It's interesting to see that on Chuck's HP graph the calculated max. hp on the Toda B with a stock head is about 250 bhp....
That 250 bhp translates to about 213-220 whp max. if you go by the usual 12-15% drivetrain loss on FWD's. All theoretical you say?
In reality, this is validated by the best tuned dynos.
Indeed, the tuned Toda B packages with stock heads top out at around 210-215 whp.
So the exercise is fairly accurate.
In my experience most Toda B packages cluster around 189-210 whp. The 210-215 dyno is pretty exceptional.
The tq curves are all linear though which is a testimony to the headport and the nonVTEC cam lobe specs/layout.
They kill valvefaces, valve seats, and rockers though.
The 189-210 range (that I mentioned above in the quote) depends not only on the engine package but also on which type of dyno you are using. if you look at a typical B18C (not a B18C1) they make around 155-165 peak whp stock and perhaps with i/h/c/e, they clear 175-185 peak whp depending on the header. So really those Toda B cams, with the right sized exhaust system and injectors, and with 11.8-12.5:1 CR so as to not overcam the motor, are making 15-25 whp after tuning. The exceptionally tuned packages can pop a 30-33 whp gain but this is rare and mostly in a race motor that's going to be torn down in a week after racing because it's running crazy clearances that are so tight, the parts will wear and be junk in a ridiculously short time.
This is what you do. You go to your dyno and do a BASELINE set of 3 runs and see what you have now. Then, after a proper install (no small feat) , do an interim break-in tune (because the biggest damage can happen during break in due to you running lean) and break-in your parts . Then, do the AFTER INSTALL dyno with full fuel/ignition tune. Here's what can happen:
Case 1:So if your baseline on that particular local dyno was 160 whp and you slap on these parts ( which at best USUALLY after tuning make 25 whp) , you'll have a 185 whp car.
Case 2: But if your baseline on a particular local dyno shop was 175 whp (with no parts differences from case 1 remember), then,with an average 25 whp gain, you'll hit 200 whp.
Are these 2 cases any different IN REALITY ?
NO !!!
It's the same bloody car and parts for cryin' out loud.
1 reads 185 because of a low reading dyno and the other reads 200 whp because of high reading dyno. In reality, they both made 25 whp from the same baseline.
That's what dynos are meant to show you: RELATIVE CHANGES. They're not that accurate to give ABSOLUTE numbers. only the LOW INERTIA dynos used by industry and multimillion dollar factory racing teams are absolutely accurate. Let's GET REAL here.
If you're really hard up on showing 200 whp to impress your friends who don't know the truth or reality of the situation, then find a dyno that baselines your "BEFORE" package really high and make sure the baseline is 180-185 whp. That will guarantee that your "AFTER" package reads 200 whp or up.
Or if you're unscrupulous and want to lie, tell the dyno operator to flick the correction factors off.
But if you're interested in the truth, then all you care about is the amount of change gained.
How do you confirm or validate that you have a REAL 200 whp and not an instrument measuring device read 200?
You run it at the track. Your 1/4 mile run should confirm if the absolute dyno number is in the right speed trap range. Most 200-210 whp motors crack into 98-105 mph speed trap range. Notice I didn't give an et since traction, track conditions, gearing, aero resistance , driver skill will determine the et, not just the motor's power level and powerband. A genuine 200 whp , 2500 lb car should break into the mid-high 13's on slicks.
That's how you confirm or VALIDATE whether you got a true 200 whp.
from
Todd's (B19coupe's) motor thread , you smarter guys and gals SHOULD have learned something by now:
Quote: MichaelDelaney on Feb/15/06
Same Car, Same Parts, No Changes, 2 Different Dynos:
Dynapack
Dynojet