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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

This is my first post and I've tried everything i can think of (including searching threads online for the past 2 days, not 2 days worth of posts) so here goes.

Here is a link to a video i took of the problem I'm having.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PFIyRx76cY

I replaced both TPS and MAP recently, skunk2 intake mani w/70mm throttle body currently installed. The car has been throwing CEL P0120 alot recently even though the TPS was reading exactly as you see in the video. It is operating smoothly from 0.5v to 4.60v @ WOT. The other night i threw the code again so I decided to go back in and adjust the TPS to just above .5 to see if that solved the problem.

Well I accidently switched the TPS and MAP plugs while the car was in the ON position. I heard a weird clicking and realized my mistake. I switched the connectors back not thinking anything of it. The following morning I go to leave for work and I can't give the car any gas or it will die. The TPS is still reading normally and I checked the dizzy and wires, looks normal, no corrosion or excessive wear. I also check the ECU, no codes and I did a hard reset on it, still no luck.

I was thinking of trying a new TPS and MAP to see if i makes any difference, but i doubt it.

Any help is much appreciated.
 

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Hey guys,

This is my first post and I've tried everything i can think of (including searching threads for the past 2 days) so here goes.

Here is a link to a video i took of the problem I'm having.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PFI...ature=youtu.be

I replaced both TPS and MAP recently, skunk2 intake mani w/70mm throttle body currently installed. The car has been throwing CEL P0120 alot recently even though the TPS was reading exactly as you see in the video. It is operating smoothly from 0.5v to 4.60v @ WOT. The other night i threw the code again so I decided to go back in and adjust the TPS to just above .5 to see if that solved the problem.


Well I accidently switched the TPS and MAP plugs while the car was in the ON position. I heard a weird clicking and realized my mistake. I switched the connectors back not thinking anything of it. The following morning I go to leave for work and I can't give the car any gas or it will die. The TPS is still reading normally and I checked the dizzy and wires, looks normal, no corrosion or excessive wear. I also check the ECU, no codes and I did a hard reset on it, still no luck.

I was thinking of trying a new TPS and MAP to see if i makes any difference, but i doubt it.

Any help is much appreciated.
Welcome to the site. Just some advice: This site is built on 15+yrs of threads & posts about Integras. When searching, you need to dig a little deeper than just the "last 2 days" as similar or exact issues have more or less already been discussed.

That being said, do you have another link or URL to your video? The one you have above doesn't work, and states that the "video no longer exists".
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What i meant was I've been searching posts for the past 2 days, not just the last two days worth of posts.

I have tried a couple things suggested, checking dizzy, rechecking tps and MAP sensor function, checking for CEL codes.

This is why I'm stumped because there's no reading so far that out of adjustment. The CEL I mentioned above had been coming up intermittently before this bogging problem reared its head.

Here's the link again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PFIyRx76cY
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah I did do my due diligence in searching. This isnt my first forum rodeo. I used to run my 240s and was an active member on Zilvia for almost 10 years. So i know how important it is to search.

And it did give me some direction as to what to check, but those things i did check turned up no results. And unfortunately I've only recently switched over to the honda scene this past year so I'm still learning my way around the honda quirks. Throw a 240 at me and I can diagnose anything. :)

That being said, I decided to post and make a video of the problem because i noticed alot of people don't really do that and i wanted to be as thorough as possible. Link is working now.

I did get some feedback from a different forum and I'm going to try swapping both sensors and see if the problem goes away, maybe when i flipped the harness tails it fried one of them somehow.

thanks for the help, if anyone has any other ideas I'm more than willing to hear them!
 

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Looks like you fixed the YouTube link. Thanks!

Some questions I have. I see this is a 2000 GSR. Are you sure you're getting a P0120 code? For OBD2 systems, TPS codes are typically P0122 for low voltage, or P0123 for high voltage. Has this been converted to OBD1?

Regardless, pull your TPS connector off of your sensor. Turn your ignition on (engine off) and measure voltage between pins 1 & 3 (outer pins). Is voltage approx 5V? If no, you either have an open wire, or a bad ECU. Replace the ECU.

If you do have 5V, check for an open or short in the sensor itself. Turn your ignition off, and measure resistance between terminals 1 & 2, with the throttle fully closed. Resistance should be between .5-.9Kohms. If there isn't, you have a bad TPS sensor. If there is, check resitance between terminals 2 & 3 with the throttle closed. Is there approx 4.5Kohms? If no, replace the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE: SOLVED!!

I purchased new TPS and MAP sensors to test them. Swapped the MAP first cause it's the easiest, and VOILA! Problem completely gone! I must have fried it when I accidentally switched the plugs with the key on. :(

Thanks so much for the replies and help. Please close this thread as resolved.
 

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Looks like you fixed the YouTube link. Thanks!

Some questions I have. I see this is a 2000 GSR. Are you sure you're getting a P0120 code? For OBD2 systems, TPS codes are typically P0122 for low voltage, or P0123 for high voltage. Has this been converted to OBD1?

Regardless, pull your TPS connector off of your sensor. Turn your ignition on (engine off) and measure voltage between pins 1 & 3 (outer pins). Is voltage approx 5V? If no, you either have an open wire, or a bad ECU. Replace the ECU.

If you do have 5V, check for an open or short in the sensor itself. Turn your ignition off, and measure resistance between terminals 1 & 2, with the throttle fully closed. Resistance should be between .5-.9Kohms. If there isn't, you have a bad TPS sensor. If there is, check resitance between terminals 2 & 3 with the throttle closed. Is there approx 4.5Kohms? If no, replace the sensor.

I'm battling a similar issue with my 99 ls
Recently changed the distributor after having issues with the car constantly dying and having to sit 5-10 minutes before it would restart, only to die again within two minutes.

Anyways, the car now runs but had a lumbering idle and sputters and backfires under acceleration and the main relay rapidly clicks sounding like a ratchet. After unplugging the tps sensor, all problems go away.

Convinced the TPS was the problem I tested it and got 4.94v from the PCM and .49V-4.43v from closed to open when I back probed.

After reading this thread I then checked the tps itself and got .9 kohms and 5.29 kohms.

Can anyone offer any insight?
 
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