weekend) by Dan at godspeed. Dan used to moderate at HT and SHO (now is more of a WRX shop though).

In the head itself I simply have the 404s, and the crower valvespring/retainer kit. The only other modification to the head was milling it by .018" in order to bump up the compression to roughly 9.5:1. My main goal was to keep the crank pressure as close to stock as possible (and not over-cam the engine).

The rest of the major modifications are
DC 4-2-1 POS Header
3" Shortram intake pipe, filter w/ velocity stack
2.25" comptech catback, with bottleneck removed
2.25" testpipe.
B&M FPR @ 43psi
Greddy E-manage
Cam gears were set at +1.5,+1.5 to compensate for the milling, so essentially it was like running at 0,0

The pictures are terrible right now, I hope to scan the graphs tomorrow if I can fix the company scanner. But you can see the graph in the mean time.

My final results on HP were 164.5@6503rpm



First run I ended up in the low 150's, so Dan was able to get a lot more power out of them just by playing with the ignition and fuel map. The cam timing and fuel pressure was unaltered.

For torque I ended up at 134.2 @ 5596 RPM



As you can see the torque curve is pretty choppy. Dan told me that the timing seems to be jumping around. This is probably due to at the moment I am unsure of exactly where the timing is set at stock. I am using a machined ITR crank pulley, which has a smaller diameter alternator rib and the timing marks are off. I plan to map out the marks from my stock pulley and transfer them over, and then tune again with a higher redline. As My HP curve shows it looks like there is still some room for gains as it doesn't die off at my current redline. Dan also was able to take out some timming and add more fuel and keep the same power, to keep the car safe for Track events.

As an idea of how much I gained from this, during the summer I had a baseline done on my car. The only difference was the stock cams/compression and a 2.5" CAI instead of my 3" shortram. I dynoed at 126whp.

I hope to fix my timing issues, move to a better collector, play with cam timming, and run a higher redline in the near future and retune to see if I can hit or break 170 with little more effort.

So I gained roughly 30-40whp just by bolting the head on and switching to a larger diameter intake pipe w/ tuning.

Now this is the part that made me really happy. Dan had also dynoed and tuned a modified ITR.

It had a full stand alone, 4-2-1 header, and an AEM intake.

My HP vs his HP



As you can see I make more power throughout the RPM band up until my redline.

Now my Torque vs his Torque



Even with a more aggressive cam, the low end power does not seem to be sacrificed. I have no problem daily driving the car, even with the short gearing.

My goals are to hit or be close to 200whp, daily drivable. I know lots of people seriously doubt this is possible, but I hope to prove them wrong. I see it as not happening because no one has bothered to take it that far, not that it can't be done.

B20 with proper compression, better exhaust and intake systems, a P&P head, a higher redline, I see it being doable. But there is only one way to find out.
 
See less See more
4
#3 ·
wow man excellent post...i enjoyed reading every bit of that and the pics arent that bad.. this is gonna be a nice informative post..considering im gettin my 404's and i got a big check coming up i think i will go ahead and buy them with it and save up for the retainers and spring kit. but thanks for the post.. i was always wondering how 404's were on the street because that why i was always leaning towards the 403's because i thought it would require less tuning. but i guess im headed toward the 404's since you said they are fairly streetable for daily driving..

thanks man

THIS ALSO PROVES "WHO NEEDS VTEC", just look at that dyno of itr vs style's teg? huh? what now?
 
#6 ·
Damn. That's the only word I can come up with to summarize my feelings. That is amazing. So you're still planning on dropping in a b20, upping compression, and getting a better exhaust? 200whp is very attainable if this is all on 1.8 liters. Blueteg gained 15-20 lbs. of torque throughout the whole rpm range w/his B20. A b20z mated to your head would put you at roughly 10.1:1. That is so sweet.
 
#9 ·
Amazing, I bet the car is awesome to drive. I'm glad to see that you are proving that VTEC doesn't mean everything with Integras. Sure, it can be an advantage, but with the correct setup and tuning, a B18b can be just as potent if not more, as your dyno shows us.

Now just flatten out that torque curve and you'll be all set.

Let us know how you do running the car at a track if you do. And if you can, line up with a Type R and don't forget to tell him you have just an RS.

Amazing job.
 
#10 ·
I swear you keep sneaking in parts. Every post has something new. Didn't know you were picking up a new tranny.
 
#11 ·
I offered you my old tranny man, remember?

Thanks guys, I am really happy with how it turned out. I will definetly keep everyone updated.

As some have inquired, it is VERY daily drivable. I thought that it was going to sound like a 10 second muscle car at idle, the way most people talk about them. But honestly, at 900rpm idle it feels stock inside the car. There is no lack of low end torque. I don't see anything not daily drivable about it.
 
#19 ·
So you see a huge gain with the b16 tranny?
I was thinking about going down that route, It seems my 2nd gear is on it's way out and what would be better then to swap out all gears since I'm in the casing.

Nice write up! my Boy matt will get a huge kick out of your performance numbers with the Ls.
He's been wanting to do the 404's for a while but wanted to see them done to someone elses Teg. before he dropped the money down .

So idle and street driving is still very easy with the 404's?

keep us posted.

-Jeff
 
#24 ·
Thanks Collin. With the cost of the tranny, and the cost of the e-manage, cam gears, etc, we probably are not that far off price wise. So I think you still came out with a fast car for a good cost ;)

To make sure everyone knows, the 404s are perfect for daily drivable. I felt more of an idle change when I put in motor mount inserts, than the 404s. Low end power feels better than stock.

I honestly don't know why everyone blows the idle issue way out of proportion. It idles like stock, I don't see any need to go with the 403s. I honestly wish I would have gone with the 405a's!
 
#26 ·
stay tuned folks.

on the next "Which 1 is the Fastest?" Quiz4 we will address the concept of earlier vs. later power curves in small displacement N/A engines and their effects on the acceleration curve.

I'd hate to be an unsuspecting ITR owner (with just the basic bolt-ons) who happened to get Ross as the luck of the draw opponent at the strip.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top