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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
*in and oN
*ITS IN XO
*flywheel clutch and cutting
*almost final attachments
*adding head and diy valve cover-ing
*Assembling (part of it hahaha) the block
*GOT MY **** BACK 4/29
**DAY 5 SAME PAGE VVVVV (warning oil pan will make u cring)
*DAY 4 4/20
*DAY 3.5 4/18
*day 2 4/15
*pic of first day at it 4/14
*pic of some parts
*first set of parts arive



sooo the REASoN IM REBUILDING

here we go though!!!



GOING WITH
[*]skunk2 pro 1 cams
[*]rs pistons 82mm (type r copies)
[*]eagle rods
[*]s300
[*]sri w/ velocity stack

STAYING WITH
[*]pnp head
[*]s2 pro vs and crower retainers
[*]s2 intake manifold
[*]rc 310 injectors
[*]walbro fp
[*]4-1 rmf narrow n highflow n rsr exmag
[*]gsr tranny w/ 4.785
[/list]
anything im overlooking?

i will be boring and honing, will not be sleeving. prolly go with acl bearings for main and rods. im also debating a skunk2 throttle body or even a blox 68mm


im looking to have 210 whp

shooting for a nice pull from 7000-9000 rpm (vtec engagement probably around 6200.)

d-(^_^)z
 

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If you're going to be running the Pro 1 cams I would go with the higher compression pistons.

For the reasons why you want higher compression, Search for Dynamic compression, Michael Delaney had ALOT of informative articles pertaining to this subject, choosing the proper cam etc. I HIGHLY SUGGEST you look into these articles before you continue, because with only 11:1 for the second pistons, you will end up over camming your motor with the Pro 1's. If you hope to make as much power as you can off those cams you need to get the higher compression pistons

Now what are your powergoals? I know that you want a wider power band, but the thing is with these motors the only thing close to a wide power band is to go Turbo, NA applications on our motor have a small power band, and with the parts that you're buying you're moving it farther and farther up the RPMs. The Pro 1 cams will move it up alot farther from 5500 RPM. Now if you compare the Dyno of your car stock to how it would be at the end of this build, you will more than likely have more power at 5500 than you do now, but there will be a much more dramatic increase at the higher RPMs

Now if you decide to NOT take my advice and look up these articles well then you might as well just stop now because you'll just end up legoing the rest of your car and you wont get what you're looking for in the build. You will end up spending money that you dont have to and you will not make the kind of power goals that you're looking for
 

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if your gonna go with a bigger piston bigger is always better.thats a gimme.also as im sure you know the more air comin in =more power out.this goes with the bottom end being that bigger pistons means more displacement which means more power with the right addons.if you are gonna go with 83mms i would look into gettin rid of the whole intake system and gettin some itbs.
 

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If you're going to be running the Pro 1 cams I would go with the higher compression pistons.

For the reasons why you want higher compression, Search for Dynamic compression, Michael Delaney had ALOT of informative articles pertaining to this subject, choosing the proper cam etc. I HIGHLY SUGGEST you look into these articles before you continue, because with only 11:1 for the second pistons, you will end up over camming your motor with the Pro 1's. If you hope to make as much power as you can off those cams you need to get the higher compression pistons

Now what are your powergoals? I know that you want a wider power band, but the thing is with these motors the only thing close to a wide power band is to go Turbo, NA applications on our motor have a small power band, and with the parts that you're buying you're moving it farther and farther up the RPMs. The Pro 1 cams will move it up alot farther from 5500 RPM. Now if you compare the Dyno of your car stock to how it would be at the end of this build, you will more than likely have more power at 5500 than you do now, but there will be a much more dramatic increase at the higher RPMs

Now if you decide to NOT take my advice and look up these articles well then you might as well just stop now because you'll just end up legoing the rest of your car and you wont get what you're looking for in the build. You will end up spending money that you dont have to and you will not make the kind of power goals that you're looking for
 

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carbondc2 on Feb/19/09 said:
if your gonna go with a bigger piston bigger is always better.thats a gimme.also as im sure you know the more air comin in =more power out.this goes with the bottom end being that bigger pistons means more displacement which means more power with the right addons.if you are gonna go with 83mms i would look into gettin rid of the whole intake system and gettin some itbs.

Dude where did you come up with any of that? Ok the whole bigger displacement I can understand, but some manufacturers, like Wiseco (which pistons I used) recommend that you sleeve your block once you get to a certain size, and it depends on his power goals (which we still dont know) so I would say that to bore it out an extra 1mm might not be worth it.

But Individual throttle bodies!? that set up is just going to be too much of a head ache, I mean if this was a track car then maybe I can see it being done, but if this was a track car he would be using like 12.5:1 CR instead of what hes looking at. Again we NEED to know what your goals are instead of just throwing parts at us. But ITBS is just not economical
 

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carbondc2 on Feb/19/09 said:
if your gonna go with a bigger piston bigger is always better.thats a gimme.also as im sure you know the more air comin in =more power out.this goes with the bottom end being that bigger pistons means more displacement which means more power with the right addons.if you are gonna go with 83mms i would look into gettin rid of the whole intake system and gettin some itbs.

Dude where did you come up with any of that? Ok the whole bigger displacement I can understand, but some manufacturers, like Wiseco (which pistons I used) recommend that you sleeve your block once you get to a certain size, and it depends on his power goals (which we still dont know) so I would say that to bore it out an extra 1mm might not be worth it.

But Individual throttle bodies!? that set up is just going to be too much of a head ache, I mean if this was a track car then maybe I can see it being done, but if this was a track car he would be using like 12.5:1 CR instead of what hes looking at. Again we NEED to know what your goals are instead of just throwing parts at us. But ITBS is just not economical
 

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yes, the bigger the better but got to make sure everything else is bigger too. so all the parts can work with each other to get the max power possible for each individual setup. also, you know that you will need to bore your block right? if you did sorry, because you didnt say anything about boring it. also a block guard would benefit you if you bore to 83mm because you said you want to rev over 9000rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
power goal is from 200-220 whp, depending on my set up, looks like my pro 1's are shot so im thinking maybe tuner 2's also by skunk 2 or again with another set of pro'1's. pro 1's are basically the same as the tuners just w/ a better ramp. i was just wondering mainly if i have my pro 1's would it be better having the 11.6:1 82's or 11:1 83's.

i will be reading that article when i get home as a side not, (im in class kekeke)
 

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Block guards are garbage. A sorry excuse and "short cut" for sleeving...there's no substitute.

If it were me, and i'm on stock sleeves, it'd be the 82mm 11.7 CR RS machines for sure. That extra 1mm of boring/displacement will not be that significant and like others have said 11:1 will almost leave you overcammed.

There's loads of math to go along with it if you really want to be sure (as you should). MD's articles are god sent for just these questions. Enjoy the read man.
 

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I would personally go for the RS pistons with the 11.7:1. Especially since you are considering getting higher staged cams. I like the idea of higher compression with higher octance gas personally. Plus, the less you overbore your block, the more reliable it is. I've read somewhere that B18 blocks can be bored up to 84mm without the need for sleeves. Also, if you've spent this much to bulletproof your internals, why not hit up some ITBs?

BTW, what makes ITBs to uneconomical? You can get a set of OBX ITBs for $700 shipped.

once you buy a better IM and a quality intake, with possibly a new fuel rail, your price is already climbing to nearly $500. So, why not shell out the extra $200 for ITBs? Especially since your tuning on S300...

Not to mention, ITBs look like pure sex in the engine bay.

Just remember that you should model your car for around your driving style, If you are staging up the cams with high compression pistons, you still have to consider streetability.
 
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